Scratched my skinny carbon itch - plus Dura Ace!
#26
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Regardless of how anyone is built the comment wasn't all that left-field given the setup characteristics. Not sure why it seemed to have struck a nerve with you but I was thinking the same thing myself when I saw the angle of the bars and where the hoods were placed. :shrug:
#27
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Northern California
Posts: 9,324
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
Liked 1,387 Times
in
924 Posts
Agreed, certainly not, just not the way that Rando and C&V riders often set up their bikes with the ramps level and with the hoods continuous with the ramps.
As I mentioned, down-sloping ramps to the levers is perfect for aggressive "honking" from the hoods when sprinting, or when attacking steep rollers, leaving the top of the bar at comfortable height for recovering after such efforts.
I should note that adding auxilliary "safety" levers allows for braking from the bar top, making this position safe for tucking behind a peloton (where sudden, hopefully brief, braking might be needed).
On my large Steyr where I fitted a much longer 115mm stem, and on my even larger Nishiki (where I couldn't lower the stepped stem quill any lower so kept the long, original .833" stem), using auxiliary brake levers allowed these longer reaches to the bars to be comfortable by giving said "recovery" position with ready access to good braking effect.
I somewhat dislike today's common combination of short-reach handlebars and integrated levers, mainly because the range of reach is narrower, making the positioning of the handlebars more critical unless the topography and group pace allows one to comfortably assume a semi-casual stance all of the time. So anything that extends the range of reach and drop is a good thing in my view.
And in the vintage-bike realm, I find the shorter drop of the Cinelli 64 bar more constricting, and the tighter radius of the drops painful on the palm area of my hand (requiring thicker padded tape).
If the fits below perhaps look odd, note that both bikes have slack seat tube angles, which makes for shorter reach (though reach as shown is not short for this "mostly leg height" -proportioned of rider.
So the auxiliary levers make for a wide and comfortable range of brake-accessible grip reach.
As I mentioned, down-sloping ramps to the levers is perfect for aggressive "honking" from the hoods when sprinting, or when attacking steep rollers, leaving the top of the bar at comfortable height for recovering after such efforts.
I should note that adding auxilliary "safety" levers allows for braking from the bar top, making this position safe for tucking behind a peloton (where sudden, hopefully brief, braking might be needed).
On my large Steyr where I fitted a much longer 115mm stem, and on my even larger Nishiki (where I couldn't lower the stepped stem quill any lower so kept the long, original .833" stem), using auxiliary brake levers allowed these longer reaches to the bars to be comfortable by giving said "recovery" position with ready access to good braking effect.
I somewhat dislike today's common combination of short-reach handlebars and integrated levers, mainly because the range of reach is narrower, making the positioning of the handlebars more critical unless the topography and group pace allows one to comfortably assume a semi-casual stance all of the time. So anything that extends the range of reach and drop is a good thing in my view.
And in the vintage-bike realm, I find the shorter drop of the Cinelli 64 bar more constricting, and the tighter radius of the drops painful on the palm area of my hand (requiring thicker padded tape).
If the fits below perhaps look odd, note that both bikes have slack seat tube angles, which makes for shorter reach (though reach as shown is not short for this "mostly leg height" -proportioned of rider.
So the auxiliary levers make for a wide and comfortable range of brake-accessible grip reach.
Last edited by dddd; 06-22-24 at 11:30 AM.
Likes For dddd:
#28
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Still not pointing up at the heavens, new lever position on WCS bars and safe stem.
#29
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Agreed, certainly not, just not the way that Rando and C&V riders often set up their bikes with the ramps level and with the hoods continuous with the ramps.
As I mentioned, down-sloping ramps to the levers is perfect for aggressive "honking" from the hoods when sprinting, or when attacking steep rollers, leaving the top of the bar at comfortable height for recovering after such efforts.
I should note that adding auxilliary "safety" levers allows for braking from the bar top, making this position safe for tucking behind a peloton (where sudden, hopefully brief, braking might be needed).
On my large Steyr where I fitted a much longer 115mm stem, and on my even larger Nishiki (where I couldn't lower the stepped stem quill any lower so kept the long, original .833" stem), using auxiliary brake levers allowed these longer reaches to the bars to be comfortable by giving said "recovery" position with ready access to good braking effect.
I somewhat dislike today's common combination of short-reach handlebars and integrated levers, mainly because the range of reach is narrower, making the positioning of the handlebars more critical unless the topography and group pace allows one to comfortably assume a semi-casual stance all of the time. So anything that extends the range of reach and drop is a good thing in my view.
And in the vintage-bike realm, I find the shorter drop of the Cinelli 64 bar more constricting, and the tighter radius of the drops painful on the palm area of my hand (requiring thicker padded tape).
If the fits below perhaps look odd, note that both bikes have slack seat tube angles, which makes for shorter reach (though reach as shown is not short for this "mostly leg height" -proportioned of rider.
So the auxiliary levers make for a wide and comfortable range of brake-accessible grip reach.
As I mentioned, down-sloping ramps to the levers is perfect for aggressive "honking" from the hoods when sprinting, or when attacking steep rollers, leaving the top of the bar at comfortable height for recovering after such efforts.
I should note that adding auxilliary "safety" levers allows for braking from the bar top, making this position safe for tucking behind a peloton (where sudden, hopefully brief, braking might be needed).
On my large Steyr where I fitted a much longer 115mm stem, and on my even larger Nishiki (where I couldn't lower the stepped stem quill any lower so kept the long, original .833" stem), using auxiliary brake levers allowed these longer reaches to the bars to be comfortable by giving said "recovery" position with ready access to good braking effect.
I somewhat dislike today's common combination of short-reach handlebars and integrated levers, mainly because the range of reach is narrower, making the positioning of the handlebars more critical unless the topography and group pace allows one to comfortably assume a semi-casual stance all of the time. So anything that extends the range of reach and drop is a good thing in my view.
And in the vintage-bike realm, I find the shorter drop of the Cinelli 64 bar more constricting, and the tighter radius of the drops painful on the palm area of my hand (requiring thicker padded tape).
If the fits below perhaps look odd, note that both bikes have slack seat tube angles, which makes for shorter reach (though reach as shown is not short for this "mostly leg height" -proportioned of rider.
So the auxiliary levers make for a wide and comfortable range of brake-accessible grip reach.
I don't know why C&V people don't set up their C&V bikes like they were ridden when new when it comes to brake levers and bars. Probably because we are all old.
Last edited by Kontact; 06-22-24 at 05:54 PM.
#30
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The somewhat final version. The lightly used Modolo stem had thread damage on the bar clamp. Replaced with a Cinelli 1A a friend gave me and half a beer can shim. The Cinelli will also go lower into the steerer.
As shown with these wheels it is right at 20 lbs.
#31
About this 'classic' setup is- how do you avoid putting pressure on your carpal tunnel nerves when you are riding on the hoods? I notice in the old photos, a lot of the riders seem to just hook their thumbs around the hood. That seems to be a lot of weight on the thumbs, base of thumb, or thumb webbing:
Do you just somehow get used to using the base of thumb as weight bearing points?
Then again, I do see that they rode (and raced) on the tops quite a bit too:
Do you just somehow get used to using the base of thumb as weight bearing points?
Then again, I do see that they rode (and raced) on the tops quite a bit too:
#32
Senior Member
Thread Starter
About this 'classic' setup is- how do you avoid putting pressure on your carpal tunnel nerves when you are riding on the hoods? I notice in the old photos, a lot of the riders seem to just hook their thumbs around the hood. That seems to be a lot of weight on the thumbs, base of thumb, or thumb webbing:
Do you just somehow get used to using the base of thumb as weight bearing points?
Then again, I do see that they rode (and raced) on the tops quite a bit too:
Do you just somehow get used to using the base of thumb as weight bearing points?
Then again, I do see that they rode (and raced) on the tops quite a bit too:
But I do think that many modern riders treat their hoods like bullhorn bars and use neither the tops nor the drops. Which is too bad. I don't know if it is the need to shift constantly or concerns about steering control or brake access. And certainly many riders are too far forward and have to support a lot of weight on their hands, making it that much harder to move their hands around. Classic fit should allow for a fairly light touch on the handlebars.
Last edited by Kontact; 07-14-24 at 02:39 PM.
Likes For Kontact:
#33
I'm surprised thst there's no dedicated forum for CF C&V bikes like this. These older CF round tubed, aluminum lugged bikes definitely have a beauty of their own.
__________________
72 Line Seeker
83 Davidson Signature
84 Peugeot PSV
84 Peugeot PY10FC
84 Gitane Tour de France.
85 Vitus Plus Carbone 7
86 ALAN Record Carbonio
86 Medici Aerodynamic (Project)
88 Pinarello Montello
89 Bottecchia Professional Chorus SL
95 Trek 5500 OCLV (Project)
72 Line Seeker
83 Davidson Signature
84 Peugeot PSV
84 Peugeot PY10FC
84 Gitane Tour de France.
85 Vitus Plus Carbone 7
86 ALAN Record Carbonio
86 Medici Aerodynamic (Project)
88 Pinarello Montello
89 Bottecchia Professional Chorus SL
95 Trek 5500 OCLV (Project)
#34
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 6,351
Bikes: 1989 Cinelli Supercorsa
Liked 3,302 Times
in
1,985 Posts
Looks pretty nice, but I’d probably shorten that RD cable housing a bit.