hidetaka

Soul Kozak (the only PL lightweight hub maker I can think of) is still in business, but it seems their road hubs are light but no longer ultra lightweight (108g front, 215g rear). Kinlin is still a popular choice, it's not like any major company is putting much money in developing alloy rim brake products.
I've been considering building an alloy set (but chose to get ripped off on a set of Ksyrium SLS in poor condition instead...) and DT Swiss R460 rims + CX-Rays + Novatec 511/522 hubs could be built to ~1450g, according to a reputable builder.

Yan 

It's these guys from Poland who specialize in track hubs. I'm sure there are lighter hubs now but when I built those wheels, these guys were one of the lightest on the market, at least for track hubs.

https://mackhubs.com/

It was a fixed gear wheelset for an early 80s Colnago that I picked up when I was living in Rome. The bike was a low end model back in the day but turned into an incredible fixed gear bike with some modern parts. To date the only fixed gear bike I've ever ridden a century on.

roadcrankr

If you spend some time looking around online, you can still find quality rim-brake wheelsets.
I ride CF Campagnolo Bora Ultras (Shimano freehub) on one of my bikes.
Over 12k miles with the proper pads and imperceptible rim wear. I like the version with subdued decals.
These stop fine, although not as well as the aluminum-tracked Dura Ace wheelset on another rig. 40k miles!
Both of these available new or used. My Dura Ace set is tubeless-ready, but I use tubed tires.

SoSmellyAir

These appear to be tubular wheels; note the large T. Compare them to the ones with the large C (i.e., clincher) shown in this review: Review: DT Swiss RRC 65 Dicut clinchers | road.cc

So do you want to ride tubular or clincher tires?

2muchroad

I don't really care honestly, either is fine. I'll only be riding this briefly before I sell it. I'm much more concerned with finding the right wheels. I checked out the other pair today, Swiss Side 800, and was a bit disappointed with the aesthetics. It's amazing how they look immaculate on the pictures but super rough in person. The seller's story about Chinese rebranding with regards to the DT SWISS RRC set turned me off, so I didn't even go there. Oh well, I'll keep looking I guess.

Jrasero

lol, no one is debating that rim brakes in the right conditions are right up there with disc brakes but the issue is when rims brakes are used in dusty and especially wet/icy conditions the track surface becomes like glass. Yeah rim brakes in the wet are usable but just sub optimal and take a ton more skill and planning to brake properly. It's one thing if you have an existing rim brake bike I am not advocating to go out and buy a disc brake bike instead, but on the other hand if you are looking at getting a new bike yeah I would avoid rim brakes period. Disc brake bikes are cheaper than ever and now as light as a lot of rim brake bikes were

bblair

Lynskey Titanium

merlinextraligh

The weight penalty is definitely shrinking, but for the same dollars, the comparable disc brake bike is still heavier. And at the pointy end it’s hard to get a 12-13lb disc brake bike.

That said, given where the market has gone, assuming you’re going to own the bike for awhile, I would definitely go disc for future compatibility alone.

2muchroad

On a Mountain Bike disk brakes make sense, and I would even go so far as to say they're indispensable.
With a Road Bike I'd want disk brakes when riding in the city where you're constantly stopping, sometimes quite abruptly. Especially, with CF wheels.
However, I don't really see the point when you're just riding on designated bike paths and roads for training.

georges1

Disc brakes aren't really indispensable on MTBs unless you are into downhill or into serious freeride competitions. For normal cross country and trail use,very good quality v brakes are more than enough. Before the standardisation of the disc brakes on MTBs in 2006, you had very capable V Brakes made from Ritchey, Paul Components, Avid, TRP and Shimano with the XT 780T V with non deformable paralellograms brakes which give a good bite and stop the bike well. Getting back to the road bikes, carbon wheels with rim brakes are more than enough and plentyful for anyone riding fast and wanting a light wheel with the advantage of good stopping power from dual pivot rim brakes.
My wheels of choice for myroad bikes are the Mavic Cosmic Carbone SSC

followed by the Zipp60

and the Zipp 404

georges1

They are very good wheels but are more suited for triathlons than long road races. A friend of mine has those on his Specialized Venge triathlon bike. I would go with Roval Rapide 60 , it uses DT alongwith Specialized hub technology and DT aero spokes , more comfy if you plan doing long distance racing than triathlon

georges1

Of all them I would take the Roval Ceramic CLX 60 because of its hub quality and durability as well as its polyvalence, the 808 are more triathlon oriented than roadbike racing.

2muchroad

For regular cross country riding and light trails people use gravel bikes now. I think the time has finally come where mountain biking, literally just means mountain biking.
Anyway, I agree that good rim brakes on a MTB work very well too, but the difference between pulling the lever until it breaks with rims and ever so slightly tapping it with disk brakes, to achieve the same stopping power, is noticeable.

Yeah I like the look of those. I can't really decide which depth I should go with. I think 40 - 50mm is most popular and will sell the best. Too much depth will make you look like a dork, especially when you're not really racing or training competitively.
I'd feel stupid showing up on a bike trail with real professionals and seasoned racers, showing off my insane CF aero wheels, but wearing regular shoes, pants, shirt and doing only 5 miles before taking a break.
I'd get them, but I noticed a blemish on the rear wheel. It's clearly not delamination, but only some minor wear/scuffing. I want 15% off for it and we're currently negotiating.

shelbyfv

It would matter to most, but being OK with tubulars may help you find some "bargains" especially in the flashy triathlon wheels you seem to want.

2muchroad

Both get the job done, apparently you feel very strongly about this. I don't care, because I intend to sell this bike. Yes, the reason why I'd be perfectly fine with tubulars is because they vastly increase the range of CF wheels to choose from.
Lastly, I'd appreciate it if you ensured that your quotes are accurate.

shelbyfv

I certainly don't have strong feelings one way or the other for your use. And I agree that there are more likely to be bargain tubulars. Frankly, I wasn't sure that as a newbie you fully understood the commitment tubulars require. FWIW, I can't see any inaccuracies in the quotes.

chaadster

It may not matter, or it may be worth considering, that clinchers would probably increase the value and salability of the bike. Forgive me if you've already considered that.

2muchroad

I don't see why you would assume that. Have I given you any indication that I specifically didn't understand how tubular tyres work?
I would like to point out to you the difference between a "newbie" in terms of the forum's ranking system and an actual newbie. With this crucial difference in mind, it would be equally reasonable for me to inquire your understanding of their inner workings.

And yes, you are altering the text of my quotes by either shortening or emboldening it, thus rendering them inaccurate. If you choose to use the quote function, please do so accurately.

No, because a large portion of used CF wheelsets being offered still use tubular tyres. That's why I'd consider them, because they are more plentiful, usually lower in price and of higher value, but that's already been discussed.

tomato coupe

The OP has no experience with road bikes, and is only interested in flipping them for a profit. I think it would be best to just let him figure this out on his own.

2muchroad

I only said that I didn't have any riding experience with road bikes. Something that I cannot say anymore and clearly unrelated to the theoretical understanding of various tyres.
Surely @shelbyfv understands that he'll receive exactly what he dishes out.

merlinextraligh

If your goal is to flip the bike for a profit, tubulars will significantly limit your market. There are very few people left who want to ride tubulars. That’s why you find great deals on used tubular wheels.

shelbyfv

We can only judge from what you've posted. The questions you asked in your other thread show that you are unfamiliar with bike mechanics (cassette and disc brake comments for example) so nobody wants to see you get in over your head. You certainly wouldn't be the first prospective bike flipper to come here asking very basic questions. That said, your snippy response to people trying to help you leads me to agree we are better off letting you flounder along unaided.

2muchroad

It's a tradeoff. On one hand, there might be potential buyers who specifically have a problem with tubular solutions, on the other hand there are far more tubular CF wheelsets being offered for a considerably lower price and of much higher value.
Edit: But it's not all tubular, post #28 features only clinchers and tubeless except for the Zipps.

For example those Zipps had an MSRP of well over €2,000 2 - 3 years ago and the seller is offering them for 400 - 500€.




@shelbyfv You appear quite toxic. I am not interested in your help or further input, so I would welcome your offer to leave this topic. I will ignore any further messages from you.

shelbyfv

Be sure to let us know how much you make flipping an entry level bike with 75mm triathlon tubies. Or you could run with your proposed conversion to disc and really make a profit.

SoSmellyAir

Hey, maybe there is a time trial coming up in the local market?