Peugeot U08 for my Mrs.
#151
Senior Member
-----
it may be perspective or a photographic effect but the non-drive side blade in this image appears to exhibit a shallow lateral bow in about the middle of the chromed area
deformations of this sort can reduce the blade's effective blade length
could be checked by laying a straightedge down lateral face of blade
-----
it may be perspective or a photographic effect but the non-drive side blade in this image appears to exhibit a shallow lateral bow in about the middle of the chromed area
deformations of this sort can reduce the blade's effective blade length
could be checked by laying a straightedge down lateral face of blade
-----
Last edited by juvela; 02-24-24 at 09:17 AM. Reason: addition
Likes For juvela:
#152
PeopleCode delaminator
bulk cable housing by the foot.
I'm guessing that would work for most vintage rear derailleurs.
And to the original poster - great job on the bikes so far!
Last edited by RandolphCarter; 02-24-24 at 07:25 PM.
Likes For RandolphCarter:
#153
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2023
Location: Idaho, USA
Posts: 320
Bikes: Aluminum and Steel
Liked 664 Times
in
215 Posts
Went for a pedal to test the 3rd and hopefully final front derailleur. I’m starting to tire of Delrin.
But what has been repeatedly perplexing me is the seat post tension bolt. I’m cranking it down to about two white knuckles (25 ft lbs / 34 Nm). But it’s still dropping on my rides. I’m 190 lbs (86 kg) so I don’t think that’s the issue.
A self gratifying picture just because I’m amazed the darn thing works more or less considering I’m a rookie:
But what has been repeatedly perplexing me is the seat post tension bolt. I’m cranking it down to about two white knuckles (25 ft lbs / 34 Nm). But it’s still dropping on my rides. I’m 190 lbs (86 kg) so I don’t think that’s the issue.
A self gratifying picture just because I’m amazed the darn thing works more or less considering I’m a rookie:
__________________
“Ride like the wind boy! Ride like the wind…”
-The Voice inside my head, circa 1982
“Ride like the wind boy! Ride like the wind…”
-The Voice inside my head, circa 1982
Likes For IdahoBrett:
Likes For daverup:
Likes For daverup:
#157
Senior Member
Do you have the collar that goes in the seat tube - steel and looks like a top hat sleeve with a slot in it? The OEM seat post is smaller than usual and the collar makes up the difference. If you remove the collar you can use a more standard post.
Also beware that the OEM post sometimes has no shoulder for the seat clamp. You can (and some have) had the seat slip down the post itself, with disastrous consequences to your nether regions if it happens hard enough…. DAMHIK.
Edit: take a photo of the seat post clamp area especially from the back so we can see the slot and the ears of the lug….
Edit 2: both our AO-8s have the collar removed and both have seat posts that measure 25.4mm
Also beware that the OEM post sometimes has no shoulder for the seat clamp. You can (and some have) had the seat slip down the post itself, with disastrous consequences to your nether regions if it happens hard enough…. DAMHIK.
Edit: take a photo of the seat post clamp area especially from the back so we can see the slot and the ears of the lug….
Edit 2: both our AO-8s have the collar removed and both have seat posts that measure 25.4mm
Last edited by markk900; 03-01-24 at 03:17 PM.
Likes For markk900:
#158
#159
Senior Member
-----
in comparing the blades on the Mr. machine to those on the Mrs. machine it is clear that the Mrs. blades have "relaxed"
a common cause for expression of this symptom is when a juvenile male has gotten hold of the cycle and employed it for jumps, riding off curbs and down steps
they can noticeably deform a fork in just a few moments with such actions
-----
in comparing the blades on the Mr. machine to those on the Mrs. machine it is clear that the Mrs. blades have "relaxed"
a common cause for expression of this symptom is when a juvenile male has gotten hold of the cycle and employed it for jumps, riding off curbs and down steps
they can noticeably deform a fork in just a few moments with such actions
-----
Likes For juvela:
#160
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2023
Location: Idaho, USA
Posts: 320
Bikes: Aluminum and Steel
Liked 664 Times
in
215 Posts
Do you have the collar that goes in the seat tube - steel and looks like a top hat sleeve with a slot in it? The OEM seat post is smaller than usual and the collar makes up the difference. If you remove the collar you can use a more standard post.
Also beware that the OEM post sometimes has no shoulder for the seat clamp. You can (and some have) had the seat slip down the post itself, with disastrous consequences to your nether regions if it happens hard enough…. DAMHIK.
Edit: take a photo of the seat post clamp area especially from the back so we can see the slot and the ears of the lug….
Edit 2: both our AO-8s have the collar removed and both have seat posts that measure 26.7mm.
Also beware that the OEM post sometimes has no shoulder for the seat clamp. You can (and some have) had the seat slip down the post itself, with disastrous consequences to your nether regions if it happens hard enough…. DAMHIK.
Edit: take a photo of the seat post clamp area especially from the back so we can see the slot and the ears of the lug….
Edit 2: both our AO-8s have the collar removed and both have seat posts that measure 26.7mm.
__________________
“Ride like the wind boy! Ride like the wind…”
-The Voice inside my head, circa 1982
“Ride like the wind boy! Ride like the wind…”
-The Voice inside my head, circa 1982
Last edited by IdahoBrett; 02-29-24 at 11:38 PM.
Likes For IdahoBrett:
#161
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Michigan USA
Posts: 1,057
Bikes: A bunch of old bikes.
Liked 1,093 Times
in
498 Posts
The top of that seat tube looks a bit mangled.
Does the collar/insert have more than one slot?
If you straighten the top of the seat tube you'll have to watch out that you don't create sharp burrs that will damage something else.
Many of us use brake hones on a drill to smooth out seat tubes.
Does the collar/insert have more than one slot?
If you straighten the top of the seat tube you'll have to watch out that you don't create sharp burrs that will damage something else.
Many of us use brake hones on a drill to smooth out seat tubes.
Likes For daverup:
#162
Senior Member
Yeah, I agree with daverup : looks like the collar was stuck at one point and someone used some force to get it out.
Good news is that the slot in the seat tube is not closed up or even looking all that unusual.
My suggestion is first check the inside of the seat tube to make sure it is as round and burr free as possible (maybe even that brake hone idea or the bare seat post with some light sandpaper); then align the collar so that the seat tube slot and the cuts in the collar do not line up; and finally that the collar is fully seated. Retighten. It should be quite firm but not white knuckle firm.
If that doesn’t work try a seat post without the collar…..
Good news is that the slot in the seat tube is not closed up or even looking all that unusual.
My suggestion is first check the inside of the seat tube to make sure it is as round and burr free as possible (maybe even that brake hone idea or the bare seat post with some light sandpaper); then align the collar so that the seat tube slot and the cuts in the collar do not line up; and finally that the collar is fully seated. Retighten. It should be quite firm but not white knuckle firm.
If that doesn’t work try a seat post without the collar…..
Likes For markk900:
#163
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Michigan USA
Posts: 1,057
Bikes: A bunch of old bikes.
Liked 1,093 Times
in
498 Posts
A very old thread on this issue,
1975 UO8 Seat Post Size
1975 UO8 Seat Post Size
Likes For daverup:
#164
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2023
Location: Idaho, USA
Posts: 320
Bikes: Aluminum and Steel
Liked 664 Times
in
215 Posts
Seat post measures 22mm as expected. OD of seat tube is 28mm.
I am suspecting that the gap in the shim should be aligned with the gap in the seat tube. A quick turn test with channel lock pliers with a moderate don’t gouge anything force was used, to which it was revealed that the shim likes to stay where it’s at. I’ll have to break out the Kroil and let it do its thing for a bit.
I am suspecting that the gap in the shim should be aligned with the gap in the seat tube. A quick turn test with channel lock pliers with a moderate don’t gouge anything force was used, to which it was revealed that the shim likes to stay where it’s at. I’ll have to break out the Kroil and let it do its thing for a bit.
__________________
“Ride like the wind boy! Ride like the wind…”
-The Voice inside my head, circa 1982
“Ride like the wind boy! Ride like the wind…”
-The Voice inside my head, circa 1982
Last edited by IdahoBrett; 03-01-24 at 09:03 AM.
Likes For IdahoBrett:
#165
Senior Member
Do you have the collar that goes in the seat tube - steel and looks like a top hat sleeve with a slot in it? The OEM seat post is smaller than usual and the collar makes up the difference. If you remove the collar you can use a more standard post.
Also beware that the OEM post sometimes has no shoulder for the seat clamp. You can (and some have) had the seat slip down the post itself, with disastrous consequences to your nether regions if it happens hard enough…. DAMHIK.
Edit: take a photo of the seat post clamp area especially from the back so we can see the slot and the ears of the lug….
Edit 2: both our AO-8s have the collar removed and both have seat posts that measure 26.7mm.
Also beware that the OEM post sometimes has no shoulder for the seat clamp. You can (and some have) had the seat slip down the post itself, with disastrous consequences to your nether regions if it happens hard enough…. DAMHIK.
Edit: take a photo of the seat post clamp area especially from the back so we can see the slot and the ears of the lug….
Edit 2: both our AO-8s have the collar removed and both have seat posts that measure 26.7mm.
-----
many are the ADGA 28A saddles seen in the field with a distinctive circular marking in the centre of the top measuring approximately 22mm
-----
#166
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Michigan USA
Posts: 1,057
Bikes: A bunch of old bikes.
Liked 1,093 Times
in
498 Posts
Seat post measures 22mm as expected. OD of seat tube is 28mm.
I am suspecting that the gap in the shim should be aligned with the gap in the seat tube. A quick turn test with channel lock pliers with a moderate don’t gouge anything force was used, to which it was revealed that the shim likes to stay where it’s at. I’ll have to break out the Kroil and let it do its thing for a bit.
I am suspecting that the gap in the shim should be aligned with the gap in the seat tube. A quick turn test with channel lock pliers with a moderate don’t gouge anything force was used, to which it was revealed that the shim likes to stay where it’s at. I’ll have to break out the Kroil and let it do its thing for a bit.
Likes For daverup:
#167
Senior Member
I also note that it appears the post is itself straight - ie no shoulder for the seat clamp. Are you sure it’s the post that is moving in the seat tube and not the seat moving down the post (see juvela ’s comment).
The collar should not be stuck so is indeed likely the problem - still it and the seat tube are steel so it’ll just be rust and not galvanic corrosion.
edit: to protect the mustang I would not worry too much about bike damage and place the top tube in the clamp. It’s not like the UO series is made with delicate tubing and you don’t need to tighten the clamp too much anyway.
As well, I don’t recall ever worrying about lining the slot in the collar with the one on the tube. I think daverup is correct and if you free the collar and clean it and the tube you should be good.
The collar should not be stuck so is indeed likely the problem - still it and the seat tube are steel so it’ll just be rust and not galvanic corrosion.
edit: to protect the mustang I would not worry too much about bike damage and place the top tube in the clamp. It’s not like the UO series is made with delicate tubing and you don’t need to tighten the clamp too much anyway.
As well, I don’t recall ever worrying about lining the slot in the collar with the one on the tube. I think daverup is correct and if you free the collar and clean it and the tube you should be good.
Last edited by markk900; 03-01-24 at 10:45 AM.
Likes For markk900:
#168
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2023
Location: Idaho, USA
Posts: 320
Bikes: Aluminum and Steel
Liked 664 Times
in
215 Posts
Yes the seat post is sinking down into the seat tube. Normal extension for my leg length is about 3 inches.
When I first bought the repair stand I was tinkering with Cannondale’s, so I got in the habit of clamping the seat post. I realized my months of dumbness this morning and clamped the A08 by the top tube.
Just returned from the eye doc and a side trip to the LBS. The clock starts in about 5 minutes on the penetrating oil soak….
Cheers
When I first bought the repair stand I was tinkering with Cannondale’s, so I got in the habit of clamping the seat post. I realized my months of dumbness this morning and clamped the A08 by the top tube.
Just returned from the eye doc and a side trip to the LBS. The clock starts in about 5 minutes on the penetrating oil soak….
Cheers
__________________
“Ride like the wind boy! Ride like the wind…”
-The Voice inside my head, circa 1982
“Ride like the wind boy! Ride like the wind…”
-The Voice inside my head, circa 1982
#169
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2023
Location: Idaho, USA
Posts: 320
Bikes: Aluminum and Steel
Liked 664 Times
in
215 Posts
Seat post fixed. Pulled the collar, cleaned and polished it and the seat tube with mineral spirits, 600 grit and blue scotchbrite (still plenty of blue paint inside tube). Reinstalled collar, aligning the gaps. Seat post stayed put for a short and bumpy ride.
Rerouted brake cables on the proper side of the bars while I was fixin’ stuff. Front brake pads are still howling. Still looking for the sweet spot on pad position.
Now for Mrs. Idaho’s fork tweak. Tomorrow. Maybe….
Rerouted brake cables on the proper side of the bars while I was fixin’ stuff. Front brake pads are still howling. Still looking for the sweet spot on pad position.
Now for Mrs. Idaho’s fork tweak. Tomorrow. Maybe….
__________________
“Ride like the wind boy! Ride like the wind…”
-The Voice inside my head, circa 1982
“Ride like the wind boy! Ride like the wind…”
-The Voice inside my head, circa 1982
#170
Senior Member
-----
wrt anti-howl adjustment for MAFAC Racers -
it a good thing the MAFAC Dural formula permits a good amount of tweaking
try that on a Fratelli Pietra caliper and you have a broken caliper
-----
wrt anti-howl adjustment for MAFAC Racers -
it a good thing the MAFAC Dural formula permits a good amount of tweaking
try that on a Fratelli Pietra caliper and you have a broken caliper
-----
Likes For juvela:
#171
Senior Member
I can no longer find it but I had a supposed “mafac factory” adjustment guide and it said use a crescent wrench to set toe in…. I have had good luck getting rid of the howl with just a touch of toe-in.
Congrats on fixing the post issue!
Congrats on fixing the post issue!
Likes For markk900: