Alcohol as a chain solvent.
#26
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reacts badly with my mucous membranes. Just the smell of it makes me feel like I have a cough coming on. Must be the perfume in it. If it had no smell or a low smell, I would probably use it.,,,,BD
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Not against you personally, but the water based solvent thing in general. They all leave a soapy residue unless rinsed off, at least every one I've ever used. And for some reason I don't know why, simple green
reacts badly with my mucous membranes. Just the smell of it makes me feel like I have a cough coming on. Must be the perfume in it. If it had no smell or a low smell, I would probably use it.,,,,BD
reacts badly with my mucous membranes. Just the smell of it makes me feel like I have a cough coming on. Must be the perfume in it. If it had no smell or a low smell, I would probably use it.,,,,BD
Also, there is anecdotal evidence out there that soaking chains in Simple Green will damage them. Just take that bottle to your next hazardous waste dropoff day.
As for rubbing alcohol and chains, running the chain through a rag dampened with isopropyl should do a nice job keeping the exterior free of dust-attracting excess lube.
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I have used Castrol Superclean (also the knock offs like Purple Power) with excellent results. I used a 2 liter with about 200 ml of Superclean, shake vigorously, drain the liquid into a 2nd botle for reuse, add 200 ml of hot water into bottle with chain, shake vigorously, dispose down drain. Repeat 2 more times. Remove chain, rinse with small stream of hot water working each link under the hot water stream. You can feel the link comoing clean as you work each link. Allow chain to dry overnite. Allow the used solvent to settle out, decant and dispose of the gunk at bottom. Reuse the solvent again.
John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ
John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ
#29
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Not against you personally, but the water based solvent thing in general. They all leave a soapy residue unless rinsed off, at least every one I've ever used. And for some reason I don't know why, simple green
reacts badly with my mucous membranes. Just the smell of it makes me feel like I have a cough coming on. Must be the perfume in it. If it had no smell or a low smell, I would probably use it.,,,,BD
reacts badly with my mucous membranes. Just the smell of it makes me feel like I have a cough coming on. Must be the perfume in it. If it had no smell or a low smell, I would probably use it.,,,,BD
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#30
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Simple green and, to a lesser extent, dish soap work by playing a little chemical trick on the oil. Detergents have a part of the molecule that likes water and a part that doesn't. Put them in water and the water hating part turns around like musk ox protecting their calves and puts the part that likes water looking out. Along comes a little oil molecule seeking shelter from that nasty water and it goes right into middle of the detergent bubble...called a micelle. It's happy now and will go anywhere the micelle goes, i.e. down the drain. It works but there is only so much oil the micelles can dissolve...much, much less than a true solvent will handle.
Cyccommute, you've now convinced me. Per your post about rust in the chain, I will just point out to those who use water that one of the best ways to avoid having water residue on anything is to make it very hot and therefore quick to evaporate. I find it incredibly frustrating to watch people wash dishes with running cold water when all they need to do is put on some gloves and turn up the hot, it's so wasteful and not as effective.
Oh, and if you're using Simple Green, while the solvent and water are 'bio-friendly' or whatever, they're still slinking down your drain with all that oil sludge and metals, which isn't even great for your plumbing pipes, let alone the sewage and water endpoints.
#32
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Isopropanol will work better than methanol or ethanol, but it's still crappy compared to something with long hydrophobic chains like kerosene. The gunk you're most likely trying to clean off is dirt and grit stuck in the lubrication you're using on your chain, which is (usually) oil-based. So best bet is something designed to solublize oils. Paint thinner should work very well, too.
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How do the citrus based degreasers stack up against the hydrocarbon solvents? Or are they the water-based solvents that have been mentioned so far? Pardon me if I am confused. It's been a long time since HS chemistry class!
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a. can be used on its own to dissolve grease and oils, in addition to adhesives of various kind and
b. can be diluted in water, in which case it works as a detergent.
These two facts put together fly in the face of cyccommute was saying - he stated that anything that dissolves in water will not work as a good solvent for lubes (I have a different personal experience, but will keep it for myself for now).
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Thanks wroomwroomoops. Good information. That is helpful. I use methanol as fuel for small engines and years ago I looked for an alternative lubricant to the usual castor oil. That is how I learned that motor oil would not dissolve. I am aware it is toxic.
#38
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You are far better off cleaning it with a light lube than immersing it in solvents.
#39
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I've stopped deep cleaning chains; I wipe them down regularly with clean rags, then with ProGold ProLink-saturated rags.
#40
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Good question, actually. I never used citrus degreasers, but looking around the 'net, it seems that it's a chemical called d-Limonene and that
a. can be used on its own to dissolve grease and oils, in addition to adhesives of various kind and
b. can be diluted in water, in which case it works as a detergent.
These two facts put together fly in the face of cyccommute was saying - he stated that anything that dissolves in water will not work as a good solvent for lubes (I have a different personal experience, but will keep it for myself for now).
a. can be used on its own to dissolve grease and oils, in addition to adhesives of various kind and
b. can be diluted in water, in which case it works as a detergent.
These two facts put together fly in the face of cyccommute was saying - he stated that anything that dissolves in water will not work as a good solvent for lubes (I have a different personal experience, but will keep it for myself for now).
Its like they are part fat part water and therefore will dissolve in either oil or water
#41
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Another vote for Purple Power and it's caustic kin. You do need to wear rubber gloves with this stuff- it will eat the oil out of your skin and turn it to soap!
I submerge the chain in an old Tupperware container full of PP, and snap the lid on. I leave it for a couple days, though a much shorter time would be fine. Once the PP has worked it's way into the goop, a quick brushing will loosen all the external crud. I then rinse the chain in water and put it back in the container with PP for a good shake. Another water rinse and it seems like new. I use compressed air to dry the chain, but a quick bake in a toaster oven at 200 deprees or so would also suffice.
My chains cleaned in this manner seem very clean inside when flexed. No gritty noises or feel.
If there's substantial rust on the chain, a bath in my electrolytic rust removal tank will leave it rust free.
Darron
I submerge the chain in an old Tupperware container full of PP, and snap the lid on. I leave it for a couple days, though a much shorter time would be fine. Once the PP has worked it's way into the goop, a quick brushing will loosen all the external crud. I then rinse the chain in water and put it back in the container with PP for a good shake. Another water rinse and it seems like new. I use compressed air to dry the chain, but a quick bake in a toaster oven at 200 deprees or so would also suffice.
My chains cleaned in this manner seem very clean inside when flexed. No gritty noises or feel.
If there's substantial rust on the chain, a bath in my electrolytic rust removal tank will leave it rust free.
Darron
#42
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I'm just going to replace my chain next time it gets diry.
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#45
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Actually thats not quite what he said. Yes, like dissolves like but some substances like detergents are organic compounds that are amphipathic, meaning they contain both hydrophobic groups (their "tails") and hydrophilic groups (their "heads"). Therefore, they are soluble in both organic solvents and water!
Its like they are part fat part water and therefore will dissolve in either oil or water
Its like they are part fat part water and therefore will dissolve in either oil or water
Simple green and, to a lesser extent, dish soap work by playing a little chemical trick on the oil. Detergents have a part of the molecule that likes water and a part that doesn't. Put them in water and the water hating part turns around like musk ox protecting their calves and puts the part that likes water looking out. Along comes a little oil molecule seeking shelter from that nasty water and it goes right into middle of the detergent bubble...called a micelle. It's happy now and will go anywhere the micelle goes, i.e. down the drain. It works but there is only so much oil the micelles can dissolve...much, much less than a true solvent will handle.
#46
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Amazingly enough, the solvent I use stays in a sealed container, is never poured out, and the worst harm it could do is from evaporation, which happens over time, and I refill the same container. I have never poured it out on the driveway, or anywhere else for that matter. I imagine that's even a little better than simple green and oil mixture making it's way to the nearest river?,,,,BD
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I think what we need to do is have everyone send their chain to an independent lab to find out whose chain is the cleanest. The winner gets to make the last post on this thread.
Last edited by Jim Bushard; 01-18-08 at 11:20 PM.
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alcohol is much better for drinking i would have thought lol just use kerosene much easier and does better job,i dont find alchol good for removing any grease actually its better suited for paints etc
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I was just looking for a better solvent than these "fuels" and I found this thread. I was just about to go buy a liter a diesel, but now I am looking at "citrus solvents". I have been reading wikipedia articles on solvents, and have not found any info on citrus solvents.
My main problem is that if I have a little bath going on, cleaning my parts, I have no way of disposing the solvent. I have to haul it to this special place where they take care of it.
Is there a solvent that is safe to drain down the sink?
I have tried laundry detergent, while it cleans everything really well, it doesn't really clean out the grime and gunk.
My main problem is that if I have a little bath going on, cleaning my parts, I have no way of disposing the solvent. I have to haul it to this special place where they take care of it.
Is there a solvent that is safe to drain down the sink?
I have tried laundry detergent, while it cleans everything really well, it doesn't really clean out the grime and gunk.
#50
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Fuels are to power vehicles? Buy some carb part cleaner like Chemtool from an auto parts store. It comes in a can with a basket, lasts for months and months. A year or more even when used a few times a week.
They key point is to keep the solvent in a sealed container, and it can be used multiple times. There's really no need to dispose of it immediately unless you just want to. If you use the stuff that infrequently, just take your bikes in and let a shop do it.,,,,BD
Solvent down the sink is a horrible idea, unless you don't mind drinking it later.
They key point is to keep the solvent in a sealed container, and it can be used multiple times. There's really no need to dispose of it immediately unless you just want to. If you use the stuff that infrequently, just take your bikes in and let a shop do it.,,,,BD
Solvent down the sink is a horrible idea, unless you don't mind drinking it later.
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Last edited by Bikedued; 04-30-08 at 05:33 AM.