How short is your stem?
08-27-06, 06:03 PM
#26
Jacko nose historian
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Salt Lake City!
Posts: 671
Bikes: 2006 52cm Trek 2200, Specialized Rockhopper (gets infrequent use unfortunately)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by The Fixer
Hmm.....I think most people will quickly adapt to this 'twitchiness'. I personally don't notice any diff in steering response or twitchiness when I make stem length changes.
Of course I tend always to notice details in everything. It's my personality, it's my career. In a way, it's my passion. In other words, I'm anal. So it is very possible that I was just getting irritated about things that are too subtle to most people.
So there are two reasons that you could be right Fix. Personally I feel that the less I have to adapt to the bike, the more energy I will have, subconsciously and not, to give to my performance. Again though, that's just my experience.
08-27-06, 06:07 PM
#27
Jacko nose historian
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Salt Lake City!
Posts: 671
Bikes: 2006 52cm Trek 2200, Specialized Rockhopper (gets infrequent use unfortunately)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by voltman
100mm stock on a 52cm Fuji Team Pro. I swapped it for a 110mm.
So I guess as shorties, 110 is an even longer stem for us by comparison.
08-27-06, 06:17 PM
#28
climber has-been
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Palo Alto, CA
Posts: 7,572
Bikes: Scott Addict R1, Felt Z1
Liked 4,136 Times
in
2,038 Posts
I have a 110 stem on a 56 cm Fuji. Sometimes it feels a little stretched out when I'm on the hoods, but the drops when descending--and tops when climbing--feel just fine.
Since I spend about 80% of the time climbing on the tops, that's what matters to me the most. Here's a photo, you be the judge:
Since I spend about 80% of the time climbing on the tops, that's what matters to me the most. Here's a photo, you be the judge:
__________________
Ride, Rest, Repeat. ROUVY: terrymorse
Ride, Rest, Repeat. ROUVY: terrymorse
Last edited by terrymorse; 01-05-07 at 11:46 AM.
08-27-06, 06:25 PM
#29
Senior Member
Stem length: Inversely proportional to the total square inches of cloth in the girlfriend's bathing suit.
08-27-06, 06:42 PM
#30
Senior Member
80mm on my Bertoni and the seat is moved forward quite a bit. The frame fits me pretty well, I just prefer a little more upright position as my back will start to ache if I'm bent over too much. The Nishiki I just bought looks to be the same size as my Bertoni and it also has an 80mm stem, but when I ride it I feel really stretched out. My Bianchi came with a 100mm stem and I swapped it for an 80mm and a wider handlebar, and afterward the handling felt slightly quicker. Not sure if it was the increase in leverage or my body position. Maybe both?
08-27-06, 07:05 PM
#31
Jacko nose historian
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Salt Lake City!
Posts: 671
Bikes: 2006 52cm Trek 2200, Specialized Rockhopper (gets infrequent use unfortunately)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Lamplight
80mm on my Bertoni and the seat is moved forward quite a bit. The frame fits me pretty well, I just prefer a little more upright position as my back will start to ache if I'm bent over too much. The Nishiki I just bought looks to be the same size as my Bertoni and it also has an 80mm stem, but when I ride it I feel really stretched out. My Bianchi came with a 100mm stem and I swapped it for an 80mm and a wider handlebar, and afterward the handling felt slightly quicker. Not sure if it was the increase in leverage or my body position. Maybe both?
Yeah so with consideration of Lamp's statement here I should explain that when I say that "I'll probably never ride anything shorter than 110 again" I also mean I'll never have a top tube/seat angle that requires me to have a shorter stem than 110 either.
This is kinda interesting, I think, because most people are probably going to think "consider the right frame size first then worry about the stem". I tend to think it's better to just consider the complete package as a whole, to get the perfect fit (i.e. if you have to have a 90 stem because of the frame size you should consider a smaller frame size). There are just so many variables you know. In my case, I have actually ebay'ed a 2 month old bike to down size the frame just to make it possible to get the 110 stem. ...Best move I've made.
Again guys n gals, this is just me.
Last edited by theshoemaker; 08-27-06 at 07:10 PM.
08-27-06, 10:08 PM
#32
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 176
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Drag
I picked up my new bike a few weeks ago.
In the store it fit me fine from what I can tell - spun on the rollers for a few minutes.
However, after getting it home and riding it some more, I feel like I'm reaching forward more than I'd like to, even with the saddle pushed forward.
I have a 100mm stem on it at the moment, but am considering a 60mm or 70mm.
My standover height seems fine. I can stand over the frame, feet flat on the ground and still be able to comfortable raise the front wheel 3 inches.
Is such a short stem normal, or should I have gotten a smaller frame size?
Maybe I have short arms...
In the store it fit me fine from what I can tell - spun on the rollers for a few minutes.
However, after getting it home and riding it some more, I feel like I'm reaching forward more than I'd like to, even with the saddle pushed forward.
I have a 100mm stem on it at the moment, but am considering a 60mm or 70mm.
My standover height seems fine. I can stand over the frame, feet flat on the ground and still be able to comfortable raise the front wheel 3 inches.
Is such a short stem normal, or should I have gotten a smaller frame size?
Maybe I have short arms...
How about some info on your hieght, inseam, arm wingspan (from fingertips to fingertips), TT length, seat to handlebar drop? 60 or 70 sounds awefully short.
08-27-06, 10:13 PM
#33
100% USDA certified
In the past I've been able to get rid of some short-stem twitchiness by tightening the headset a little more. It firms up the steering and sometimes gives you a little better handling.
08-27-06, 11:11 PM
#34
Cardiac Case
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Dropped... about 5 miles back...
Posts: 2,893
Bikes: Trek, Cannondale, Litespeed, Lynskey
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
2 Posts
Hey Rman -
The bike in question is a 51cm 2005 Litespeed Tuscany.
The top tube length is 52.5".
The saddle to handlebar drop is 2-3/4".
I did some measurements tonight...
My height = 5'-5" (Gosh, and I always thought I was 5'-6"
)
My inseam = 29-3/4"
My wingspan = 68-1/2"
I'm using 170mm cranks if that helps any.
Thanks for any input.
The bike in question is a 51cm 2005 Litespeed Tuscany.
The top tube length is 52.5".
The saddle to handlebar drop is 2-3/4".
I did some measurements tonight...
My height = 5'-5" (Gosh, and I always thought I was 5'-6"
)My inseam = 29-3/4"
My wingspan = 68-1/2"
I'm using 170mm cranks if that helps any.
Thanks for any input.
08-28-06, 01:31 AM
#35
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 176
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Drag
Hey Rman -
The bike in question is a 51cm 2005 Litespeed Tuscany.
The top tube length is 52.5".
The saddle to handlebar drop is 2-3/4".
I did some measurements tonight...
My height = 5'-5" (Gosh, and I always thought I was 5'-6" )
My inseam = 29-3/4"
My wingspan = 68-1/2"
I'm using 170mm cranks if that helps any.
Thanks for any input.
The bike in question is a 51cm 2005 Litespeed Tuscany.
The top tube length is 52.5".
The saddle to handlebar drop is 2-3/4".
I did some measurements tonight...
My height = 5'-5" (Gosh, and I always thought I was 5'-6"
)My inseam = 29-3/4"
My wingspan = 68-1/2"
I'm using 170mm cranks if that helps any.
Thanks for any input.
Judging from your windspan (assuming you don't have abnormally wide shoulders) your arm length appears normal. Your inseam for your hieght looks okay - so you do not have a short upper body. Moving your seat forward should not be a permanent fix. Try flipping the stem first (god forbid - but just to try to see if the bars are too low). You might be feeling that the bars are too low as opposed too extended.
Last edited by Rman; 08-28-06 at 02:01 AM.
11-01-06, 12:50 AM
#36
It is fantastic.
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: The OC
Posts: 7,977
Bikes: 05 Specialized Allez Elite; 06 Fuji Team Pro
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by voltman
100mm stock on a 52cm Fuji Team Pro. I swapped it for a 110mm.
11-01-06, 06:16 AM
#37
Carpe Diem
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: MABRA
Posts: 13,149
Bikes: 2007 CAAD9; 2014 CAADX; PedalForce CG1
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
90mm
__________________
"When you are chewing the bars at the business end of a 90 mile road race you really dont care what gear you have hanging from your bike so long as it works."
ΛΧΑ ΔΞ179 - 15% off your first Hammer Nutrition order!
"When you are chewing the bars at the business end of a 90 mile road race you really dont care what gear you have hanging from your bike so long as it works."
ΛΧΑ ΔΞ179 - 15% off your first Hammer Nutrition order!
11-01-06, 06:41 AM
#38
59'er
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Alexandria, IN
Posts: 3,307
Bikes: LeMond Maillot Jaune, Vintage Trek 520 (1985), 1976 Schwinn Voyageur 2, Miyata 1000 (1985)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times
in
4 Posts
I try to stay between 100 and 120 on stem length. My Lemond with the long top tube is a 100 mm and my old Trek is a 120.
__________________
11-01-06, 11:48 AM
#42
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 7,681
Bikes: Pedal Force QS3
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
12cm and I'm about to go to 13cm. I ride small frames (51-52cm) which I believe have shorter top tubes to accommodate for the higher percentage of women riders buying them as opposed to size 56 and up. I use a 12cm stem even with a 54cm top tube.
11-01-06, 12:01 PM
#43
Double Secret Probation
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Eastern Indiana
Posts: 2,578
Bikes: Madone 6 series SSL, Cannondale CX9, Trek TTX, Trek 970, Trek T2000
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
4 Posts
I run several lengths, 120's on the Trek and Bianchi, 130 on my Cannondale, and 140's on the tandems. Total reach is within 1 cm for all of them.
John
John
11-01-06, 02:11 PM
#44
Banned.
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Orange County, California
Posts: 508
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I can't believe this has not been mentioned. #1, NEVER use fore and aft seat positioning to adjust reach.
#2, You have to take into account the amount of reach your bars have. An 80mm stem and a bar with 95mm reach has the same "overall reach" as a 100mm stem and a bar with 75mm reach.
#2, You have to take into account the amount of reach your bars have. An 80mm stem and a bar with 95mm reach has the same "overall reach" as a 100mm stem and a bar with 75mm reach.
11-01-06, 02:57 PM
#45
Warrior Cyclist
Originally Posted by The Carpenter
I can't believe this has not been mentioned. #1, NEVER use fore and aft seat positioning to adjust reach.
#2, You have to take into account the amount of reach your bars have. An 80mm stem and a bar with 95mm reach has the same "overall reach" as a 100mm stem and a bar with 75mm reach.
#2, You have to take into account the amount of reach your bars have. An 80mm stem and a bar with 95mm reach has the same "overall reach" as a 100mm stem and a bar with 75mm reach.
__________________
Just Do It..
Just Do It..
11-01-06, 03:12 PM
#46
Mitcholo
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Oost Vlaanderen in mind, Cleveland in body
Posts: 8,850
Bikes: 2010 Mitcholo w/ Sram Force/Red
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I've got a 140mm, but I think I'll go with a 120mm. It's not too long, but just not as comportable as I'd like it to be. I ride a 54cm Cannondale CAAD8
11-01-06, 03:15 PM
#47
It is fantastic.
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: The OC
Posts: 7,977
Bikes: 05 Specialized Allez Elite; 06 Fuji Team Pro
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by CrimsonKarter21
I've got a 140mm, but I think I'll go with a 120mm. It's not too long, but just not as comportable as I'd like it to be. I ride a 54cm Cannondale CAAD8
11-01-06, 04:50 PM
#48
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 898
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I've ridden with a 100mm stem for 6 years; then one day I changed my bar to a Ritchey WS Biomax cyclo cross drop bar which had a 6 degree recess. With the change of the bar I ended up having to get a 120mm stem to make my reach correct on the bike. The thing I notice about going to a longer stem was that it felt more stable riding fast on downhill S turns. I was tolded by many before that a longer stem was stable and up until a couple of years ago I would have thought different. But now I'm quite comfortable with the longer stem, it feels better to me personally.
Last edited by rmwun54; 11-01-06 at 04:55 PM.
11-01-06, 05:00 PM
#49
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: NorCal
Posts: 300
Bikes: Giant OCR1
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I have a 90mm stem on my Medium TCR. It kind of feels like I'm a bit too extended when I'm on the hoods so I'm going to give an 80mm a shot within the next few days.
11-01-06, 05:16 PM
#50
Senior Member
My 54cm bike started out with a 90mm stem. As I got more fit and more limber and stronger I got longer and longer stems to let me get lower with a flatter back. I'm at a 135mm stem now and it doesn't feel too cramped up and doesn't make me stick my elbows out when I'm in the drops.
