Ask your small, random, track-related questions here
#1451
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#1452
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How do you fit your track bikes? I've seen a lot of guides online for general bike fitting (torso angles, knee angles, etc.) - but it's all road/touring/triathlon oriented. Do the "rules" of road bike fit apply to track bikes? My inclination is to say no (based on the difference in speed, duration, and purpose).
#1453
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I use the general rules for the seat height (so get a fitter to measure knee angles in the bottom stroke). After that its all trial and error for me. I find seat back position and bar height are a bit different from my road setup.
For my pursuit fit its mostly the same. Since the bike handles so different at the track in aero bars vs on the road, I don't think you can take the same fit and apply it necessarily. At the same time, comfort goes out the window more or less as long as I don't lose power, since at most I only have to spend a few minutes in the position.
For my pursuit fit its mostly the same. Since the bike handles so different at the track in aero bars vs on the road, I don't think you can take the same fit and apply it necessarily. At the same time, comfort goes out the window more or less as long as I don't lose power, since at most I only have to spend a few minutes in the position.
#1454
How do you fit your track bikes? I've seen a lot of guides online for general bike fitting (torso angles, knee angles, etc.) - but it's all road/touring/triathlon oriented. Do the "rules" of road bike fit apply to track bikes? My inclination is to say no (based on the difference in speed, duration, and purpose).
Anyway, I like to start with a road-oriented fit, and then bring the saddle forward and up a bit. This tends to help me spin and jump; a lower and further back position for the road is better for lower cadences.
Maybe I'll do a cm shorter on the stem, but the saddle position tends to bring my reach a little bit closer. I go a hair lower, too - not much all things considered.
It winds up being a pretty road-esque position, but a hair more aggressive. As an enduro it's a pretty easy setup. Sprinters have more significant departures from road fit.
#1455
Elitist
Thread Starter
How do you fit your track bikes? I've seen a lot of guides online for general bike fitting (torso angles, knee angles, etc.) - but it's all road/touring/triathlon oriented. Do the "rules" of road bike fit apply to track bikes? My inclination is to say no (based on the difference in speed, duration, and purpose).
For me, it's been a lot of trial and error.
#1457
Senior Member
Good:
Bad:
The style with two chain lengths is for road bike cassettes. It doesn't work nearly as well for track cogs as the single length full wrap-around style.
__________________
Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
#1458
Senior Member
Shimano track chainwhip. The key feature is the single length of chain coming from the nose of the whip. It wraps all the way around the cog and both gives the chain more leverage on the cog and keeps it from slipping. Don't get the other style where you have two lengths and the chain wraps only part way around the cog.
Good:
Bad:
The style with two chain lengths is for road bike cassettes. It doesn't work nearly as well for track cogs as the single length full wrap-around style.
Good:
Bad:
The style with two chain lengths is for road bike cassettes. It doesn't work nearly as well for track cogs as the single length full wrap-around style.
Any one from NYC knows a store that stocks the Shimano chainwip? A friend of mine is there and he's willing to go to the store and pick one up for me
#1460
i'm picky but i wish i wasn't.
if i had one-piece handlebars/stem, i'd probably hate them because i wouldn't be able to tweak the angle of the bars. also, throughout the season, sometimes i get a bit more fit and put on a stem that's 5 or 10mm longer. sometimes i just get a hair more reach by rotating the handlebars.
the Ram makes this stuff impossible.
#1461
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Milton Velodrome/Escarpment
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(e.g.: Handlebars - Road / Track | R&A Cycles)
I ride similar bars (Most Talon) and love them, but on road. Don't have experience on track, but I have always seen different styling on track bars.
#1462
Elitist
Thread Starter
1) They assume that you have a standard head tube angle. A road head tube angle.
2) You can't tweak the reach or stem angle.
3) There aren't any significant weight savings or stiffness improvements.
So, it's like buying a car where you can't adjust the seat forwards, backwards, up, or down. What are the chances that it's perfect for you?
#1463
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Join Date: Sep 2010
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Thanks guys. It's off season here so haven't been on the track bike in awhile. Checked length and width and got all excited and forgot about angle. And I defintiely need some rise. Danke.
#1464
Several riders at my local track use older Cinelli Criterium bars including me. My bars are from a bike used in the 84 Olympic road race. I've also seen them being used by the stoker on a track tandem.
Not very sexy these days but work for me.
Not very sexy these days but work for me.
#1465
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Far Away
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Agree, they're fine, but they look a little odd on a full carbon bike. That's all. I'll probably just get some simple alu bars instead.
#1466
Cinelli recently started offering the Criterium bars again in widths down to 40 cm - price $65.00. I also see they offer Pista bars down to 40 cm width.
Today I got the idea to paint my bars to improve their look.
Today I got the idea to paint my bars to improve their look.
#1467
Senior Member
I've got a set on my training fixie. Only problem is they are't the stiffest bar in the world. If you are going to use road bars on the track, I highly recommend PRO VIBE 7S bars. They come in three different sized bends and they keep the clamp diameter out to the bend, so they are quite stiff. That said, unless you are sprinting, have a super stiff bar is not really that necessary. My "mass start" bar (compact bend so I can sit a bit more upright) is pretty flexy, which actually helps absorb some shock on our bumpy track and keeps my hands from going numb.
__________________
Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
Cat 2 Track, Cat 3 Road.
"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
Last edited by Brian Ratliff; 10-31-14 at 03:45 PM.
#1468
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Location: Hollywood
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Cinelli Criterium is nearly identical to the Nitto 125 which is stiffer in its aluminum version, way stiffer in its Steel version, and available down to 36cm
#1470
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Racing will not be happening at FCV this winter. Likely will have a christmas camp as usual.
There will be an ontario-cup race in...february I think, at Milton (if you cross at Buffalo this is an hour closer for you, just south of Toronto). Nationals Jan3-6 (im pretty sure Americans can race, not medal), international challenge mid January (UCI CL1 event). Im going to push to get some racing going, at the very least some TT stuff. Its hard to get too involved when I want to race more than organize anything!
Unfortunately the focus is on Pan-am right now, it might not be until next winter when we get some regular racing going.
There will be an ontario-cup race in...february I think, at Milton (if you cross at Buffalo this is an hour closer for you, just south of Toronto). Nationals Jan3-6 (im pretty sure Americans can race, not medal), international challenge mid January (UCI CL1 event). Im going to push to get some racing going, at the very least some TT stuff. Its hard to get too involved when I want to race more than organize anything!
Unfortunately the focus is on Pan-am right now, it might not be until next winter when we get some regular racing going.
#1471
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Do you reduce the pressure on your tubulars once you're done riding for the day (e.g. drop them to 80-90 psi until you're going to ride them next)? I remember reading that you should somewhere, but I can't figure what the reasoning would be.
#1472
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Ive heard the same, something about stretching I think. If you have a set that holds air well...and you get multiple seasons out of them...it makes sense I guess.
#1473
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#1474
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Location: LI, NY
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Racing will not be happening at FCV this winter. Likely will have a christmas camp as usual.
There will be an ontario-cup race in...february I think, at Milton (if you cross at Buffalo this is an hour closer for you, just south of Toronto). Nationals Jan3-6 (im pretty sure Americans can race, not medal), international challenge mid January (UCI CL1 event). Im going to push to get some racing going, at the very least some TT stuff. Its hard to get too involved when I want to race more than organize anything!
Unfortunately the focus is on Pan-am right now, it might not be until next winter when we get some regular racing going.
There will be an ontario-cup race in...february I think, at Milton (if you cross at Buffalo this is an hour closer for you, just south of Toronto). Nationals Jan3-6 (im pretty sure Americans can race, not medal), international challenge mid January (UCI CL1 event). Im going to push to get some racing going, at the very least some TT stuff. Its hard to get too involved when I want to race more than organize anything!
Unfortunately the focus is on Pan-am right now, it might not be until next winter when we get some regular racing going.
#1475
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My latex-tubed tubulars air down quick enough that I don't bother to drop the pressure on them. I'll air down my butyl contis. I mostly do it to lower chances of a blow-out in transportation, but I've heard those tales about the casing stretching, too.