bloomjbikes

Thanks to Trav1s for replying in my post in another (wrong) section.

Based on info from the prior posting I have a 1998 Trek 700 Multitrack, 3x7 with mostly Shimano Tourney components. It is all original and in great shape; however the shifting is not good and I hate grip shift. Therefore I’d like to make some upgrades. Looking for specific part suggestions so I get the right stuff. My plan is to make this a really nice path bike with light duty gravel / offroad capability.

According to the catalogs from the year, it have a 66-122.5 Bottom bracket.

I plan to replace the BB with a BB-UN300.

i would like to install a good quality set of trigger shifters and grips, new front and rear derailleurs.

i am open to new crank set and rear cassette (freewheel?) if it makes sense based on the rest of what I’m doing with the upgrade.

i also plan to use a new chain and cables for the brakes and shifters.

I am looking for suggestions on the above components and for any specialized tools I need to be able to install. I think I have everything except crank tool and BB tool but am open to suggestions from those with experience to make it easier/more straightforward.

I was going to upload pictures of my 700 but I don't have enough posts yet.

jdawginsc 

I am no expert, so just my thoughts...

I think you meant 68-122.5. Those bb-un300s have a collar on them that I asked about in another thread, so wondering how that limits crank choices (I honestly don’t get the collar).

As far as shifting 3 x 7, you could get nice 7 speed shifters and use the current Tourney stuff before diving into new derailleurs. But if you want “new”, XTR stuff is top notch during that era. Deore XT as well and they won’t cost that much. Crankset as well.

As far as I know, all 7 speed Shimano is spaced the same so you have lots of options.

Some questions to ask
Is the FD bottom pull or top pull?
Are the rings in good shape?
Is the gearing presently good for your needs?
Would better tires be a better investment?
Are brake pads good?

As far as tools, just the crank puller and bottom bracket tool. Be sure to secure BB tool to remove/fasten. Those can slip off. Maybe the BB is good!

Trav1s

From the other thread in the MTB section:

Well you're in luck! I just rebuilt a curb find 730 Multitrack and you can see my project here: Trek 730 MultiTrack Curb find- Operation WetTrek

The 730 is essentially the same bike with higher level components and a full CrMo frame. Please feel free to ask any questions about the project as I learned a bunch along the way. The end result was worth the effort - it's smooth, comfortable, and easy to ride plus has a great modern drivetrain.

What color is yours? This is from vintage-trek.com

Trav1s

Another for reference
Great resource:
https://vintage-trek.com/trek-fisher-klein-lemond.htm

Sales brochure that site:
https://vintage-trek.com/Trek-Fisher...d/1998trek.pdf






Spec manual from that site:
https://vintage-trek.com/Trek-Fisher...manualTrek.pdf

Trav1s

From the other thread in the MTB section.

I'd suggest copying this discussion into a new thread in the Classic/Vintage section so that the Multitrack fans see it and more easily chime in. While there is some overlap, this is would be better over there in a NEW thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bloomjbikes
Trav1s Thank you for the insights and the link to your 730 rebuild thread. I was going to upload pictures of my 700 but I don't have enough posts yet. According to the list above it is a 1998 - Silver/Red decals. It was my wife's bike during her college years. In decent shape but the shifting is not good. I hate gripshifts anyway so I want to do a minor upgrade build to include shifters derailleurs, and new bottom bracket. My goal is to make it a very nice bike path / 1/2 decent light duty trail/gravel use bike. I'm willing to spend a few bucks to do this but want to keep it in check. The ergonomics seem great to me. handlebars, etc.

I have plenty of tools from my car hobby but no bike speciality stuff so I don't have the tools to remove the crank, bottom bracket, etc. I welcome your direction in picking out the basic tools I'd need to make this happen and identifying the components.
There a many options available for square taper crank removal out there. You will need the crank arm removal & bottom bracket removal. I went with a Park Tools crank remover and a generic BB removal tool from Amazon. Others may have suggestions for you. I'm a car guy and choose to spend the money on good tools. Don't forget a good cable cutter - Park tool seems to be the best with this one..

Quote:
Originally Posted by bloomjbikes
I assume I'll do a chain and all new cables while I'm at it.

-Tools required for bottom bracket, etc.
-Shifters
-Derailleurs
-Chain
-brake cables
-derailleur cables
-grips
Easiest thing to do is purchase new front/rear derailleurs and stick with the 3x7 setup. While doing the chain, I'd also replace the cassette and start fresh. Are the cable housings good? You could just install new cables and lube the housings when doing the install. If you can find a set of standalone shifters, install them with new cables and set everything up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bloomjbikes
-The wheels aren't perfect but not annoying to ride. If I could upgrade them from the weismann 519's for reasonable money I'd consider it
-How wide of a tire can I run in this frame?
I'd stick with original wheelset for now and install new tubes/tires. I know that 38x700c fit with easy but don't have experience with it. Try a google search for tire fitment on Trek 700/720/730/750 Multitrack. My 730 arrived with 38s on it and I went with 35s because that I what I had on hand.

Trav1s

If the the square taper BB and crank were good I'd work to keep them in place. In my case, the crank was shot and FSA Omega on the shelf along with 105 5800 deraiileurs. It works great on the 730 but clearance between chain stay and crank arms is close. I think I have pics in the build thread shared earlier.

If the OP is going to replace controls, then the cost difference between 7, 8, or 9 parts are minimal as is the price difference between Tourney, Altus, Acera, Alivio. I'd go for Alivio 3x9. If going that direction, definitely keep the brake controls for the canti brakes on the bike or find new parts compatable with the cantis.

Bottom pull front derailleur.
Good question about brakes/pads/tires.

As for wheel upgrades, the rear spacing is 135mm so older rim brake wheelsets are not a direct swap, I found a solid used set and converted from the roadbike 130mm spacing to 135mm. Before going in that direction or ordering new (Stay True wheels are a reasonable option), I'd suggest getting some 38x700c gravel tires (watching for light and durable) and see how that makes a diffence in the ride. I'd be surprices how tires impact the ride.

daverup 

You did upload pics, you just can't post them until you have 10 posts.
OP Gallery,
https://www.bikeforums.net/g/album/33667859

Trav1s

If the bloomjbikes is interested, I have a pair of shimano 7speed trigger shifters with indicators that I'd offer to the project for the cost of shipping. Not the prettiest but would work and minimize the cash outlay. I think this is the biggest challenge of the upgrade…

After looking at the pics, I'd keep the crank (used one on another bike I fixed up earlier this year), replace the chain, cassette, and derailleurs along with brake pads. A lighter tire on the original wheelset will greatly change the way the bike rides too.

What about the following items:
Shimano M360 rear
Shimano M310 dual pull front
Shimano HG41 cassette
Shimano HG40 or SRAM PC-830 chain

if t were mine I’d do a vbrake upgrade. I’d donate brake handles that work with canti and vbrakes to the cause with the shifters.

Trav1s

soyabean

I for one like to keep bikes all original, but when you start replacing everything on a frame, I'd consider another bike first that might have all the features desired.

I don't compromise with a bike I don't really like. A frame too heavy with a sucky geometry is not a candidate. No amount of changes I make will work to my satisfaction.

When I find I bike I really really like (weight, coolness factor, color), now I start customizing it to my personal preferences: swap for a short flat bar, thumb shifters, premium groupset, thin city slicks, urban pedals, brooks.

Too many folks make the mistake of putting lipstick on a pig. A bad bike will always be a bad bike.

Maxey

That's really great of you to share your bike buying philosophy. Unfortunately it comes across as complete negativity in this thread. Reminds of the old saying "If you can't say something nice..."

daverup 

I would suggest that the economical way to upgrade this bike is with a parts donor bike. Watch FB market and CL for a bike with nicer parts, but an undesirable frame. Something in the same relative age would make the swap easier.

AdventureManCO 

You called?



You know, my wallet and mental health will agree with the 'mistake' part, but for whatever reason my crapo Huffy was the funnest project I've ever done. Some people love to wrench. Some love to ride. Some like to do both. I like both. Someone that primarily likes riding will probably have a harder time appreciating the challenges and struggles in upgrading a lower-quality bike to higher standards. They just want to ride, and ride something good. I can't fault that. I like to tinker, and I also like to experience the difference my changes might make. I like experimenting. YMHMW (your mental health may vary).

curbtender

I would have a hard time upgrading it with new parts. Everything looks serviceable. 7 speed compatible shifters aren't to expensive and usually come with new cables. Clean and lube everything else.
https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-ST-EF...s%2C347&sr=8-4

Trav1s

Great suggestion. If bloomjbikes I'll go throught the spare parts I have accumulated to support the cause. I know have brake levers, shifters, and probably have a decent set of vbrakes also add. Want a better Trek saddle? I think I have one too. If there is anything else, just ask.

bloomjbikes

thanks to everyone who has contributed with suggestions. I am not trying to over do this bike with $ and parts however I would like to make it sweet within some reasonable parameters. It’s a labor of love, the love of saving a decent bike from going to waste, a love of wrenching, and riding old school. The ergonomics of this bike do well for me. So with that said, I think it makes sense to start with some fresh parts where they will extend the service life or make it smoother to ride and shift. The brakes seem fine to me, the levers too, but maybe a combo shifter with levers as was suggested would be a nice upgrade since I want trigger style shifting.

As far as the derailleurs go, how do I know if one is compatible with the other? It seemed the Altus was the larger style clamp whereas mine is a 28.6mm, would I need to buy a spacer?

also, for the knowledge gain if nothing else, how can I tell if a new cassette is a freewheel? I looked up the HG41 and it appears to be a cassette not a freewheel hub style? Do they make both? Some I saw were 8 speed, which seemed attractive due to 11-34 spread vs 14-28 but not sure that will work?

Shimano M360 rear
Shimano M310 dual pull front
Shimano HG41 cassette
Shimano HG40 or SRAM PC-830 chain

Trav1s thank you for the offer, I’m interested if you have parts you want to move.

I assume new derailleurs and shifters with cables will solve my crappy shifting issues, perhaps a new chain for good measure and call it a day? I feel like a new BB is so cheap why not…

I’m ready to move on this and get this bike back to glory.

jdawginsc 

The derailleurs are likely not the culprit at all. Click-grip shifters are sometimes solid, oftentimes hard and uncertain. Trigger shifters are not my favorite (I prefer thumbs), but should work with your derailleurs (money saved). KMC 8 speed chains are great and sometimes a bargain.

7 speed cassettes (and I almost guarantee you have a cassette) are reasonably cheap. Do they look worn? If not, a little cleaning and they’re good. If not, Probably worth an investment to get gearing you want.

Are you sure the bottom bracket is bad? It might just need a shot of cleaning and reinstallation. It is likely a cartridge type. There are ways to get them spinning better (money saved). You don’t need a new crankset if the teeth are still good.

So then, as I said above, the best upgrades you can make are tires, new cables and brake pads.

bloomjbikes

The manual says it came with a “freewheel HG37” I thought that meant it’s not a cassette? Perhaps I don’t understand the nomenclature.

I don’t see any obvious wear but I will take a closer look.

I don’t know the difference between thumb and trigger shifters, I’ll google it.

There is a small circular part between the crank and BB that appears to have come out of the BB. I figured for $18 for a new one I’d replace it. Maybe that’s unnecessary…

how do I know what cables to buy? I can replace the brake pads with new although it feels fine when I stop. As far as the tires go, they don’t have many miles on them but are 10 years old. I wanted something with some gravel / loose terrain grip so I bought the Michelins and installed them myself. I will consider replacing those with something better…suggestions?

Trav1s

bloomjbikes are you familiar with the restomod concept from the classic car world?

I see lots of parallels between the classic car world and bike world. There are those who like stock/stock restorations and others who like hotrod/restomods. And there is the third group of people just want a car to work and be dependable. I'm the hot rod/restomod kind - I'd gladly take a classic car with modern drivetrain and upgraded brakes any day over 4 wheel drums, 3 speed automatics, and carburetors.

I'm the same way with bikes - adding the 105 5800 stuff, modern shifters, and upgraded brakes to the 730 was a great learning experience with an even better outcome. I'm happy and that's what matters.

As I read this thread, I get the impresson that bloomjbikes is the third type of bike owner - looking for something reliable, dependable, and comfortable. If parts need upgraded in the process they are open to it but it is not necessary. I get it and appreciate that approach.

I'm headed to the basement to check out the orphan parts that I offered earlier in the thread.

Trav1s

I'm back...

In the stash I have the following workable items:

Rear derailleurs
Acera 7 speed that I ultrasonic cleaned and lubed the pivots. Not the prettiest but servicable and would be my choice.
Altus 7 speed - removed from bike and tossed in the box. I'll clean it up like the Acera and will look nicer than the Acera
Acera 7 speed off of a much newer bike. Large jockey wheels turn smooth but the body has some serious scars. Already cleaned and lubed.

Front derailleurs
Acera 3x bottom pull - cleaned, lubed, and serviceable
Alivio 3x bottom pull - cleaned, lubed, and serviceable but would need adapter to work on the 700
Shimano SIS 3x bottom pull - cleaned, lubed, and serviceable but not the prettiest.

F/R silver v-brakes - already cleaned, lubed, and serviceable. Pick up some KoolStop pads and enjoy the results.

Trav1s

I'm pretty sure you have the same wheelset that came on my 730 and they are a freehub. Freehub takes a cassette. I missed the HG37 in the manual. The HG-41 I recommended is from the Acera line and is available in 7 and 8 spd versions. As others mentioned, you might be fine just cleaning the cassette and changing a new chain.

Here are the shifters I have. You decide











Got a pic?

Cables - Pick your budget and go for it. I've used Shimano stuff on my builds but there are other options. Due to age, I'd just replace housings and cables on brakes and derailleurs. Note - brake cables/housings are different than shifter cables/housings.

Brake pads - you need pads for cantilever brakes. I'd guess they are hard and not offering optimal stoping power. Seems like a sign to move to Vbrakes in my book

If the tires are soft and not dry-rotted you can stick with them. Tires/tubes are one area I won't cut corners and will replace if there is any questions. As for suggestions, the choices are many and various. Where do you ride? Are you worried about puncture resistance? Tan, black, reflective sidewalls? I like the Schwalbe Marathon line but there are those who swear by other brands. I'm curious about Specialized Crossroads in the 700x38 size. I had them in 26" size on another bike I sold.and liked them. They roll easy for the aggressive tread, are relatively quiet, and wore very well.

Aubergine 

I have not worked with a 700 but I've played with many old bikes. My basic thoughts are that you definitely should find better shifters, either thumb shifters or triggers. And then, replace those ratty tires with nice, flexible fat ones. (The buzzword is "supple" tires, but good tires make a tremendous difference.) After that, make changes only where needed to help the bike fit your style of riding. It's ok to replace parts because they are heavy or ugly too! Don't worry so much about cost, but about maximizing the pleasure you get from the bike.

Russ Roth

Your bike has SIS on the rear der, can't see the front, that would mean its compatible with any 7sp shimano compatible shifter. If replacing a system, easiest is to stick with all the parts of the replacing system. However, 7 and 8 speed haven't been screwed with much so all shimano compatible shifters will work with all shimano 7sp ders, same goes for 8sp. If replacing the front der, shimano started providing plastic spacers in their front der decades ago and using wider clamps. The box will usually indicate a size range if it comes with spacers. Something like 28.6-34.9 frame sizes.
You'll have to pull the wheel and look, if it has a cassette lockring than its a cassette. Easiest to tell, a cassette lockring has the splines for the tool and the lockring sits proud of the final gear, freewheel the splines for where the tool goes will be recessed into the gears and the last gear or 2 will sit proud of the splines. If your bike is cassette it probably has a real 7sp hub unless its a later replacement, which means that it will only take a 7sp cassette, a later replacement would be an 8sp wheel and use a 2.5mm spacer behind the cassette.

Make sure you get the swing right on the front der, some are top swing meaning the chain guides are above the clamp, others bottom swing meaning the guides are below the clamp. This may matter due to the location of the bottle cage bolts.

Check your brakes, this is the era where the shimano brakes had a light gray plastic cover for the springs that was prone to cracking. I've replaced a couple hundred under warranty though the warranty has long since expired and now you have to just replace at your own cost. Usually the crack will be faced towards the wheels, so not readily visible looking, usually we checked for cracks by feel when giving the bike a quick once over to write up the repair and point out issues. The brakes can still work ok with the covers broken but I'd replace if the covers are cracked.

Looks like a solid build, have fun.

bloomjbikes

O

Confirming the cassette - it looks as though the last sprocket does protrude past the locking ring or whatever it is called.

the white-ish dirty looking donut is what is loose on the BB. I pushed it back into where it is but it falls out onto the crank.

Trav1s i love the concept of a restomod for this bike. In the Porsche community we would call it an “outlaw”. Since the cassette is available in 8spd why not take advantage and get more spread on the gearing? I’ll take you up on the v brakes and will pick up KS pads as you suggest.

Brake cable: https://a.co/d/f0yvpAX

derailleur cable: https://a.co/d/6kXFSSx

Can I reuse my brake levers or need new ones?

I’ll go Altus bottom mount on the front derailleur.

for rear I’ll buy an Altus 8 speed and cassette. What chain length do I need?

I’ll Pm you to square up on the derailleur and brakes.

jdawginsc 

Odd to me to have a nut on the rear wheel rather than a quick release?

As far as cables, this is my go to...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/254234685147