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Old 05-24-24, 01:40 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by tiger1964
Cool! But maybe not so much as "the most versatile tool we had in the 1970s" where the three arms were 8mm, 9mm and 10mm sockets. I should peel off the rubberized coating on the one I have, no idea if it's labeled Park or not. Of course, now you can build an entire bike using only Allen wrenches.
The 8-9-10 mm Y wrench was one of my most used tools, I don't recall who made it but it was just the right size, enough leverage and also fit in small spaces.
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Old 05-24-24, 06:12 PM
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How good are the IKEA allen wrenches that they include with their DIY assembled furniture. I think I have a few of them collected over the decades :-)
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Old 05-24-24, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Sy Reene
How good are the IKEA allen wrenches that they include with their DIY assembled furniture.
Don’t know. I usually trash them and use my Park 3-way.
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Old 05-24-24, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Sy Reene
How good are the IKEA allen wrenches that they include with their DIY assembled furniture. I think I have a few of them collected over the decades :-)
Absolute garbage:
There was a lovely thraggiegrads about the differences between hex wrenches:
Hex Key Brand Comparison (photo intensive)
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Old 05-26-24, 07:12 PM
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If you are building a lot of Ikea get a cordless drill driver with a clutch.
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Old 06-02-24, 06:36 AM
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What tools would you prioritize getting the highest quality version (torque wrenches? allen wrenches? bottom bracket removal tools?)
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Old 06-02-24, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by puppychow
What tools would you prioritize getting the highest quality version (torque wrenches? allen wrenches? bottom bracket removal tools?)
The conventional wisdom is to get the highest quality version of any tool you buy. They generally function better and last longer.

That said, most any name brand tool will be just fine. You don’t need the most expensive iteration of any particular tool. My less-expensive frame and dropout alignment tools function the same as more expensive versions.

You may find that you prefer one manufacturer’s version of a tool over another. The Hozan fourth hand is, to me, far superior to the Park or Pedro’s versions, for example.

Last edited by smd4; 06-02-24 at 08:45 AM.
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Old 06-02-24, 09:25 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by puppychow
What tools would you prioritize getting the highest quality version (torque wrenches? allen wrenches? bottom bracket removal tools?)
I would prioritize the tools you use the most but in the end all of them. The reason you buy high quality tools is because they are cheap because they work well, are well made and won't cause issues with what you are working with.

Cheap tools are for rich people who can afford to buy new tools and parts all the time. If there is a process you don't want to buy a tool for because you will only use it once then bring the bike to your local shop and have them take care of it. It is not a bad thing and could save you some time and hassle.
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Old 06-02-24, 11:12 AM
  #34  
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Are Park Tools still made in the USA? If China, then it may not matter if it's counterfeit, it's probably from the same factory anyway.

If your concern is durability, take a hacksaw to it. If it cuts easily, it's not tool steel. If the hacksaw blade won't bite, you're good to go
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Old 06-02-24, 12:50 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by pdlamb
The problem with counterfeits is you don't know if it matters until you know that it matters. Take your cone wrench for example. The real, name-brand tool (it's not just Park, could be Var, Pedro's etc.) is made of good quality steel. When you start to lock the cone down against the nut, it's going to hold. Some counterfeits may use similar steel; some others may use a cheap metal, and when you start to lock it down, the "tool" can deform and slip, and you bust your knuckles.

If you believe price trumps quality, buy the cheap knock-offs. Sometimes you'll win. Sometimes you'll bleed, or damage whatever you were working on.
I've always found that Park's cone wrenches were only mediocre quality. Stamped steel? The jaws tend to get chewed up pretty quickly.

Other Park tools seem to be reasonably good quality, or in some cases exceptional quality.
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Old 06-02-24, 05:17 PM
  #36  
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After replacing my entire drivetrain and still having a weird rear shifting issue I finally broke down and got a derailleur alignment tool.

I've usually kept with genuine Park Tool but this time for a single use I went for the Toopre (on amazon) which, at less than half price, is pretty much indistinguishable from the real thing.
If anything, the welds are nicer on the Toopre than in the photos on Park Tools' website.
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Old 06-03-24, 07:06 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by CliffordK
I've always found that Park's cone wrenches were only mediocre quality. Stamped steel? The jaws tend to get chewed up pretty quickly.

Other Park tools seem to be reasonably good quality, or in some cases exceptional quality.
That's so far from my experience I have to wonder what the differences are between our experiences. I've been using a pair of DCW-1 (or is it -2?) and a SCW-17 for 15-20 years without any problems. I'm not working in a shop, mine get used on a couple bikes' wheels annually -- light duty. In addition, I only use mine on cones and lock nuts; I've got better tools for other uses. So when did you get yours, and how do you use them?
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Old 06-03-24, 08:41 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by pdlamb
That's so far from my experience I have to wonder what the differences are between our experiences. I've been using a pair of DCW-1 (or is it -2?) and a SCW-17 for 15-20 years without any problems. I'm not working in a shop, mine get used on a couple bikes' wheels annually -- light duty. In addition, I only use mine on cones and lock nuts; I've got better tools for other uses. So when did you get yours, and how do you use them?
Same. Park cone wrenches were and are used in shop service every day. Nothing whatsoever wrong with them.
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