Chainrings With or Without Pins?
#1
Thread Starter
Peddlin' Around Detroit
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 740
Likes: 0
From: Livonia, MI
Bikes: Legend, Saluki, Trek 730
Chainrings With or Without Pins?
When using bar end shifters for a 10-speed cassette, does it matter (and why) if the chainrings are pinned to ease shifting for a double crankset?
When using bar end shifters for a 10-speed cassette, does it matter (and why) if the chainrings are pinned to ease shifting for a triple crankset?
When using bar end shifters for a 10-speed cassette, does it matter (and why) if the chainrings are pinned to ease shifting for a triple crankset?
#2
Senior Member

Joined: May 2003
Posts: 4,056
Likes: 166
From: Mountain Brook. AL
Yes it makes a difference, though only going from smaller to larger chain wheels.
So in a double the largest CW and in a triple the mid and large CW should be pinned
and relieved for best shifting. You don't realize what the pins do til you go back to
your old '70s era bike and discover what you have gained.
A study of the cassette will show all the cogs are pinned as well.
It works.
So in a double the largest CW and in a triple the mid and large CW should be pinned
and relieved for best shifting. You don't realize what the pins do til you go back to
your old '70s era bike and discover what you have gained.
A study of the cassette will show all the cogs are pinned as well.
It works.
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 9,438
Likes: 9
From: Oklahoma
Bikes: Trek 5500, Colnago C-50
I think ramps and pins are more important for indexed shifting. Friction shifting works fine without.
The ramps and pins help the chain climb from a smaller chainring to a larger chainring. With friction shifting you can over shift and then trim back but with index shifting there needs to be greater accuracy because the derailleur cannot move the chain as far laterally or back up.
Al
The ramps and pins help the chain climb from a smaller chainring to a larger chainring. With friction shifting you can over shift and then trim back but with index shifting there needs to be greater accuracy because the derailleur cannot move the chain as far laterally or back up.
Al
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 33,657
Likes: 1,119
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
I have an old Trek road bike I use as a beater. It originally had an SR triple crank with plain flat chainrings and barcon shifters (friction in front of course). Shifting even from large to the middle ring was not very precise and was very sluggish under load. I replaced the SR with a Shimano 105 triple and, using the same barcons, front shifting is worlds better.
#5
I think ramps and pins are more important for indexed shifting. Friction shifting works fine without.
The ramps and pins help the chain climb from a smaller chainring to a larger chainring. With friction shifting you can over shift and then trim back but with index shifting there needs to be greater accuracy because the derailleur cannot move the chain as far laterally or back up.
Al
The ramps and pins help the chain climb from a smaller chainring to a larger chainring. With friction shifting you can over shift and then trim back but with index shifting there needs to be greater accuracy because the derailleur cannot move the chain as far laterally or back up.
Al
"works fine" but shifting under load or any other time is more effortless with ramped and pinned rings.
ed rader
#6
Year-round cyclist

Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,023
Likes: 3
From: Montréal (Québec)
It depends on what chainrings you have and how you define "good shifting".
Basically, if you have the typical double (53-39 or 48-34 for example), shifting will be quite good without ramped and pinned chainrings, but it will be transparent with ramp and pinned chainrings. On the other hand, if you have cobbled up a really compact wide range double (50-28 on a mountain crankset for example), than the lack of ramps will show.
By "quite good" vs "transparent", I mean that with ramped and pinned chainrings, you will feel confident enough to shift while standing on the pedals, whereas without them, you should ease a bit pressure on the pedals. You'll still be light years ahead of a 1980-style derailleur.
Basically, if you have the typical double (53-39 or 48-34 for example), shifting will be quite good without ramped and pinned chainrings, but it will be transparent with ramp and pinned chainrings. On the other hand, if you have cobbled up a really compact wide range double (50-28 on a mountain crankset for example), than the lack of ramps will show.
By "quite good" vs "transparent", I mean that with ramped and pinned chainrings, you will feel confident enough to shift while standing on the pedals, whereas without them, you should ease a bit pressure on the pedals. You'll still be light years ahead of a 1980-style derailleur.
#7
Senior Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 6,301
Likes: 14
From: La La Land (We love it!)
Bikes: Gilmour road, Curtlo road; both steel (of course)
Yes it makes a difference, though only going from smaller to larger chain wheels.
So in a double the largest CW and in a triple the mid and large CW should be pinned
and relieved for best shifting. You don't realize what the pins do til you go back to
your old '70s era bike and discover what you have gained.
A study of the cassette will show all the cogs are pinned as well.
It works.
So in a double the largest CW and in a triple the mid and large CW should be pinned
and relieved for best shifting. You don't realize what the pins do til you go back to
your old '70s era bike and discover what you have gained.
A study of the cassette will show all the cogs are pinned as well.
It works.
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