Show your Trek Multitrack!
#826
Happy banana slug
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Arcata, California, U.S., North America, Earth, Saggitarius Arm, Milky Way
Posts: 3,949
Bikes: 1984 Araya MB 261, 1992 Specialized Rockhopper Sport, 1993 Hard Rock Ultra, 1994 Trek Multitrack 750, 1995 Trek Singletrack 930
Liked 1,778 Times
in
1,041 Posts
Here's my Multitrack 730 ebike! But I also have a question about it. The rear wheel is not centered. I tried to get it as centered as possible and even went to my LBS to look at it. There's much more space on the right side than the left as you can see below. As you can see I can get my finger between the fork and the tire on the right side but not on the left side. I also get this sort of lurching back and forth when I'm riding which is much more apparent when I brake with the rear brakes. This may have something to do with the centering or possibly the rims have a concave groove which to me means they are probably too worn.
So I'm just seeing if other people with a Multitrack 730 have rear tires perfectly centered I'd appreciate anyone to chime in!
So I'm just seeing if other people with a Multitrack 730 have rear tires perfectly centered I'd appreciate anyone to chime in!
Likes For Korina:
#827
Newbie
Flip the bike upside down and gently set it on the seat and handlebars (you can put towels down to protect them from scratches or dirt). Loosen the rear wheel and make sure it's all the way down in the dropouts and tighten. Check the wheel at the chain stay bridge and the brakes and see if it's evenly spaced. If not, you can sometimes loosen and play with the axle position a bit to get it centered in both spots. When it's centered, tighten it down. Spin the rear wheel and watch the distance between the brake pads on each side and the rim. This will tell you if your wheel is out of true. if it is, take it in to your LBS and have them true and dish the wheel. You should probably do this anyway. It's usually only $20-$30 per wheel.
If it's still off, take the rear wheel off and take a long piece of string and loop it around the head tube and bring each end back through the dropouts. Tie the ends off between the dropouts and then measure the distance from the string on each side to the seat tube. They should be relatively equal (it's probably not going to be perfectly equal but it should be close). If the distance on one side is significantly different from the other, then you may have a bent frame or chain stay. cool thing about steel is that they may be able to bend it back if it's not too far out and not cracked. Cold-setting the rear spacing is also usually a relatively nominal cost.
If it's still off, take the rear wheel off and take a long piece of string and loop it around the head tube and bring each end back through the dropouts. Tie the ends off between the dropouts and then measure the distance from the string on each side to the seat tube. They should be relatively equal (it's probably not going to be perfectly equal but it should be close). If the distance on one side is significantly different from the other, then you may have a bent frame or chain stay. cool thing about steel is that they may be able to bend it back if it's not too far out and not cracked. Cold-setting the rear spacing is also usually a relatively nominal cost.
#828
Full Member
#829
Newbie
Flip the bike upside down and gently set it on the seat and handlebars (you can put towels down to protect them from scratches or dirt). Loosen the rear wheel and make sure it's all the way down in the dropouts and tighten. Check the wheel at the chain stay bridge and the brakes and see if it's evenly spaced. If not, you can sometimes loosen and play with the axle position a bit to get it centered in both spots. When it's centered, tighten it down. Spin the rear wheel and watch the distance between the brake pads on each side and the rim. This will tell you if your wheel is out of true. if it is, take it in to your LBS and have them true and dish the wheel. You should probably do this anyway. It's usually only $20-$30 per wheel.
If it's still off, take the rear wheel off and take a long piece of string and loop it around the head tube and bring each end back through the dropouts. Tie the ends off between the dropouts and then measure the distance from the string on each side to the seat tube. They should be relatively equal (it's probably not going to be perfectly equal but it should be close). If the distance on one side is significantly different from the other, then you may have a bent frame or chain stay. cool thing about steel is that they may be able to bend it back if it's not too far out and not cracked. Cold-setting the rear spacing is also usually a relatively nominal cost.
If it's still off, take the rear wheel off and take a long piece of string and loop it around the head tube and bring each end back through the dropouts. Tie the ends off between the dropouts and then measure the distance from the string on each side to the seat tube. They should be relatively equal (it's probably not going to be perfectly equal but it should be close). If the distance on one side is significantly different from the other, then you may have a bent frame or chain stay. cool thing about steel is that they may be able to bend it back if it's not too far out and not cracked. Cold-setting the rear spacing is also usually a relatively nominal cost.
Thanks nathand for confirming!
Last edited by tairy; 07-12-22 at 12:13 PM.
#830
Newbie
It's possible someone messed with the axle spacing but the tire sits too far to the left (NDS) correct? There doesn't seem to be much space on the DS. If that's the case and it's relatively true, it probably needs to be re-dished or the frame might be bent...or both. I'd check the frame with the string test previously described. If you take it to get it trued and dished, you might want to think of what you want to do with the bike. If that's a Shimano hyperglide cassette, you can swap out the hub body ($30-$50) and upgrade to 9-speed. If you plan to do that, wait, because you'll need to get the axle spaced properly and likely will need to get the wheel dished anyway. If you're going to leave it as is, take it in and get it re-dished.
#831
Junior Member
It might be time to admit that I have a problem. I really need to stay away from Marketplace for a while. I started with the 720 Multitrack I posted here recently, then found a really sweet 950 Singletrack for cheap, and today I just bought this awesome 730 Multitrack for $60. How could I pass on a 730 in this good condition for that cheap? I have only ridden it briefly, but I think the 21" frame is going to be more comfortable for me than the 23" 720.
Likes For Hydrilla:
#832
Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2022
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
That wheel is WAY out. Person before you probably jacked it all up. The wheel was made incorrectly. Did the bike shop not help you? Just get a new wheel
Last edited by Brizn; 07-13-22 at 06:50 PM.
#833
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: NJ
Posts: 680
Bikes: 68 SS, 72 Fuji Finest, 72 PX-10, 77 Pana Pro 7000, 84 Pinnarello Treviso NR, 84 Trek 520, 88 Project KOM, 90 Trek 750, 91 Trek 930
Liked 229 Times
in
157 Posts
I understand; you are not alone.
It might be time to admit that I have a problem. I really need to stay away from Marketplace for a while. I started with the 720 Multitrack I posted here recently, then found a really sweet 950 Singletrack for cheap, and today I just bought this awesome 730 Multitrack for $60. How could I pass on a 730 in this good condition for that cheap? I have only ridden it briefly, but I think the 21" frame is going to be more comfortable for me than the 23" 720.
__________________
Last new bike 1991
Last new bike 1991
#834
Full Member
Join Date: Jun 2022
Location: San Diego, California USA
Posts: 388
Bikes: 1974 Masi GC, 1982 Trek 728 (aka 720), 1992 Trek Multitrack 750 (Stolen), 2023 Bike Friday Diamond Llama (Fat Boi Edition)
Liked 308 Times
in
164 Posts
It might be time to admit that I have a problem. I really need to stay away from Marketplace for a while. I started with the 720 Multitrack I posted here recently, then found a really sweet 950 Singletrack for cheap, and today I just bought this awesome 730 Multitrack for $60. How could I pass on a 730 in this good condition for that cheap? I have only ridden it briefly, but I think the 21" frame is going to be more comfortable for me than the 23" 720.
#835
It might be time to admit that I have a problem. I really need to stay away from Marketplace for a while. I started with the 720 Multitrack I posted here recently, then found a really sweet 950 Singletrack for cheap, and today I just bought this awesome 730 Multitrack for $60. How could I pass on a 730 in this good condition for that cheap? I have only ridden it briefly, but I think the 21" frame is going to be more comfortable for me than the 23" 720.
#836
Newbie
I actually just noticed that it looks like whoever owned this bike before me tried to correct it with a washer used as a spacer on the left side of the wheel. I noticed the rear wheel needed to be trued when I first bought it but it didn't occur to me the fork may be misaligned as well.
I second the diagnosis of a bent frame/chain stay or incorrectly dished wheel, with greater suspicion of the latter. If you rule out a bent frame or chain stay, I second the prior advice to get another wheel. If you're around Atlanta I may be able to hook you up with a good used one n/c - just hit my dm's. If at some point you get into wheel building, you can use your old wheel for another project if the hub and rim has enough life left in them.
Last edited by ja1124; 07-17-22 at 07:53 PM. Reason: added bent chain stay as a reason
#837
Newbie
It might be time to admit that I have a problem. I really need to stay away from Marketplace for a while. I started with the 720 Multitrack I posted here recently, then found a really sweet 950 Singletrack for cheap, and today I just bought this awesome 730 Multitrack for $60. How could I pass on a 730 in this good condition for that cheap? I have only ridden it briefly, but I think the 21" frame is going to be more comfortable for me than the 23" 720.
#838
Newbie
Just a friendly fyi - your bike has one fork and the front wheel is inserted in it.
I second the diagnosis of a bent frame/chain stay or incorrectly dished wheel, with greater suspicion of the latter. If you rule out a bent frame or chain stay, I second the prior advice to get another wheel. If you're around Atlanta I may be able to hook you up with a good used one n/c - just hit my dm's. If at some point you get into wheel building, you can use your old wheel for another project if the hub and rim has enough life left in them.
I second the diagnosis of a bent frame/chain stay or incorrectly dished wheel, with greater suspicion of the latter. If you rule out a bent frame or chain stay, I second the prior advice to get another wheel. If you're around Atlanta I may be able to hook you up with a good used one n/c - just hit my dm's. If at some point you get into wheel building, you can use your old wheel for another project if the hub and rim has enough life left in them.
Next, I replaced the original bars with these more upright bars with sweep I know this is probably a little unusual for this kind of hybrid bike but I noticed my right knee which has been prone to some tightness issues, seems to feel that tightness after riding this bike. I don't know anything about bike geometry, but am starting to think that perhaps having a slightly forward riding position is necessary on this type of frame. One thing I changed is that I had a C9 big wide comfy seat on it and just replaced it with a thin Giant saddle. The C9 was placed back all the way. I thought I should have my entire butt on the seat while trying to remain upright. Now the new saddle is forward and I tried to even ride on the bars near the stem so I was forward at times. I feel like my knees feel more comfortable in this position even though perhaps not as great on my shoulders. Do you think I should try going back to the original bars that have a little rise?
Also, what to do Multitrack owners with baskets or racks like to use? I decided I don't really like having a big rack on the back because it makes it more clunky when I park it on a rack or trying to lean the wheel against a tree or post. I'd like something I could throw my lock in, my backpack and carry a small amount of groceries. I was thinking perhaps a small front rack with a removable basket?
#839
Newbie
Go to Sheldon Brown's web site and do some reading. There is a wealth of information here from the very basics about bikes to all sorts of technical/mechanical instructions. Read up on bike fit and proper riding position and things like that. Knee pain could be from being in the wrong position if your knee joint is forward or behind the pedal axle when the cranks are parallel to the ground. Could also be that you just have bad knees.
these hybrids are all-rounders, meaning you can outfit and ride them however you choose. The geometry is relaxed, so cruiser bars work just fine. The short top tube means you have a lot of adjustment in your reach by replacing the stem. If you get a quill step adaptor, you can use modern threadless stems and handlebars. I did this on my 790.
.
these hybrids are all-rounders, meaning you can outfit and ride them however you choose. The geometry is relaxed, so cruiser bars work just fine. The short top tube means you have a lot of adjustment in your reach by replacing the stem. If you get a quill step adaptor, you can use modern threadless stems and handlebars. I did this on my 790.
.
#840
Newbie
Go to Sheldon Brown's web site and do some reading. There is a wealth of information here from the very basics about bikes to all sorts of technical/mechanical instructions. Read up on bike fit and proper riding position and things like that. Knee pain could be from being in the wrong position if your knee joint is forward or behind the pedal axle when the cranks are parallel to the ground. Could also be that you just have bad knees.
these hybrids are all-rounders, meaning you can outfit and ride them however you choose. The geometry is relaxed, so cruiser bars work just fine. The short top tube means you have a lot of adjustment in your reach by replacing the stem. If you get a quill step adaptor, you can use modern threadless stems and handlebars. I did this on my 790.
.
these hybrids are all-rounders, meaning you can outfit and ride them however you choose. The geometry is relaxed, so cruiser bars work just fine. The short top tube means you have a lot of adjustment in your reach by replacing the stem. If you get a quill step adaptor, you can use modern threadless stems and handlebars. I did this on my 790.
.
Really cool bike! I like the color scheme and the seat looks super comfy. I think I've identified my issue since mine is an ebike convert. As I mentioned, I've been experiencing right knee pain while riding my Tongsheng converted Trek Multitrack bicycle. My partner said my knees look like they're bowed inward and looks awkward. In fact I've been feeling a lot of right knee pain since riding this bike. My other bike is a non e-bike Peugeot road bike and the distance between the seat tube and the crank arm is less than 50.8mm. The Tongsheng converted Trek distance between tube and crank arm is around 88.9mm. I think I may need to find a set of crank arms that will be compatible to this motor.
#841
Senior Member
[QUOTE=xaztec;22578470 If you get a quill step adaptor, you can use modern threadless stems and handlebars. I did this on my 790.
.[/QUOTE]
Your adapter looks great on the 790, sometimes they end up looking awkward.
.[/QUOTE]
Your adapter looks great on the 790, sometimes they end up looking awkward.
__________________
80 Mercian Olympic, 92 DB Overdrive, '07 Rivendell AHH, '16 Clockwork All-Rounder
80 Mercian Olympic, 92 DB Overdrive, '07 Rivendell AHH, '16 Clockwork All-Rounder
#843
Full Member
Join Date: Jun 2022
Location: San Diego, California USA
Posts: 388
Bikes: 1974 Masi GC, 1982 Trek 728 (aka 720), 1992 Trek Multitrack 750 (Stolen), 2023 Bike Friday Diamond Llama (Fat Boi Edition)
Liked 308 Times
in
164 Posts
Any chance we could have a close up of the e system? I'm kinda curious about how that stuff is put together and whatnot.
And if you don't mind what does a setup like that run?
And how do you like it, has it met or exceeded your expectations?
My big test for stuff like this, would you do it again knowing now what you know?
Inquiring minds wouldn't mind knowing.
And if you don't mind what does a setup like that run?
And how do you like it, has it met or exceeded your expectations?
My big test for stuff like this, would you do it again knowing now what you know?
Inquiring minds wouldn't mind knowing.
#844
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 3,744
Bikes: Puch Marco Polo, Saint Tropez, Masi Gran Criterium
Liked 471 Times
in
336 Posts
I am converting a Trek Multitrack to a road commuter bike. I had is powder coated and no longer have the decals. I don't remember but it may have been a 720 or a 750. The powder coating is a nice powder blue. Does anyone know where I can order a head tube badge and some decals?
#845
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Kips Bay, NY
Posts: 2,248
Bikes: Ritchey Swiss Cross | Teesdale Kona Hot | Haro Extreme | Specialized Stumpjumper Comp | Cannondale F1000 | Shogun 1000 | Cannondale M500 | Norco Charger | Marin Muirwoods 29er | Shogun Kaze | Breezer Lightning
Liked 1,060 Times
in
515 Posts
I am converting a Trek Multitrack to a road commuter bike. I had is powder coated and no longer have the decals. I don't remember but it may have been a 720 or a 750. The powder coating is a nice powder blue. Does anyone know where I can order a head tube badge and some decals?
Likes For DorkDisk:
#846
Newbie
Any chance we could have a close up of the e system? I'm kinda curious about how that stuff is put together and whatnot.
And if you don't mind what does a setup like that run?
And how do you like it, has it met or exceeded your expectations?
My big test for stuff like this, would you do it again knowing now what you know?
Inquiring minds wouldn't mind knowing.
And if you don't mind what does a setup like that run?
And how do you like it, has it met or exceeded your expectations?
My big test for stuff like this, would you do it again knowing now what you know?
Inquiring minds wouldn't mind knowing.
So you have to buy the motor. My setup is a mid drive motor. It's pretty easy to install as long as you have the tool to take out the bottom bracket. The motor I bought was from Tongsheng TSDZ2. It's 36v and 300w so it's on the lower powered side but can go about 21 mph on flats. with assist. There's another called Bafang that's pretty similar. My motor cost $290 and the compatible battery had to bought separate. These rang anywhere from lower $100s to as much as you want to spend. I spend $280 on the battery because I had the supplier use Samsung cells. Some cheaper cells don't hold a charge as well over time.
If you're interested in retrofitting your ebike with an electric motor I'm happy to answer more questions. You should also check out the forum Endless Sphere. The people there are just truly helpful and geeky about anything ebike. I can give you links to where I bought my battery and motor too if you're interested in doing a similar setup.
#847
Newbie
I am converting a Trek Multitrack to a road commuter bike. I had is powder coated and no longer have the decals. I don't remember but it may have been a 720 or a 750. The powder coating is a nice powder blue. Does anyone know where I can order a head tube badge and some decals?
Likes For bdumas35:
#848
Newbie
Just a friendly fyi - your bike has one fork and the front wheel is inserted in it.
I second the diagnosis of a bent frame/chain stay or incorrectly dished wheel, with greater suspicion of the latter. If you rule out a bent frame or chain stay, I second the prior advice to get another wheel. If you're around Atlanta I may be able to hook you up with a good used one n/c - just hit my dm's. If at some point you get into wheel building, you can use your old wheel for another project if the hub and rim has enough life left in them.
I second the diagnosis of a bent frame/chain stay or incorrectly dished wheel, with greater suspicion of the latter. If you rule out a bent frame or chain stay, I second the prior advice to get another wheel. If you're around Atlanta I may be able to hook you up with a good used one n/c - just hit my dm's. If at some point you get into wheel building, you can use your old wheel for another project if the hub and rim has enough life left in them.
My 7 speed cassette
I was looking at getting a pair of these EVO Tour 20 wheels. It's made for Shimano HG 8, 9 or 10 speed cassettes. I saw on a reply on the REI page that you can use spacers for it to accept a 7 speed cassette. If this is the case, has anyone ever done this and if so how tricky is it to get to work? Would I just need one spacer?
EVO 20 rear wheel
For a pair I could get them for around $133 which seems pretty cheap. If you think these are too bottom of the line, do you have any suggestions on a good quality set of wheels that are fairly inexpensive and would work with my bike?
#849
Newbie
#850
Newbie