How do you feel about moustache bars? (Also, post your moustache bar conversion.)
#26
Senior Member
Back in the day when Bridgestone did their great illustrated catalogs and Ibis was building the scorcher, I lusted after the moustache bar. A few years ago I bought some and I was really disappointed when they hurt my wrists. I love the look, and may give them a second chance.
#27
Senior Member
I kind of like the look, but have to admit that I find them pretty uncomfortable for riding.
#28
Senior Member
I don't like them yet. They're on my Surly Cross Check, and I don't get as many positions as I expected. Perhaps it's the wrong type of bike. Or perhaps I'd like them better if they were higher or closer. I can't tell. I'm very bent over on them, which is unsuitable for in-town rides. And the bike is too heavy for a long ride. Help!
https://www.stanford.edu/~dru/moustache.html
#30
Wookie Jesus inspires me.
Your stem is too short. Does that frame fit you? It looks tiny.
https://www.stanford.edu/~dru/moustache.html
https://www.stanford.edu/~dru/moustache.html
Noglider - if those don't work for you, I'm not sure moustache bars will work for you. Try porteurs?
#31
Senior Member
You use a taller stem with a shorter reach. The opposite of short is tall.
#32
Wookie Jesus inspires me.
No one uses "tall" to describe a threadless stem. You use stems with higher "rise" as stated verbatim in the link that you put up.
Did you forget that the opposite of short is also long?
Nice try.
#37
- Bikes Not Bombs -
#39
Senior Member
Randy, your bikes look great (as always). I think I'm going to try you setup on my grocery getter.
Are there different diameters of moustache bars or do bar-ends fit in any of them?
Are there different diameters of moustache bars or do bar-ends fit in any of them?
#41
Senior Member
I found a set that I'm in the process of building up. The ones I got from Soma are mtb diameter so I'm using 8 speed LX integrated shift/brake levers on the flats and the plan is to put interrupter levers where most people put their road brake levers. The idea being it can be used for cruising around town, but can also be used to be a bit more aero if one wants to while descending for example and still use the brakes. Either it'll be cool or really dumb, ugly, and ineffective, and I'm not 100% sure which. First I've got to finish painting the bike.
Ant
#42
Get off my lawn!
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Posted by jim hughes
#43
Hopelessly addicted...
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How do you feel about moustache bars? (Also, post your moustache bar conversion.)
I will be putting a moustache bar on my wife's Claude Butler. I think they look great, but have not ridden one yet. The bar Raleigh used on the Lenton Tourist is similar in some ways.
Lenton Tourist - 18 by Sallad Rialb, on Flickr
Lenton Tourist - 18 by Sallad Rialb, on Flickr
#44
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I kind of like the look, but have to admit that I find them pretty uncomfortable for riding.
My experience with them is limited but what I discovered when I switched from a drop bar was increased control when climbing out of the saddle and a different position over the frame which made the bike more stable (tracked straighter) when really hammering away. On the down side, because the hand positon is much wider, my twitchy Competition GS is even more twitchy. This is fixed by gripping the bars more towards the center when signaling for a turn, grabbing the water bottle, etc.
I eneded up mounting my brake levers a little more toward the ends then most set up I see, I tend to ride more at the bar ends in traffic and only stretch out onto the curves on open roads. In all, it's nice to have something a little different.
#45
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I find them very comfortable. This set up has seen many long rides:
#46
Building a better Strida
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So I picked up an '87 Miyata 312 not really knowing whether it'd be a flipper or a keeper. I know it's not high end, but I have a soft spot for Miyatas. I've got a few other vintage road bikes, so I was planning on turning this one into a more casual comfortable, yet sporty bike.
....
If you've got one, post it!!
....
If you've got one, post it!!
This is exactly what i embarked on when I was figuring out how to fit this middle-of-the-road Miele into my stable. Its clean and seen few kms so I figured it was worth keeping, but the next goal was to make it worth RIDING...
I'm a bit surprised with the number of riders that couldn't make it work for them.. I was also under this mystery, but on my road frame, lemme summarize what got it working for me:
1. its more than just the front end.
I found that the bars, even with a shorter stem didn't just fit with my saddle positioned as I would normally have it on my other road bikes - they all have notable saddle-to-bar drop. Moustache bars work better if they are the same height as the saddle and that requires 2 things outside of raising the stem..
2. lowering the saddle, which also makes you have to increase set-back to fit properly. This combo puts more weight on your rear - thus reducing the weight off the wrists.
3. angling the bars properly.
brake hoods should be level or just raised slightly, this allows for another hand position on the hoods for a very controllable 'sit and beg' posture on the bike. Combined with the increased stability of more weight on the saddle still allows for some aero if you tuck in the elbows and you are 80% into that preying-mantis posture that gets the legs going. The ends of the bars should be angled the same as drops on your roadie - since its latitude is raised, the ends point at the rear brake caliper mount
4. fit the bike according to where your hands are in the hooks.
with your hands straight ahead, fit the bike according to your hands on the hooks with your fingers on the brake levers. Consider this the primary hand position - similar to as if you were riding a flat bar.
Highly optional
5. get a wider saddle
more of your weight will be centered here, than on a typical road-fit.
6. position the brake hoods inside the bars around ~ 12cm of each other. Moving them outside of this throws away a very usable hand-position
The other hand positions are:
outside for climbs and handling loose stuff,
outer hooks - for control leaning into twisties,
flat into the hooks for downhills - knuckles straight ahead - easy reach brake levers,
thumbs hooked into the hoods - speed - pinkies on the brakes,
hands close to stem - cruising.
This must be why there is so much pain on the palms and wrists here, since flat bars can't really be dropped far below the saddle - but the secret of the moustache bar is wrenching the past the front of the bike to make this bar fit.
These bars transformed this bike and I've put 250+ kms on it in the last month of dirt/crushed gravel/boardwalks/farmers markets/picking up take-out food/day-care drop-offs/pick-ups, etc. up to 60km per ride. The bars really work for doing it all.
I rode this bike so much recently that between traffic lights and parking lots, the toe-clip-fender-overlap finally got to me and I had to modify the front fender, but thats for another post......!
Last edited by trueno92; 08-31-12 at 09:52 PM. Reason: pics
#49
Senior Member
Nashbar had these on sale for $9 so I bought a couple. They turned out to work very well for me. I find them very comfortable. They have more drop than Nittos. They're Chromoly with a nice looking finish that has a blue cast to it. A tall stem with minimal extension works best for me.
I put the other moustache bar on this. It's very uncomfortable for me. I'm too stretched out. My arms aren't long enough. I built it to sell it, so I was more concerned with cool looks than comfort. I never did get around to selling it, so it hangs in the garage after being ridden once.
I put the other moustache bar on this. It's very uncomfortable for me. I'm too stretched out. My arms aren't long enough. I built it to sell it, so I was more concerned with cool looks than comfort. I never did get around to selling it, so it hangs in the garage after being ridden once.
#50
Senior Member
bingo.
This must be why there is so much pain on the palms and wrists here, since flat bars can't really be dropped far below the saddle - but the secret of the moustache bar is wrenching the past the front of the bike to make this bar fit.
These bars transformed this bike and I've put 250+ kms on it in the last month of dirt/crushed gravel/boardwalks/farmers markets/picking up take-out food/day-care drop-offs/pick-ups, etc. up to 60km per ride. The bars really work for doing it all.
I rode this bike so much recently that between traffic lights and parking lots, the toe-clip-fender-overlap finally got to me and I had to modify the front fender, but thats for another post......!
This must be why there is so much pain on the palms and wrists here, since flat bars can't really be dropped far below the saddle - but the secret of the moustache bar is wrenching the past the front of the bike to make this bar fit.
These bars transformed this bike and I've put 250+ kms on it in the last month of dirt/crushed gravel/boardwalks/farmers markets/picking up take-out food/day-care drop-offs/pick-ups, etc. up to 60km per ride. The bars really work for doing it all.
I rode this bike so much recently that between traffic lights and parking lots, the toe-clip-fender-overlap finally got to me and I had to modify the front fender, but thats for another post......!
__________________
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),1990 Concorde Aquila(hit by car while riding), others in build queue "when I get the time"
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),