TODD HAMMONS

I am a new wheel builder. How much side to side movement is allowed between calipers after truing Is complete.(i.e. 1/16",1/8" play)or should the calipers barely touch the rim on both sides? I have a Park Ts-2 stand. What is the rule of thumb when setting up the truing stand? What are the chances of getting the rim perfectly straight and eliminating any side to side movement without any allowances.

operator

It depends on the quality of your rim. Barnetts says .5mm. Crap rims that aren't unifrom in width all around or rims with bad seams will screw up the lateral true to some degree.

And also, stop capitalizing every word.

John Wilke

That's a good tip.

Scooper

Barnett's says .5mm, and Park Tool says 1mm.

I try for .5mm and settle for 1mm.

tellyho

Depends on how much patience you have.

DLBroox

How much work must that be to capitalize every letter? I've never seen anyone do that!

koine2002

I aim for a tolerance of <=.5mm when I build a wheel, but am satisfied with <=1mm. 1/8" is way too much for my standards. If it is a quality rim, 1/8" probably has too much variation in spoke tension.

TODD HAMMONS

I accidentally had caps lock on.

Soil_Sampler

Caps Lock missed the O in the word or?

San Rensho 

Couple of mm is fine. The first time you ride it, it will be out of true way more than .5mm. I've never understood why guys use a dial indicator to get the wheel to within thousands of an inch, when after the first ride, its going to go out.

This is how I build wheels. After truing the wheel, I put the wheel on the ground, step on one side and with the other foot, carefully and progressively apply pressure to the other side until I just feel the rim start to flex. Rotate, repeat, flip repeat. Then I put it back in the stand and retrue.

Then, I repeat the above until I can flex/stress the rim and the wheel doesn't go out of true. I can usually get to to whithin 1mm using this method and the rim will last for years of normal riding without having to retrue.

DMF 

DLBroox

Funny...if I type with Caps Lock, it locks ALL THE CAPS, NOT JUST THE FIRST LETTER.

I'm a high school teacher...I had to weigh in on the excuse...

TODD HAMMONS

Thanks genius, I am very aware of what caps lock does.

DLBroox

Oh, so sorry, I seem to have offended you.

operator

Rofl.

TODD HAMMONS

Rofl?

brownlandshark

Be sure first off that your hub has no play in it. That will affect the run out. . 5 is easy to get if you have enough time, however, after you ride it it'll be about twice that which is fine. Be sure when doing a rear whell that the cassette body is mounted to the right side (if you're looking at it from the front) of the truing stand. Good luck!

TurdFerguson2

Why is that? I've always done that out of consistency, but I didn't think it served any real purpose. Does it have something to do with dish on a Park TS-2? I personally don't trust the dish on a TS-2 because I have never used one that had correct dish. In fact, if you true the rim that way then flip the wheel around, you can check for dish.

neilG

ROLF> I think he thinks your name is Rolf because Germans capitalize all nouns.

brownlandshark

The park stand is set up to calibrate the dish when mounted that way. You are correct that usually it isn't in dish but it should be close. If you mounted it the other way (facing left) it would be way off. Be sure never to handle the truing stand by the arms or it will throw off the calibration and therefore the dish will be off on the wheel.

nitropowered

same here. Its not worth bothering too much if its not a quality rim. Low end rims aren't perfectly machined so there will be high and low spots in the braking surface that will make it harder to get perfectly true

Reynolds 

+1.
1 mm max unless it's a crappy rim.

TurdFerguson2

ROFL = Rolling On the Floor Laughing

TurdFerguson2

Why would it be way off if you mounted it backwards? If the stand is properly dished, it shouldn't matter which way you put it in the stand. How does the stand 'know' which way the wheel is in? If it is dished properly, with a given spacing, it should always center the wheel. If I put my wheel in driveside to the left or right, it is still 135 mm between the locknuts and the center of my rim should be half that (67.5 mm). If I flip it around, half of 135 is still 67.5.

MnHPVA Guy

I never trust any truing stand for centering. No matter how good it is, if you remove the wheel and replace it, without flipping it over, most of the time it will be off. I use a dishing gauge. And a Park tensiometer.

With my homebrewed stand with dial indicators I have no trouble truing new rims to +/- 0.004" (0.1mm) and used to twice that.