Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions
#6626
2-Wheeled Fool
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Location: New Hampshire
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So I picked up a trek 970,
Not sure if I should do a drop bar conversion , or just put bar ends ?? I will post pics . Would appreciate input or experience .. Also the fork , should I just go ridged and how do I go about getting a correct one , or should I look for a bike that has a rigid fork already 🤔???
(PS , I also have a trek 970 which has a rigid fork already, but I kinda like the upslope top tube for comfort on the 930)
Not sure if I should do a drop bar conversion , or just put bar ends ?? I will post pics . Would appreciate input or experience .. Also the fork , should I just go ridged and how do I go about getting a correct one , or should I look for a bike that has a rigid fork already 🤔???
(PS , I also have a trek 970 which has a rigid fork already, but I kinda like the upslope top tube for comfort on the 930)
#6627
Thrifty Bill
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Mountains of Western NC
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Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
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Rigid frame for SURE. Save the parts you take off the lower one, and go drop bar. Realize if you don't like it, you can always go back.
As far as drop bar hand positions, I just use from the stem to the brake lever. I am not using the drop portion. But even just the part I use, I have dozens of hand positions which really helps!
I would be looking for a shorter stem. Those two are super long. I have pretty much copied the geometry of my road bike with my drop bar conversion. So distance from the nose of the saddle to the handlebars is the same, distance from the saddle to the pedals are the same, etc. I've managed this by watching out on TT length. MTBs are all over the place TT length wise. Some are super long. I had a 1989 High Sierra that had a 1 1/2 inch LONGER top tube than the same size 1988 Schwinn Cimarron. So I went North Roads on the High Sierra.
Measurements above are from my memory, I could be off a little.
On your top bike, that came in two versions, one had a rigid fork. So you could put a chrome MTB fork on it (think co op).
And on stem, hey, maybe that long one will work just fine for YOU. Its all about how it fits YOU.
And on the Rock Combo, one of the early drop bar conversions, just came that way from the factory... While Specialized was busy with Rock Hoppers and Stump Jumpers, they decided to take a shot at it.
Needs pink bar tape and cable housing. I have some. Wheels and saddle are not original. Wheels when acquired did not match, and cones were bad anyway.
Specialized Rock Combo by bill, on Flickr
Specialized Rock Combo by bill, on Flickr
As far as drop bar hand positions, I just use from the stem to the brake lever. I am not using the drop portion. But even just the part I use, I have dozens of hand positions which really helps!
I would be looking for a shorter stem. Those two are super long. I have pretty much copied the geometry of my road bike with my drop bar conversion. So distance from the nose of the saddle to the handlebars is the same, distance from the saddle to the pedals are the same, etc. I've managed this by watching out on TT length. MTBs are all over the place TT length wise. Some are super long. I had a 1989 High Sierra that had a 1 1/2 inch LONGER top tube than the same size 1988 Schwinn Cimarron. So I went North Roads on the High Sierra.
Measurements above are from my memory, I could be off a little.
On your top bike, that came in two versions, one had a rigid fork. So you could put a chrome MTB fork on it (think co op).
And on stem, hey, maybe that long one will work just fine for YOU. Its all about how it fits YOU.
And on the Rock Combo, one of the early drop bar conversions, just came that way from the factory... While Specialized was busy with Rock Hoppers and Stump Jumpers, they decided to take a shot at it.
Needs pink bar tape and cable housing. I have some. Wheels and saddle are not original. Wheels when acquired did not match, and cones were bad anyway.
Specialized Rock Combo by bill, on Flickr
Specialized Rock Combo by bill, on Flickr
Last edited by wrk101; 03-18-20 at 08:43 AM.
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#6628
Senior Member
So I picked up a trek 970,
Not sure if I should do a drop bar conversion , or just put bar ends ?? I will post pics . Would appreciate input or experience .. Also the fork , should I just go ridged and how do I go about getting a correct one , or should I look for a bike that has a rigid fork already 🤔???
(PS , I also have a trek 970 which has a rigid fork already, but I kinda like the upslope top tube for comfort on the 930)
Not sure if I should do a drop bar conversion , or just put bar ends ?? I will post pics . Would appreciate input or experience .. Also the fork , should I just go ridged and how do I go about getting a correct one , or should I look for a bike that has a rigid fork already 🤔???
(PS , I also have a trek 970 which has a rigid fork already, but I kinda like the upslope top tube for comfort on the 930)
#6629
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: SE Wisconsin
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Bikes: Trek 970, Bianchi Volpe,Casati
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Thanks for input. Yeah the 970 is about a 19 , 20 depending how measured I am 6ft..
I already know some one might fit it and I got it for a great price , so might just let him have fir same price. Now the 930 with the upslope toptube seems to fit . Was surprised, does not seem heavy just by lifting it.. I am not that experienced so how do I measure for the fork. ? The head tube or steerer, not sure how called looks a bit larger diameter than the 970. Thanks again.
I already know some one might fit it and I got it for a great price , so might just let him have fir same price. Now the 930 with the upslope toptube seems to fit . Was surprised, does not seem heavy just by lifting it.. I am not that experienced so how do I measure for the fork. ? The head tube or steerer, not sure how called looks a bit larger diameter than the 970. Thanks again.
#6630
Full Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Tucson, AZ
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Bikes: Trek 720, Trek 520, Miyata 1000, Specialized Expedition, Specialized RockCombo, Raleigh Competition GS, Freschi Supreme, Marin Pine Mountain, Soma Smoothie, Surly Cross-Check
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Awesome Rock Combo wrk101!
Slowly making some progress on mine. Decided to use the Specialized Flag crankset on another build and going with Shimano Deore XT paired with Deore DX derailleurs on this one. Hubs are also Deore DX with Specialized Rims. The original stem is way too long for me with the top tube being 59cm, so I still gotta figure that out. Other details for now...
- Specialized Touring Pedals
- Speedic Leather Saddle
- Dia Compe 987 Brakes paired with Deore LX Pad Holders
- Maxxis DTH Tires
1989 Specialized Rock Combo
Shimano Deore XT Crankset
Specialized Touring Pedal
Dia Compe 987 Cantilever Brakes
Slowly making some progress on mine. Decided to use the Specialized Flag crankset on another build and going with Shimano Deore XT paired with Deore DX derailleurs on this one. Hubs are also Deore DX with Specialized Rims. The original stem is way too long for me with the top tube being 59cm, so I still gotta figure that out. Other details for now...
- Specialized Touring Pedals
- Speedic Leather Saddle
- Dia Compe 987 Brakes paired with Deore LX Pad Holders
- Maxxis DTH Tires
1989 Specialized Rock Combo
Shimano Deore XT Crankset
Specialized Touring Pedal
Dia Compe 987 Cantilever Brakes
#6631
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: NPR, Florida
Posts: 83
Bikes: 1984~85 Raleigh Competition, 1985 Raleigh Super Course, 2013 Raleigh Revenio 2.0
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Awesome Rock Combo wrk101!
Slowly making some progress on mine. Decided to use the Specialized Flag crankset on another build and going with Shimano Deore XT paired with Deore DX derailleurs on this one. Hubs are also Deore DX with Specialized Rims. The original stem is way too long for me with the top tube being 59cm, so I still gotta figure that out. Other details for now...
- Specialized Touring Pedals
- Speedic Leather Saddle
- Dia Compe 987 Brakes paired with Deore LX Pad Holders
- Maxxis DTH Tires
1989 Specialized Rock Combo
Shimano Deore XT Crankset
Specialized Touring Pedal
Dia Compe 987 Cantilever Brakes
Slowly making some progress on mine. Decided to use the Specialized Flag crankset on another build and going with Shimano Deore XT paired with Deore DX derailleurs on this one. Hubs are also Deore DX with Specialized Rims. The original stem is way too long for me with the top tube being 59cm, so I still gotta figure that out. Other details for now...
- Specialized Touring Pedals
- Speedic Leather Saddle
- Dia Compe 987 Brakes paired with Deore LX Pad Holders
- Maxxis DTH Tires
1989 Specialized Rock Combo
Shimano Deore XT Crankset
Specialized Touring Pedal
Dia Compe 987 Cantilever Brakes
#6632
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,753
Bikes: 1986 KHS Fiero, 1989 Trek 950, 1990 Trek 7000, 1991 Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo, 1992 Trek 1400, 1997 Cannondale CAD2 R300, 1998 Cannondale CAD2 R200, 2002 Marin San Rafael, 2006 Cannondale CAAD8 R1000, 2010 Performance Access XCL9R
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Thanks for input. Yeah the 970 is about a 19 , 20 depending how measured I am 6ft..
I already know some one might fit it and I got it for a great price , so might just let him have fir same price. Now the 930 with the upslope toptube seems to fit . Was surprised, does not seem heavy just by lifting it.. I am not that experienced so how do I measure for the fork. ? The head tube or steerer, not sure how called looks a bit larger diameter than the 970. Thanks again.
I already know some one might fit it and I got it for a great price , so might just let him have fir same price. Now the 930 with the upslope toptube seems to fit . Was surprised, does not seem heavy just by lifting it.. I am not that experienced so how do I measure for the fork. ? The head tube or steerer, not sure how called looks a bit larger diameter than the 970. Thanks again.
#6634
Senior Member
#6635
Thrifty Bill
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Mountains of Western NC
Posts: 23,561
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
Liked 1,010 Times
in
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Thanks for input. Yeah the 970 is about a 19 , 20 depending how measured I am 6ft..
I already know some one might fit it and I got it for a great price , so might just let him have fir same price. Now the 930 with the upslope toptube seems to fit . Was surprised, does not seem heavy just by lifting it.. I am not that experienced so how do I measure for the fork. ? The head tube or steerer, not sure how called looks a bit larger diameter than the 970. Thanks again.
I already know some one might fit it and I got it for a great price , so might just let him have fir same price. Now the 930 with the upslope toptube seems to fit . Was surprised, does not seem heavy just by lifting it.. I am not that experienced so how do I measure for the fork. ? The head tube or steerer, not sure how called looks a bit larger diameter than the 970. Thanks again.
On size everyone is different. But I find on a true MTB I go for an 18 inch frame size. On a road bike I tend to go with a 22 inch frame size. With a drop bar conversion, I end up in the 19 to 20 inch size. 18 is too small, 20 is pushing it. Note, I have to be careful with TT length as some get silly long. As I recall, my 1988 Cimarron is 19 inch CTT.
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Please don't confuse ebay "asking" prices with "selling" prices. Many sellers never get their ask price. some are far from it. Value is determined once an item actually SELLS. Its easy enough to check SOLD prices.
#6636
Full Member
1997 Scott
Found this interesting Scott full chromo frame with quality dropouts and "suspension geometry" 20.5" CTC.
Budget build using new and used parts. Stable geometry. Climbs like a Billy Goat. (11-34 8 speed cassette, 42 32 22 LX crankset.
Just finished today.
May fender it with SKS for the winter.
Friday update. Bars wrapped.
Budget build using new and used parts. Stable geometry. Climbs like a Billy Goat. (11-34 8 speed cassette, 42 32 22 LX crankset.
Just finished today.
May fender it with SKS for the winter.
Friday update. Bars wrapped.
Last edited by IsleRide; 03-20-20 at 06:51 PM. Reason: Update on build
#6637
Found this interesting Scott full chromo frame with quality dropouts and "suspension geometry" 20.5" CTC.
Budget build using new and used parts. Stable geometry. Climbs like a Billy Goat. (11-34 8 speed cassette, 42 32 22 LX crankset.
Just finished today.
Still have to wrap bars. May fender it with SKS for the winter.
Budget build using new and used parts. Stable geometry. Climbs like a Billy Goat. (11-34 8 speed cassette, 42 32 22 LX crankset.
Just finished today.
Still have to wrap bars. May fender it with SKS for the winter.
#6638
Full Member
I remember them surprisingly able to hook up in the dirt but the inverted tread makes them pavement friendly.
They're now made in India and very affordable. Found them a little hard to mount but not overly so.
#6639
Senior Member
Rigid frame for SURE. Save the parts you take off the lower one, and go drop bar. Realize if you don't like it, you can always go back.
As far as drop bar hand positions, I just use from the stem to the brake lever. I am not using the drop portion. But even just the part I use, I have dozens of hand positions which really helps!
I would be looking for a shorter stem. Those two are super long. I have pretty much copied the geometry of my road bike with my drop bar conversion. So distance from the nose of the saddle to the handlebars is the same, distance from the saddle to the pedals are the same, etc. I've managed this by watching out on TT length. MTBs are all over the place TT length wise. Some are super long. I had a 1989 High Sierra that had a 1 1/2 inch LONGER top tube than the same size 1988 Schwinn Cimarron. So I went North Roads on the High Sierra.
Measurements above are from my memory, I could be off a little.
On your top bike, that came in two versions, one had a rigid fork. So you could put a chrome MTB fork on it (think co op).
And on stem, hey, maybe that long one will work just fine for YOU. Its all about how it fits YOU.
And on the Rock Combo, one of the early drop bar conversions, just came that way from the factory... While Specialized was busy with Rock Hoppers and Stump Jumpers, they decided to take a shot at it.
Needs pink bar tape and cable housing. I have some. Wheels and saddle are not original. Wheels when acquired did not match, and cones were bad anyway.
Specialized Rock Combo by bill, on Flickr
Specialized Rock Combo by bill, on Flickr
As far as drop bar hand positions, I just use from the stem to the brake lever. I am not using the drop portion. But even just the part I use, I have dozens of hand positions which really helps!
I would be looking for a shorter stem. Those two are super long. I have pretty much copied the geometry of my road bike with my drop bar conversion. So distance from the nose of the saddle to the handlebars is the same, distance from the saddle to the pedals are the same, etc. I've managed this by watching out on TT length. MTBs are all over the place TT length wise. Some are super long. I had a 1989 High Sierra that had a 1 1/2 inch LONGER top tube than the same size 1988 Schwinn Cimarron. So I went North Roads on the High Sierra.
Measurements above are from my memory, I could be off a little.
On your top bike, that came in two versions, one had a rigid fork. So you could put a chrome MTB fork on it (think co op).
And on stem, hey, maybe that long one will work just fine for YOU. Its all about how it fits YOU.
And on the Rock Combo, one of the early drop bar conversions, just came that way from the factory... While Specialized was busy with Rock Hoppers and Stump Jumpers, they decided to take a shot at it.
Needs pink bar tape and cable housing. I have some. Wheels and saddle are not original. Wheels when acquired did not match, and cones were bad anyway.
Specialized Rock Combo by bill, on Flickr
Specialized Rock Combo by bill, on Flickr
Last edited by tricky; 03-19-20 at 12:35 PM.
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#6640
Full Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 328
Bikes: Trek 720, Trek 520, Miyata 1000, Specialized Expedition, Specialized RockCombo, Raleigh Competition GS, Freschi Supreme, Marin Pine Mountain, Soma Smoothie, Surly Cross-Check
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Awesome! I didn't know they did a drop bar MTB. Just curious, what's the seat tube CTC and top tube CTC? I am wondering if they shortened the TT on this compared to their flat bar MTBs. Or maybe squarenoise could measure theirs?
I have a Stumpjumper Comp, also from 1989 with a 59cm CTC top tube and seat tube is about 21 1/2" CTC.
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#6641
Full Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 328
Bikes: Trek 720, Trek 520, Miyata 1000, Specialized Expedition, Specialized RockCombo, Raleigh Competition GS, Freschi Supreme, Marin Pine Mountain, Soma Smoothie, Surly Cross-Check
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Edit: found some interesting info about Rock Combos here: https://forums.mtbr.com/vintage-retr...l#post12122919
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#6642
Senior Member
From what I found online, they came in 3 sizes - 17, 19 1/2 and 22, that's seat tubes measured CTC. Mine is the 22 and has a 59cm top tube. The 19 1/2 frame has a 58cm top tube. Not sure of the top tube on the 17" frame.
I have a Stumpjumper Comp, also from 1989 with a 59cm CTC top tube and seat tube is about 21 1/2" CTC.
I have a Stumpjumper Comp, also from 1989 with a 59cm CTC top tube and seat tube is about 21 1/2" CTC.
Nice! thanks for sharing that. Interesting comment about the "heavier tubeset". I read elsewhere that the Rock Combo was on the heavier side, but wondered if it was because of the frame or the components, sooooo I weighed just the frame/fork with headset installed and my 22" came in at 8lbs 11oz. I then weighed my (same size) Stumpjumper Comp and it came in at 8lbs 9oz so pretty dang close, especially considering the Rock Combo has a longer seat tube. Anyhow, I'm a big guy and not concerned about the weight factor, but thought it was interesting.
#6643
Junior Member
Well thought out cable and tape colors. Cool bike
#6644
Junior Member
What kind of handlebars are those? I never really cared much for the speckled tape but you've really made it work well with the frame and cable colors.
#6645
Junior Member
Is that logo Bike Saviors in Tempe?
#6646
Junior Member
Rigid frame for SURE. Save the parts you take off the lower one, and go drop bar. Realize if you don't like it, you can always go back.
As far as drop bar hand positions, I just use from the stem to the brake lever. I am not using the drop portion. But even just the part I use, I have dozens of hand positions which really helps!
I would be looking for a shorter stem. Those two are super long. I have pretty much copied the geometry of my road bike with my drop bar conversion. So distance from the nose of the saddle to the handlebars is the same, distance from the saddle to the pedals are the same, etc. I've managed this by watching out on TT length. MTBs are all over the place TT length wise. Some are super long. I had a 1989 High Sierra that had a 1 1/2 inch LONGER top tube than the same size 1988 Schwinn Cimarron. So I went North Roads on the High Sierra.
Measurements above are from my memory, I could be off a little.
On your top bike, that came in two versions, one had a rigid fork. So you could put a chrome MTB fork on it (think co op).
And on stem, hey, maybe that long one will work just fine for YOU. Its all about how it fits YOU.
And on the Rock Combo, one of the early drop bar conversions, just came that way from the factory... While Specialized was busy with Rock Hoppers and Stump Jumpers, they decided to take a shot at it.
Needs pink bar tape and cable housing. I have some. Wheels and saddle are not original. Wheels when acquired did not match, and cones were bad anyway.
Specialized Rock Combo by bill, on Flickr
Specialized Rock Combo by bill, on Flickr
As far as drop bar hand positions, I just use from the stem to the brake lever. I am not using the drop portion. But even just the part I use, I have dozens of hand positions which really helps!
I would be looking for a shorter stem. Those two are super long. I have pretty much copied the geometry of my road bike with my drop bar conversion. So distance from the nose of the saddle to the handlebars is the same, distance from the saddle to the pedals are the same, etc. I've managed this by watching out on TT length. MTBs are all over the place TT length wise. Some are super long. I had a 1989 High Sierra that had a 1 1/2 inch LONGER top tube than the same size 1988 Schwinn Cimarron. So I went North Roads on the High Sierra.
Measurements above are from my memory, I could be off a little.
On your top bike, that came in two versions, one had a rigid fork. So you could put a chrome MTB fork on it (think co op).
And on stem, hey, maybe that long one will work just fine for YOU. Its all about how it fits YOU.
And on the Rock Combo, one of the early drop bar conversions, just came that way from the factory... While Specialized was busy with Rock Hoppers and Stump Jumpers, they decided to take a shot at it.
Needs pink bar tape and cable housing. I have some. Wheels and saddle are not original. Wheels when acquired did not match, and cones were bad anyway.
Specialized Rock Combo by bill, on Flickr
Specialized Rock Combo by bill, on Flickr
#6647
Junior Member
#6648
Happy banana slug
Join Date: Sep 2015
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Bikes: 1984 Araya MB 261, 1992 Specialized Rockhopper Sport, 1993 Hard Rock Ultra, 1994 Trek Multitrack 750, 1995 Trek Singletrack 930
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#6650
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Join Date: Jan 2015
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PJ943 I'm not tall but to get you started, you shouldn't have any trouble getting the proper reach because most of these bikes have longish to tubes and most of us use a shorter than original stem. MTB seat posts have plenty of length so your saddle height should be easily achieved with a 21" bike. Of the ridged bikes, high end early 90s bikes seem to be the lightest. Have fun.
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I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.
I don't do: disks, tubeless, e-shifting, or bead head nymphs.