Alternative Pedal Remover Tool
#26
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I can see both sides of this. Yes, any good pedal wrench works fine used properly. Some of us have trouble remembering how we did jobs last time (perhaps years ago) and forget that technique. The OP's silly wrench would be so idiot proof. Strand beside the bike, lean over the TT, fit that wrench over the far pedal while it is down. Use. No surprises. Not even at midnight before the big ride.
And total aside re: not so tight pedals unscrewing from one who has half his life's mileage on fix gears. Not so tight pedals and unscrewing - a safety feature. The only time a pedal unscrews is when the bearings start going to h*** and the bearing drag exceeds the wrenching force. Pedal bearings reverse the torque direction on the pedal axle. One side is threaded in reverse to both self-tighten when the bearings are healthy. If the pedal unscrews, guess what? Your bearings need help!. One of my fix gear nightmares is the pedal bearings seizing and destroying my foot and ankle. So - if my fix gear pedal ever unthreads, I'll be saying "thank you God, for not letting me sock that pedal on tight!"
And total aside re: not so tight pedals unscrewing from one who has half his life's mileage on fix gears. Not so tight pedals and unscrewing - a safety feature. The only time a pedal unscrews is when the bearings start going to h*** and the bearing drag exceeds the wrenching force. Pedal bearings reverse the torque direction on the pedal axle. One side is threaded in reverse to both self-tighten when the bearings are healthy. If the pedal unscrews, guess what? Your bearings need help!. One of my fix gear nightmares is the pedal bearings seizing and destroying my foot and ankle. So - if my fix gear pedal ever unthreads, I'll be saying "thank you God, for not letting me sock that pedal on tight!"
#27
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Some bike tools are pretty specialized. I suspect there’s a good reason the “middle” pedal wrench was never invented.
#28
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Again, you are trying to justify your own inexperience to already existing quality tools that work fine in the industry.
It's not the tool's fault if you have no idea what you are doing.
Again, my suggestion is to leave it to your local bike shop to prevent further self inflicted injury.
There's a good reason why gas powered chainsaws, pnuematic roofing nail guns, 15 amp circular saws, are best left for professionals despite being easily buyable at any local Home Depot. Human limbs lost by "first injury" doesn't prompt the manufacturers to redesign already good tools for complaining amputees. Licensed contractors prevent.
It's not the tool's fault if you have no idea what you are doing.
Again, my suggestion is to leave it to your local bike shop to prevent further self inflicted injury.
There's a good reason why gas powered chainsaws, pnuematic roofing nail guns, 15 amp circular saws, are best left for professionals despite being easily buyable at any local Home Depot. Human limbs lost by "first injury" doesn't prompt the manufacturers to redesign already good tools for complaining amputees. Licensed contractors prevent.
#29
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Using the PW3 or the PW4 you REALLY have to be doing it wrong to bang your hand on the sprocket.
I use one (1) hand on the wrench. one hand on the frame and with either park tool you can strip the threads out of the crank arm.
I use one (1) hand on the wrench. one hand on the frame and with either park tool you can strip the threads out of the crank arm.
#30
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It is all in the techniques but I always reach for the Park Tool PW-4 or this Bikehand version. Both give plenty of leverage even for the toughest pedal. Also have a PW-3 but don't care for it since it has both a 155mm and a 9/16" side, never found a need for it even with all the old bikes we service.
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Last edited by JoeTBM; 06-09-23 at 02:49 AM.
#31
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Again, you are trying to justify your own inexperience to already existing quality tools that work fine in the industry.
It's not the tool's fault if you have no idea what you are doing.
Again, my suggestion is to leave it to your local bike shop to prevent further self inflicted injury.
There's a good reason why gas powered chainsaws, pnuematic roofing nail guns, 15 amp circular saws, are best left for professionals despite being easily buyable at any local Home Depot. Human limbs lost by "first injury" doesn't prompt the manufacturers to redesign already good tools for complaining amputees. Licensed contractors prevent.
It's not the tool's fault if you have no idea what you are doing.
Again, my suggestion is to leave it to your local bike shop to prevent further self inflicted injury.
There's a good reason why gas powered chainsaws, pnuematic roofing nail guns, 15 amp circular saws, are best left for professionals despite being easily buyable at any local Home Depot. Human limbs lost by "first injury" doesn't prompt the manufacturers to redesign already good tools for complaining amputees. Licensed contractors prevent.
dave
#32
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I'd like to jump in here with a couple of comments.
First, I agree with 79pmooney that there is no reason to install pedals with gorilla torque. Moderately tight is plenty and, as noted, pedal threads are designed to self tighten so they won't come loose spontaneously. I've always installed pedals with moderate force and in 250,000+ miles have never had one come loose by itself.
Second, If you have to remove a badly over tightened or corrode pedal, Fit the pedal wrench in place and rap on the end with a rubber mallet rather than applying steady (and awkward) pressure. That way the wrench doesn't slip and shock will break loose the threads.
First, I agree with 79pmooney that there is no reason to install pedals with gorilla torque. Moderately tight is plenty and, as noted, pedal threads are designed to self tighten so they won't come loose spontaneously. I've always installed pedals with moderate force and in 250,000+ miles have never had one come loose by itself.
Second, If you have to remove a badly over tightened or corrode pedal, Fit the pedal wrench in place and rap on the end with a rubber mallet rather than applying steady (and awkward) pressure. That way the wrench doesn't slip and shock will break loose the threads.
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#37
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You're right I'm sure.
And here I was thinking that this worked pretty good for that purpose. Kick stands too. Anything 8mm hex
I can do this all day son. I have been collecting tools for 50 years.
Last edited by Schweinhund; 06-09-23 at 07:48 PM.
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#38
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To the OP, if you really want to do this:
1. Get a shop to waterjet if from a piece of steel and harden it with a torch, roll your own handle.
2. Something like McMaster Carr PN 5524A32 with a crows foot as mentioned earlier in this thread, https://www.mcmaster.com/5524A32.
3. Make friends with a welder.
Personally I like a long generic pedal wrench oriented correctly, but I’m half your age with only half the injuries.
1. Get a shop to waterjet if from a piece of steel and harden it with a torch, roll your own handle.
2. Something like McMaster Carr PN 5524A32 with a crows foot as mentioned earlier in this thread, https://www.mcmaster.com/5524A32.
3. Make friends with a welder.
Personally I like a long generic pedal wrench oriented correctly, but I’m half your age with only half the injuries.
#39
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To the OP, if you really want to do this:
1. Get a shop to waterjet if from a piece of steel and harden it with a torch, roll your own handle.
2. Something like McMaster Carr PN 5524A32 with a crows foot as mentioned earlier in this thread, https://www.mcmaster.com/5524A32.
3. Make friends with a welder.
1. Get a shop to waterjet if from a piece of steel and harden it with a torch, roll your own handle.
2. Something like McMaster Carr PN 5524A32 with a crows foot as mentioned earlier in this thread, https://www.mcmaster.com/5524A32.
3. Make friends with a welder.
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#40
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#41
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The method described at least twice above (pedal forward, handle back, push down) is so simple and safe, yet not intuitive, it needs to be taught. The only time I step in at a work stand in the non-profit shop is to stop someone from hurting themselves, or even once a customer.
I spent much of my childhood working with and for my father, a plumber. He taught me many necessary lessons on tool safety, often after a needless injury. One of those lessons was to always consider what will happen when the tool slips, or the piece of work breaks.
I spent much of my childhood working with and for my father, a plumber. He taught me many necessary lessons on tool safety, often after a needless injury. One of those lessons was to always consider what will happen when the tool slips, or the piece of work breaks.
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#43
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FWIW, I strongly disagree with that statement. But it isn't like I have used one for this application.
From a personal perspective, this tool would allow you to use 1/2 the shoulder force (per shoulder) as both shoulders would be directly applying torque to the spindle (and applying no other forces).
dave
From a personal perspective, this tool would allow you to use 1/2 the shoulder force (per shoulder) as both shoulders would be directly applying torque to the spindle (and applying no other forces).
dave
#44
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Okay.
I made a mockup of your tool by cutting a 15mm notch at the 18 inch mark on an old yardstick.
My theory was borne out.
Or do this experiment: Try to use your actual pedal wrench without holding onto the pedal (this is essentially 1/2 of your wrench concept). Use one or both hands on the wrench. What happens? Go ahead. I’ll wait…
Get a proper pedal wrench and learn how to use it to avoid injury. There’s a reason a pedal tool of this design doesn’t exist.
I made a mockup of your tool by cutting a 15mm notch at the 18 inch mark on an old yardstick.
My theory was borne out.
Or do this experiment: Try to use your actual pedal wrench without holding onto the pedal (this is essentially 1/2 of your wrench concept). Use one or both hands on the wrench. What happens? Go ahead. I’ll wait…
Get a proper pedal wrench and learn how to use it to avoid injury. There’s a reason a pedal tool of this design doesn’t exist.
Last edited by smd4; 06-10-23 at 05:06 PM.
#45
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the Suntour Bear Traps i just removed from a Touring bike have a 5mm allen socket AND 15mm flats available.. and what appears to be shin meat still attached to them... might be arm or knuckle meat though... i didn't ask..
#46
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As to the "overtightened pedals" discussion operating as a sub-thread in this thread..... MOST are the reverse thread side.. anyone care to guess how they get "overtightened"?
And then.. there's the Ancient cottered cranks with well over a half century of rust...
and the self-loosening box store garbage with soft metal (i can't bring myself to calling it "steel"...) and insanely loose-cut threads...
Last edited by maddog34; 06-10-23 at 05:24 PM.
#47
Does anyone make a pedal wrench that has the an open end 15mm socket in the middle so you can conveniently push and pull up/down rather than using some kind of conventional wrench (where your pressure tends to move the bike/pedal and when the pedal breaks free bad things can happen)?
#48
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dave
#49
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Such a silly wrench would make things even harder and cumbersome with more in the way.
Again, the OP really just needs to use their LBS to prevent any more inexperienced DIY accidents.
Last edited by soyabean; 06-11-23 at 06:43 AM.
#50
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Last edited by DaveLeeNC; 06-11-23 at 07:32 AM.