rickgoing

Any Clydes with a Lynskey Gr300? How do you like it, What is the weight limit on it? Anything else you would recommend in the $3k or less area for a guy that needs to be more upright due to 7 bulging discs?

I am gravitating towards a gravel bike because it should be built more heavy duty than a standard road bike and from what I have seen they typically have a shorter reach and higher stack than a standard road bike. I have modified my Kestrel with a Ritchey Adjustable stem to reduce the reach and increase the stack but fear that with my current 278lbs down from 292 in July it won't hold up. I also love my bike but it is creaking under my weight even though it's rated at 300lbs which is why I am looking at something else.

Would love to hear what other Clydes are riding and your experience as well as how you have your bike set up to make it more comfortable for us big guys.

PromptCritical 

Congrats on the wieght loss!

I bought a GR300 Frame this summer and built it up from my parts stash and then upgraded most everything, naturally.

Sounds like you have the same leg/torso relative lengths that I do (long legs/short torso) compared to the general population.

I bought the Lynskey GR300 in XL as it's stack/reach ratio is the best I could fine on a production bike. It is very close to a good fit out of the box, but I've had to use a 35mm handlebar stem!

I weighed 225# when I started riding it (now 205# down from a max of #297) and I haven't had any problems. Even @ 297, I didn't have any problems with any of my bikes as long as the tires were properly inflated.

In short, I love the bike!

On you Krestel, I would guess the squeaking is coming from either the bottom bracket or the seat tube (1st choice would be the seat tube).

rickgoing

I actually have short legs for my height. My pants have 32" inseams other than what I wear for hiking where they are 34" but without shoes the 34's drag on the ground.

So you were 297 when you got the Lynskey and had no issues? That's good to hear! Are you primarily riding on or off road? I will primarily riding on the road at least 95% of the time and would most likely get a 2X crankset to have higher gears. Would I need to do anything other than swapping the tires for road? I am looking at gravel bikes because they should be stronger built than standard road frames and two they in general have a shorter reach and higher stack which I need for my back and neck.

The creaking seems to be coming from the head tube but the headset and stem and bars are all tight and torqued to spec. I will check the cranks and tighten them since I have had creaking from it before I got hurt but again it didn't seem to be coming from there.

How do you have your bike set up? I would love to see pics.

mstateglfr 

Comments-
- The Lynskey GR300 can be a good deal from a cost perspective, if the frame geometry is something you like. I dont mean from a fit perspective, I mean from a riding perspective. The frame geometry, to me and many others across the internet, is pretty absurd. But that is based on how we want to ride a gravel bike or a mixed surface bike. For some others, it is probably excellent geometry based on how they ride or what they want in a frame. The steering is going to be very slow/eventual, based on geometry. I prefer a gravel bike that steers and feels more like a paved road bike, because my gravel roads are just unpaved roads and also because I end up riding 20-40% paved roads on most of my gravel rides since I start and end at home.

- Look into the Specialized Roubaix, Specialized Diverge, and Trek Domane. All 3 are very common bikes that have high stack to short reach when compared to a lot of other common bikes in their categories. All can fit at least a 38mm tire and at least 2 can fit wider.

- Also consider Kona Libre and Salsa Vaya as they typically have higher stack and shorter reach.

- Look at the Black Mountain Cycles Mod Zero frame. It too has a relatively high stack height and shorter reach. Pairing it with a shorter stem works well. It has a steel fork and steel steerer, which would allow you to add a lot of spacers if needed and really jack up the handlebars. https://blackmtncycles.com/product-category/mod-zero/

- Look at the Fairlight Secan frame. There are a ton of frame sizes with varying stack and reach since each frame size comes in 'R' and 'T' options. https://fairlightcycles.com/product/...v=7516fd43adaa

- I have an older Black Mountain frame and my current gravel bike is a Fairlight Secan size 61T, which is why I mentioned both. The quality on both is excellent, both brands and frames mentioned receive consistently glowing praise from websites and users, and the geometry on them is well thought out.


***THIS IS WHAT IS MOST IMPORTANT***
You need to figure out what stack and reach you need for your bike. Knowing your current bike is a Kestrel, but not the size or model, doesnt help clarify things. You need to figure out what your stack and reach are for your current bike, as well as your effective stack and reach numbers. Until you know those things, there is little point in comparing geometry since you dont know what you are comparing it to.
A specific brand is pointless to look at- you need to be brand agnostic and search by fit, once you know what you are looking for.

1st step- accurately measure your current bike's stack and reach. https://rideonmagazine.com.au/how-to...ack-and-reach/

• measure vertically ground to the center of bottom bracket and vertically ground to middle of the top of the head tube. The difference is your stack height.
• measure vertically ground to center of handlebars. subtract the ground to center of bottom bracket. The difference is your handlebar stack height...or effective stack height.
• measure level horizontally back wheel to center of bottom bracket level horizontally. Level horizontally measure back wheel to middle of the top of the head tube. The difference is your reach.
• measure level horizontally back wheel to center of handlebars. subtract the back wheel to bottom bracket length. The difference is your handlebar reach length...or effective reach.

2nd step- figure on a max of 40mm of spacers on the steerer tube under the stem, and 20mm of stem height(half of a typical stem). <--this is based on a carbon steerer tube's acceptable max. Then go here and type numbers in- Stem Comparison Tool | yojimg.net

• set your head tube angle.
• set the red stem at 0 for all three measurements.
• set the blue stem at 80mm extension, +17degree angle, and 60mm height(40 spacers and 20 for half of the stem).
• LOOK AT THE RESULT.

3rd step- Look at the geometry of a bunch of bikes and write down the stack and reach numbers. Add the blue stem results to each frame's stack and reach numbers and compare those to your Kestrel's effective stack and reach numbers. If you find frames with more effective stack and less effective reach, that is a really upright frame and one you may want to consider. If you find frames that have more effective stack and more effective reach, change your stem to 70mm and compare again. Both stack and reach will drop, but the reach may work for you then.
Yes a 35deg angle stem could be used too. Hopefully a 17deg angle stem would be enough though, when combined with a frame that has better geometry for you. If needed, change the numbers in the stem comparison tool to show a 35deg angle stem.


As for your weight- any bikes I have mentioned can handle your weight. The wheels just have to be properly built and tensioned.
Thats how little your weight should impact decisions right now- its just worth one line of commentary. Figure out fit, then worry about a build that reliably handles your weight.

mstateglfr 

OP- another thing to consider is what handlebars you use.

- short reach handlebars bring the levers closer.
- rider drop bars prop the bars up another 10-40mm.

Knowing the reach of your current handlebars will help when figuring out what to buy moving forward. If your current bars have 80mm of reach, then buying some with a more compact bend and only 70mm of reach will help. Then combine that with a bar that has 15mm of rise and you just pulled the bars back 10mm and up 15mm.

Specialized Hover bar- 15mm rise, 70mm reach, 12degree flare. https://www.specialized.com/us/en/ho...BoCQ-0QAvD_BwE
Ritchey Ergomax- 10mm rise, 73mm reach, 12degree flare. https://ritcheylogic.com/bike/handle...omax-handlebar
Surly Truckstop- 30mm rise, 74mm reach, 12degree flare. https://www.rei.com/product/219089/s...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

rickgoing

Thank you so much for all of the information. I printed out some of it and will be utilizing it.

mstateglfr 

Best of luck- finding production priced frames that fit can be a slow and/or frustrating experience. I dont have mobility issues, but I am 6'5, so I am at the peak end of production frame sizes and even then, the majority of production frames/bikes that say a 6'5 or 6'6 person fits are really questionable for most adults my height that arent as flexible as Gumby and dont have a Thor level core.
It definitely can be a slow search, but the best way to search is with numbers you are confident in.

In addition to the stack and reach article I linked, youtube is flush with videos that walk you thru how to accurately measure your current bikes stack and reach. Then if you just add the numbers you get for where your handlebars are(I assume your position is comfortable), you can be well on your way to finding a frame or bike with geometry that will work better than your Kestrel.

As a general comment, I have never seen a Kestrel road bike that is anything but race geometry. Kestrel Tri bikes, Kestrel TT bikes, Kestrel race road bikes- every Kestrel I have seen has had relatively aggressive geometry. Even the 'endurance' Kestrel model I saw online somewhere had pretty aggressive fit numbers. Point being- hopefully you can make a bike that has better stack and reach numbers look pretty good without having to resort to too much kludging(adjustable stem at high angle for example).

rickgoing

When I bought the bike the only thing I did was take the stem and flip it to the more upright angle and it was great. Unfortunately things happen but i am not going to let it keep me from one of my passions in life anymore. I took the stem I had on it and held it up to the Ritchey I have on it now and based upon the distance from the steerer to the front of the handle bars it looks to be between 70-80mm and about 2 3/4" higher than the original stem. I bought an 80mm stem for my mountain bike and some rise bars and for some reason it has made my issues worse on the mountain bike (GT Zaskar XL) but has alleviated the pain on the road bike. I think I am going to order a Redshift Sports Top Shelf bar with the 70mm rise and then try the 80mm stem and see how that works. I know I will be far more confident that it won't fail on me and far cheaper in the short term of getting another bike.

The Kestrel I have is an Evoke 59 cm which has similar almost the same specs as the Cannondale Caad 8 except the top tube was 1 cm longer than the 58cm and IIRC 1 cm shorter than the 60 cm frame.

Here are the specs

softreset

I would also look at the Redshift's handlebars to the equation. More rise, even less reach and less drop than the handlebars already mentioned.

https://redshiftsports.com/products/...ndlebar-system or https://redshiftsports.com/products/...rop-bar-system

At my heaviest I was pushing 330 lbs. on my GR300. I put 1000+ miles on it at north of your weight with zero issues. I went with a 32 spoke wheelset from Velomine, Ben is a good dude and has great pricing. At that weight I would discourage even 28 spokes unless you stay on top of them. I considered 36 spoke for some buffer.

From my research for a non-custom builder, Lynskey's stack is pretty high per frame size offering. The BMC Mod Zero is higher though, by a little. Mike is an awesome guy, can't wrong working with him either on a solution. He can be a 'one stop shop' too and build you custom wheels.

I have only excellent things to offer with my GR300 and now a Helix GR. While I'd love to own a No.22 or Firefly, Lynskey has always done right by me and they're a great group to work with when it comes to communication and customer service.

rickgoing

That's great to hear about the durability at your heaviest! I always wanted a Litespeed when the Lynskey's owned it but with young kids could never justify the expense. That green BMC Mod Zero is gorgeous! I always loved the Torelli bikes too and after I commented on one on Instagram regarding the Strade Bianche the owner reached out to me and said they could adjust the geometry to fit me with my flexibility issues. I said I am not ready because first I was afraid that I wasn't going to be able to ride as pain free as I have. Second I was also afraid that the bike fit would change as I got fitter and then it would increase the cost well above my budget.

I am probably going to order the Redshift Top Shelf bars for my current bike and a shorter stem because I am afraid with all of the creaking the adjustable stem is going to fail.

Thanks for the info, congrats on your weight loss and be safe riding!

rickgoing

I spoke to Mike Varley through email and gave him my inseam and some other measurements off my current bike and he told me that I have much shorter legs than most people he has worked with who are 6’2” tall. After getting my measurements he suggested the size 53 Mod Zero with a 100mm stem.

I also ordered a Redshift Top Shelf 70mm drop bar and will swap out the adjustable stem for an 80mm stem I have on my Mtn bike. This should keep me in the same position a with the adjustable stem and I will feel safer for a connection that is much stronger and should have far less creaking.

I was able to bike 108.8 miles since Labor Day and am extremely proud and also shocked with how good I feel with the bulging discs and the 9 year lay off since the injury.

Thanks for all of your help. I think I am going to order the mod zero and the wheels he offers with it and put a 105 groupset with a compact cranked and 11-34 cassette because I will be spending at least 95% of the time on the road.

Be safe and have fun!

mstateglfr 

Mike is a really cool dude and runs an awesome business. Hope the build and fit work out.

RH Clark

Best of luck but personally, I would never dish out that kind of cash for a bike I had not been on, in a size I wasn't sure about.

rickgoing

I understand what you are saying and it has run through my mind. But one I am larger than the maximum weight capacity of most commercially available bikes , two you will almost never have the opportunity to ride a custom frame that is made to your measurements, the same with most high end frames like a Specialized S works or Cervelo to name a couple and finally the frame he is suggesting after I looked it up had very similar geometry to the bike that was my favorite except with a much higher stack. The bike I had with similar geometry was a steel lugged frame and fork with a quill stem that allowed me to play with the stack unlike a precut fork at a bike shop. With this I also have the luxury of having the steerer not cut until I have the fit just right as well as he put together a CAD drawing using my inseam measurements and then off of my bike. He actually was able to match the measurements telling me what size and how many spacers to use, the length of the exposed seat post as well as the setback of the seat. That is pretty impressive to me and more than what I would get at a LBS that wants to get rid of what's currently on the floor.

pipeliner

If you can find one in your budget, a Salsa Cutthroat would be an ideal bike for you. Ti frames can get pretty flexy with real heavy riders.

RH Clark

Personally, I would just go with a steel frame as a big guy. Any difference in weight will be marginal compared to body weight anyway. I mean you could literally just skip a meal and that would be the difference in weight saved over titanium, that is if it's built for a larger rider.

I must admit to a bias against titanium as well just based on the number of cracked frames on the web I've seen over the years. Granted people are likely posting more about broken titanium than any other material but then again if it isn't better -more durable by a larger margin then why spend the money for it?

That being said if you have an itch and the cash to scratch it, life is too short to remain itchy. Best wishes.

Koyote

You would never consider a custom-built frame, then.

RH Clark

To be specific, I likely will never buy a custom frame. If I did, I would make absolutely sure that it was the size and geometry that I already knew worked for me. I also gave that advice before I knew that the OP had a bike with similar specs to compare, so no real need for the snide remark concerning my comment. Have a great day.

Koyote

No snideness intended. It was really more of a question in the form of a statement -- so I probably should've put a question mark at the end.

rickgoing

After speaking with Mike at Black Mountain Cycles about his Model Zero steel frame I think that will most likely be my next bike. It has very similar geometry to a Centurion Steel bike that my wife bought for my birthday the year we were married. The main difference is the new bike has much higher stack which will help with my back and neck.

I also have at the very least a temporary fix. I bought the Redshift Top Shelf 70mm rise and 47cm wide gravel bars and put them on a 80mm stem I had for my mtn bike and have ridden about 45 miles with it in the last two days and this has gotten rid of my fear of the Ritchey Adjustable stem failing on me due to all of the creaking. I actually lowered the stem more on the steerer tube and it feels awesome. Yesterday on my before work 15mile loop I did my 3rd fastest time on the longest Strava Segment even with a broken spoke. The spoke leads me to another dilemma. Being as big as I am and my bike has low spoke count aero rims. They had been flawless until yesterday buy when I rode regularly before my injury 9 years ago I was also about 45 pounds lighter. I won't be able to purchase the bike until after the holidays but thought I could replace the wheels with what I would put on the Model Zero. But the issue is I have QR hubs and rim brakes and the Model Zero has through axles and disc brakes. Before I thought about the thru axle I was thinking a rim brake rim with a hub that I could mount the discs on later.

Are there hubs that would have a high spoke count that I can swap from QR to Thru Axle later or do I just keep riding what i have and deal with broken spokes as they come?

Koyote

Ask Mike Varley at BMC, as he builds lots of wheels. But off the top of my head, I believe DT Swiss 350 hubs come in 32h drillings and are convertible (with different end caps) between QR and TA.