tomskennedy

OK Old timers.
I've got a wheel with a Shimano MF-Z012 freewheel that I'm trying to remove to service the axle and remove the fractured spoke protector. (Yes, I know I can service the axle with the freewheel on, but its easier with it off.

I CAN NOT GET THIS THING UNSCREWED.

Now, I've been removing freewheels for 50 years so I have all the tools, I have a bench vise, and I'm "steering the bus" trying to unscrew this thing and it won't budge. I have a long cheater bar with a 1" socket but then I have to hold the wheel against the torque.
I think the weak link is the radius of the wheel (26" wheel) which is too small get enough torque.
.
Anyone have any "well back in my day what we did was..." tips?

Bill Kapaun

I'll place the wheel on the floor, butted up against a door jamb with the door open.
Turn the wrench so the wheel is trying to drive into the jamb.

tomskennedy

Interesting, but I've always used a bench vise and rotated the rim for an even torque.
If nothing else I could disassemble the freewheel and put a torch to the body around the threaded area - a step I would only do last.

maddog34

i use a 600 lb/ft. Mac air impact gun on the shimano splined freewheels... works quickly, and every time.
*let the freewheel spin down on it's own... do not "grab it to stop it"

bboy314

Why not give the advice you requested a try?

FBinNY 

Get a bus or truck driver. I've never found anything better for this than 2 strong hands on the wheel.

Otherwise, get a helper, so there's 4 hands.

FWIW the turn the bus method produces about as much torque as the spokes can take, so if that won't work, nothing will.

andrewclaus

Ditto on this. If the spokes don't go, the tool might. I collapsed one last week, torquing with a helper. You'll get a better grip and a little more torque with a tire on it. And turn in sync with a countdown.

tomskennedy

Because in my experience no matter how big a wrench you have to be able to hold the wheel against that much torque. This one is not moving under any force right now.

tomskennedy

At this point its more of I just want to beat this thing, even if I have to replace all the nipples.

If nothing else, at least I'm fixing for the next guy who has to do this.

tomskennedy

Well I tried my pneumatic torque wrench with no luck. Maybe I could take it down to a tire shop and see if there's might work.

bboy314

Have you tried a second set of hands yet?

mpetry912 

+1 on the "bus driver" method.

clamp the tool into the FW with a quick release and put it in the vice.

you might spray some blaster in there and then get two people to gently but firmly give it the treatment.

the irresistible force

/markp

FBinNY 

Reality check question, please don't take offense.

As you steer the bus, are you making a LEFT turn?

Alex_13

Warning, dumb beginner question ahead... I am planning to go buy a new freewheel tomorrow, as well as the removal tool, and attempt to remove and replace a stuck freewheel in one of my bikes... The question is, does the new freewheel come greased from the factory? I mean all those ball bearings inside. They come greased from the factory, right?
Thanks folks for helping out a fellow cyclist.
-Alex

FBinNY 

Yes, the freewheel will come ready to go.

Trakhak

It's been decades since I worked in bike shops, but I can't remember ever seeing a new freewheel that came from the factory with grease. They were always oiled instead. I guess the reasoning was/is that since the bearing balls don't have to support a load, it's best to use a thin oil to ensure that the delicate pawl springs will work unimpeded even in frigid temps that would turn grease into sludge.

FBinNY 

Agree with above. When I said they came ready to ride, I took your question to mean were they lubed, not about what kind of lube.

When comes time to relube, they want oil, not grease. Grease is too viscous for the light pawl springs to work against.

Alex_13

Thanks folks

tomskennedy

Success
I had a friend over and we both turned the bus with no luck. So, I went to Amazon and ordered a XIIW 1560 Lb pneumatic torque wrench. (Of course the internationally famous XIIW brand, meh)

I had pulled the axle and bearings, so I used a shorter FR tool with a skewer holding it all together, and it STILL took a bit of wakkawakka's to finally get it to break loose.

Took it off, cleaned everything up, put a drop of Tri-Flow on the threads and wiped it out, and was able to reinstall and spin back out, so no thread damage.
I regreased the bearings and trued it up (no spoke or nipple damage). It's ready to go back on.

One other reason to pull the freewheel was it rattled a bit, and when I pulled the wheel bearings out came two 1/8" freewheel bearings came out (ulp) so for what is only the 2nd or 3rd time in my life, I'm going to dismantle the freewheel and make sure everything inside is OK. If you're wondering why I just don't replace it - I fix up old beaters and a friend resells them, so every dollar I spend has to be recouped on the resale. If I can repair it I will. Besides - I'm retired, this is fun. Fixing, problem solving, etc. I retired from 38 years in Boeing Engineering (my first career was a Schwinn shop in the 70's)

FBinNY 

Bearing balls are not ghosts, and cannot pass through walls.

So, unless the cone was loosened, or there's another visible exit path, those balls didn't magically escape from the freewheel. Therefore there's no need to take it apart.

Just apply some oil to the gap and let it drain in by gravity.

tomskennedy

Well like I said it did rattle a bit. Now that I've overcome The Seized Freewheel I think I'll open it up and just make sure. I've hot a bottle of 1/8 bearing to replace or add as needed.

grumpus

For tandem wheels it would often take two people to loosen a freewheel - you'll need a sturdy bench and securely mounted vise, it normally wasn't difficult with the extra pair of hands.

tomskennedy

Yes, but it's not really "greased", it's more like assembly greased. A little grease to get the 100+ balls to stay in the races while assembling the unit. After that you lube the freewheel with some oil drizzled in the crack while spinning the cluster until it runs out the other side (and that's probably a bit too much, but it will drain)
It will be ready to install. Although after my experience here maybe just a little wipe of oil on the hub thread to prevent seizing, (and the purchasing of a $70 rotohammer to get it off)

tomskennedy

Nope - now I have THE TOOL. bring 'em on!

tomskennedy

Cleaned, reassembled, and ended up removing one of the shims under the lock ring to pull the assembly together better.
(This thing really does need a new freewheel. Oh well, next guy)