That FSA click...crap :(
08-20-07, 10:45 AM
#1
Burnin' and Lootin'
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That FSA click...crap :(
I have compact crank SLK from FSA and I have always stood by the crank. I have seen others here have problems and I was happy that I was not one of them. The alleged problem usually starts off with a click and then turns into other issues.
I have had the crank for a just under 2 years and I don't race or ride like P-cad. I first noticed the click sound when I was on a really long hill climb. About mid way up it would do a small faint click. I just thought it was the seat post or something...
Now, every time I get out of the saddle, click. The Click happens when the drive side crank arm is just passing the downward pedal. After reading the stuff about the cranks I did what others did to fix it.
I took off the crank, cleaned the BB area, put Teflon tape on the BB cups, used locktread compound on the non-drive side bolt. I checked the pedals by taking them off and putting on another set...still click
click click click....
wtf?
= suck
Last edited by ggg300; 08-21-07 at 03:52 PM.
08-20-07, 10:47 AM
#2
guppy
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make sure that the bolt holding the cranks together is tight. I heard the click, then all of a sudden i was peddling with one foot, which then slid out of the BB. interesting feeling, 20 mph, breaks, but crank arms attached to the bottom of both feet.
08-20-07, 11:17 AM
#3
Burnin' and Lootin'
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Trust me that thing is on there...
08-21-07, 08:39 AM
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That click is driving me nuts! The problem is the bolt holding the crank arm in place, it is made of aluminum and if you over-torque it, it will strip the threads when you are really hammering on it(thank god the threads on the bolt only and not the actual crank).
FSA now seems to recommend using lock-tite on it when you install. I think the proper torque is only approx 3 ft-lb (as per FSA)...which is all you need, its the pinch bolts that actually keep the arm tight on the crank after that and also squeeze the crank bolt in place. Make sure you use a degreaser to clean both surfaces before applying lock-tite...and allow some time for the lock-tite to set in.
FSA now seems to recommend using lock-tite on it when you install. I think the proper torque is only approx 3 ft-lb (as per FSA)...which is all you need, its the pinch bolts that actually keep the arm tight on the crank after that and also squeeze the crank bolt in place. Make sure you use a degreaser to clean both surfaces before applying lock-tite...and allow some time for the lock-tite to set in.
08-21-07, 08:50 AM
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I used to have the same issue with my Compact SL-Ks. Then the bolt became loose every couple of rides. I called FSA, sent the cranks to them (more than a year old), and received a brand ones. No problem since.
It's not only a bolt issue as I first tried a new bolt without success before the exchange. The actual problem resides in the axle thread design and material.
It's not only a bolt issue as I first tried a new bolt without success before the exchange. The actual problem resides in the axle thread design and material.
08-21-07, 09:16 AM
#7
Peloton Shelter Dog
My Dura Ace equipped Cdale Six13 is clicking like crazy and so far two LBS's can't figure it out. Replacing the BB next.
08-21-07, 12:01 PM
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Burnin' and Lootin'
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I used to have the same issue with my Compact SL-Ks. Then the bolt became loose every couple of rides. I called FSA, sent the cranks to them (more than a year old), and received a brand ones. No problem since.
It's not only a bolt issue as I first tried a new bolt without success before the exchange. The actual problem resides in the axle thread design and material.
It's not only a bolt issue as I first tried a new bolt without success before the exchange. The actual problem resides in the axle thread design and material.
click click click.....
...its like a really bad edgar allan poe poem about CF..."dissemble no more! I admit the deed!" FSA sucks indeed...
08-21-07, 12:20 PM
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I told FSA on the phone that lots of people are having a clicking problem...the guy got pissed off and told me that I am the only one and that their cranks are really good and problem free...that is just hilarious.
08-21-07, 12:30 PM
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08-21-07, 12:30 PM
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Making a kilometer blurry
+1 to ISIS. My old square-taper bikes do really well too, but no hollow spindles there...
08-21-07, 12:32 PM
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That click is driving me nuts! The problem is the bolt holding the crank arm in place, it is made of aluminum and if you over-torque it, it will strip the threads when you are really hammering on it(thank god the threads on the bolt only and not the actual crank).
FSA now seems to recommend using lock-tite on it when you install. I think the proper torque is only approx 3 ft-lb (as per FSA)...which is all you need, its the pinch bolts that actually keep the arm tight on the crank after that and also squeeze the crank bolt in place.
FSA now seems to recommend using lock-tite on it when you install. I think the proper torque is only approx 3 ft-lb (as per FSA)...which is all you need, its the pinch bolts that actually keep the arm tight on the crank after that and also squeeze the crank bolt in place.
For the SLKs FSA recommends 36 ft/lbs. And Loctite. But IIRC it's a special Loctite, not the typical blue stuff. See their web site for the exact details, or email them.
08-21-07, 12:51 PM
#13
Burnin' and Lootin'
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I just got to talk to a live person...can you say defensive! Mother of GOD!!!!
Some guy named Manuel answered the phone...I told him about my problem...he cut me off and asked if I had taken the crank in to the LBS. I said no...he then tried to make me fell like a jack ass for calling and went down a list of things I need to do first. I told him that I did all that...and all I wanted was a steel bolt or a next step...he did not sound as if he was going to help so I asked for an e-mail so I get get a record of my efforts to fix this click and if anything goes wrong with that crank while I'm riding they are going to wish they had addressed the issue.
MANUEL@FULLSPEEDAHEAD.COM = wheelsucker of the day!
08-21-07, 12:59 PM
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Evil Genius
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Remember to check your front derailleur cable end. I sound like a fool for admitting it, but I hassled with a crank for a day or so recently, then happened to notice it by looking down over the top tube as I turned the crank. The cable squishy was tapping against the carbon arm...click...click...click...
Oh well, better than a bottom bracket problem, right?
Oh well, better than a bottom bracket problem, right?
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08-21-07, 01:28 PM
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Remember to check your front derailleur cable end. I sound like a fool for admitting it, but I hassled with a crank for a day or so recently, then happened to notice it by looking down over the top tube as I turned the crank. The cable squishy was tapping against the carbon arm...click...click...click...
Oh well, better than a bottom bracket problem, right?
Oh well, better than a bottom bracket problem, right?
08-21-07, 01:32 PM
#16
Burnin' and Lootin'
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08-21-07, 01:58 PM
#17
Making a kilometer blurry
08-21-07, 02:16 PM
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But, eyebrows were raised when Cancellara's bike sported an cheaper aluminum FSA energy crankset instead of the new carbon cranks. They attempted to disguise it with K-Force light chainrings.
Reporters also caught on that the SRAM bikes all had Shimano chains.
08-21-07, 02:26 PM
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It is fantastic.
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FSA has a problem in that they have a very short half-life to their products and they are always introducing new designs. This is so bad that even CSC was caught at the TDF using last year's cranks, because they still had them left over from last year and the company introduces new cranks every 6 months. So they rebadged them to look like new cranks. That's the story.
But, eyebrows were raised when Cancellara's bike sported an cheaper aluminum FSA energy crankset instead of the new carbon cranks. They attempted to disguise it with K-Force light chainrings.
Reporters also caught on that the SRAM bikes all had Shimano chains.
But, eyebrows were raised when Cancellara's bike sported an cheaper aluminum FSA energy crankset instead of the new carbon cranks. They attempted to disguise it with K-Force light chainrings.
Reporters also caught on that the SRAM bikes all had Shimano chains.
08-21-07, 02:44 PM
#20
Burnin' and Lootin'
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FSA has a problem in that they have a very short half-life to their products and they are always introducing new designs. This is so bad that even CSC was caught at the TDF using last year's cranks, because they still had them left over from last year and the company introduces new cranks every 6 months. So they rebadged them to look like new cranks. That's the story.
But, eyebrows were raised when Cancellara's bike sported an cheaper aluminum FSA energy crankset instead of the new carbon cranks. They attempted to disguise it with K-Force light chainrings.
Reporters also caught on that the SRAM bikes all had Shimano chains.
But, eyebrows were raised when Cancellara's bike sported an cheaper aluminum FSA energy crankset instead of the new carbon cranks. They attempted to disguise it with K-Force light chainrings.
Reporters also caught on that the SRAM bikes all had Shimano chains.
08-21-07, 02:45 PM
#21
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08-21-07, 02:48 PM
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Sensible shoes.
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And those suck, too.
I rarely say never, but with FSA (et al) cranks...
That's unfortunate. I just tried to GIVE my old Gossamer crankset away to no avail.
I rarely say never, but with FSA (et al) cranks...
That's unfortunate. I just tried to GIVE my old Gossamer crankset away to no avail.
08-21-07, 02:58 PM
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PCAd,
this is just shooting in the dark, but could it be your headset? I have the same troubles with my bike until I realize it's the damn headset that's causing all the noise. DA cranks an BB, esp the 7800, should not be doing that.
this is just shooting in the dark, but could it be your headset? I have the same troubles with my bike until I realize it's the damn headset that's causing all the noise. DA cranks an BB, esp the 7800, should not be doing that.
08-21-07, 03:22 PM
#25
Portland Fred
I tried to work with FSA customer service but found them to be useless. I know I had the cheap crank, but it still was a bad deal. The customer service was definitely subpar. I won't be getting any more of their products in the future.
I decisively solved the problem by getting a Shimano R700.