georges1

I agree

prj71

Yup. Technology changes. And now we have better brakes.

ussprinceton

just got this '12 SuperSix Evo HiMod team edition 56cm from eBay for <$1,300. It has Sram Force 22 shifters and rear derailleur. The previous owner had it set-up as a climber, with an 11-40T cassette and 42T single ChainRing. I already have a complete Shimano Ultegra R8000 GroupSet that I will have a shop install.

Chuck M 

I've read online that disk brakes are hard to work on because they require constant bleeding and fluid changes. I've also read that in a crash the disk can cut off an appendage. Neither is true so IMHO that shouldn't rule out anything for the OP. For what the OP is wanting to spend, I guess there may be more rim brake bike options in that price range. And because they OP said they are wanting to get into road bikes, I don't think we can conclude that they are new to bikes although that may be a possibility.

Were I the OP, I would do as suggested above and visit a bike shop where they are knowledgable about sizing bikes correctly and talk to the staff to get answers. The bike shop may not have the bike the OP wants or can afford, but they will be armed with a little more knowledge.

zacster

Interesting. I set up this bike for my daughter, also with a Super Six Evo. Frame was $500, parts came from her former bike that was too small. The seat height is set for me to test ride it, as are the clipless pedals.

Dave Mayer

I work on bikes every day. Discs, particularly hydraulic discs are a lot more trouble and expense than rim brakes, and for the vast majority of road/hybrid riders more trouble than they are worth.

But the bike industry wanted a sweeping changeover of the bike fleet for revenue purposes, so now we have inappropriate tech ported over from the MTB world which renders road bikes heavier, less aero and harder to maintain. Such as dics, and other nonsense such as hookless, tubeless etc. Plus this stuff is a lot more expensive.

Best option for a all-round road/gravel bike purchase: a used last-gen rim brake 'cross bike with V-brakes such as the outstanding TRP 8.4s. As powerful as any mechanical discs I've ever used, and super easy to install and maintain.

13ollocks

I recently bought a '98 Litespeed Classic frame on eBay for $400 (~$500 inc shipping and tax)- IMO you can't go wrong with used Ti - there's no corrosion to consider, and if it isn't obviously traumatized, it's good to go. The downside, of course, is that you're limited to narrower tires (the Classic maxes out at 25mm), rim brakes and mechanical- or fully wireless shifting, but if you don't see these as major impediment (and I don't), there are good Ti frames out there for not much $$

Camilo

I rode a frame like that (Jamis Nova Pro) for many years as an "all road" bike before gravel bikes became a thing. It did everything I wanted it to, and my current hydraulic disc bike does no better for any of the riding I do. I did change the gearing on the Jamis because traditional cyclocross gearing is stupid for the riding I do. I love my 3 rim brake road bikes and they lack for nothing. I'm preserving and caring for my Felt Z CF road bike because I'm not sure there will be CF rim brake road bike frames in the next 10 years.

Note: not a "hater", just relating my experience.

Camilo

Second this recommendation.

I have one of those (96 Classic frameset). Not really applicable to the OP's search. but this frame looks like new after I spent less than an hour buffing it with maroon scotchbrite and putting new decals on it. But even before that, it looked fine, certainly not 25 years old (at the time). Cleaning involves a hose or a rag and spray bottle.

razorjack

Basically any frame before ~2018. You didn't mention what kind of road bike, racy, endurance/more relax, for commuting or backpacking ?

Trav1s

I like the Trek 2300 for an older option and a rim brake Synapse for a newer option. I grabbed a 2016 Synapse (105) frame/fork/headset/seatpost on eBay for $130 plus shipping and will finish it over the winter.

SoSmellyAir

I have a 2016 Synapse CF and it rides great. I am also halfway through installing a 105-R7000 groupset onto a 2000 CAAD4.

ArgoMan

+1 for getting a good used bike or frame off eBay or other online sellers. I've bought several eBay frames and built them up. It can be a bit intimidating, but if you have some knowledge, a willingness to learn, and a good LBS that will assemble the parts, then you may wish to build a frame out. I started with a Scapin Pro Racer Geoid frame, which has got to be one of the most underrated steel frames of all time, and built it out over time. It was $125. The entire build, with exceptionally excellent aluminum wheels, cost me about $1,500. It's now simply a fantastic, fast bike. There is not an ounce of carbon on it! You can do it for less.

georges1

Totally agree. The scapin used a custom columbus genius or nemo tubing which provides fantastic riding qualities which are as good as carbon, high end alumniums or titanium tubings

veganbikes

Disc brakes are not more of a hassle and not problematic all the time. Neither are most rim brakes as well. Really if you get decent brakes and set them up properly and keep them maintained (clean with isopropyl alcohol and replace worn parts) nothing should really be a problem. Yes potentially hydraulic disc brakes require more knowledge to set up or bleed them but you don't really do it often.

Those that have problems with disc brakes probably need some more time learning to work on them or need something of more quality. Nothing wrong with rim brakes either but disc brakes are not super problematic unless you make them problematic. I know some of our young interns complain about their disc brakes on their mountain bikes constantly and then we look at them and no issues and they feel great. They sometimes get contaminated but they are mountain bikes and they are ridden by kids doing tricks and being pretty wild and rowdy. Most disc brakes don't really see those issues or non-issues.

Keep in mind if my rim is out of true or a spoke breaks I am generally out that brake or really bad rubbing with disc brakes that isn't a factor and with hydraulic disc brakes there is zero cables to fray or friction to be had and if you bleed it properly you probably won't need to bleed it for quite a while and you will get some excellent modulation. Plus I can generally get better braking from a lower cost hydro disc brake than a lower cost rim brake from the factory with upgrades I can get a rim brake to work much better but even an entry level Shimano hydraulic brake or a Tektro brake is going to stop better than my old single pivot Dura Ace brakes and especially in the wet.

However if you want a rim brake frame that is fine, I have plenty of rim brake bikes (at least 5 vs 6 disc brake bikes). As others have said if you can find a known quantity and quality titanium frame you can sometimes get a good deal but know what you are looking at and what size you need. In the end Habanero makes some decent frames for not a ton of money and frequently Lynskey or Litespeed have sales if you wanted new. A new bike does get you all the warranties and support and usually clearance for a wider tire. I would be careful of used carbon and look for any dents on used aluminum and probably pass. Steel of good quality can be nice but a vintage bike might not be the desired geometry or rear spacing you want so keep that in mind but you can find frames easily enough.

ArgoMan

I just slapped some Swiss Stop pads on my 105 rim brakes. Wow! They really stop well! I have to be careful not to apply too much pressure.

Laducsp

i agree here. When i got into road cycling in ~07, i planned to get something decent and spend abt 1000 -1200 bucks. I spent 2500 on an Orbea. The up spec materials quality and performance i got out of the bike helped motivate me and make me want to ride whenever i could. Search the web, grab some demos and pick what rides best for you. That’s how i chose mine. Then maybe check out Pro’s Closet and online to find a deal.