Cable Housing End Crimper
#26
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#29
I just looked at my 30+ year old Park CN-4 cutters; They also appear to be lefty like pic shown, and they do have tiny crimper for core-cable-end-cap, but they lack crimper for housing ferrule, which explains why it never occured to me to crimp ferrules. Also, the ones included with housing purchase are plastic.
#30
Yes, I thought I implied that I wouldn't crimp because they were plastic, perhaps that was not clear. Also, my 5mm brake cable housing (replacement, not on bike), came with plastic ferrules. So did the 4mm shifter cable. Obviously, metal is better, but not a surprise that brand-x housing from china off amazon, came with plastic. In fact, looking now at original grip-shift housing, it has plastic ferrule that has ring-crimps, my guess is a process done with heat.
Last edited by Duragrouch; 06-11-24 at 09:21 PM.
#31
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Crimping in bike factories is where it really comes in clutch. You have someone prepare thousands of housing lengths, cap 'em and crimp 'em and throw 'em in a box so the assemblers just thread the cables through and anchor them down.
#32
Yes, I thought I implied that I wouldn't crimp because they were plastic, perhaps that was not clear. Also, my 5mm brake cable housing (replacement, not on bike), came with plastic ferrules. So did the 4mm shifter cable. Obviously, metal is better, but not a surprise that brand-x housing from china off amazon, came with plastic. In fact, looking now at original grip-shift housing, it has plastic ferrule that has ring-crimps, my guess is a process done with heat.
4mm housing now commonly use plastic ferrules that grip the housing nicely. But they are three times as thick as the brake ferrules (brake and shift stops are the same inner diameter).
#33
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On old school MTBs also. Pop them cables out of the stops and lube 'em up, it's easier to get things back together if the housing ferules are crimped.
Crimping in bike factories is where it really comes in clutch. You have someone prepare thousands of housing lengths, cap 'em and crimp 'em and throw 'em in a box so the assemblers just thread the cables through and anchor them down.
Crimping in bike factories is where it really comes in clutch. You have someone prepare thousands of housing lengths, cap 'em and crimp 'em and throw 'em in a box so the assemblers just thread the cables through and anchor them down.
However your example of it making it easier for old school mountain bikes does make a good case for it. Though I don't think cables today need to be re-lubed. If they've gotten bad enough to bind, then it's time for new.
#34
Sr Member on Sr bikes
FWIW…I quit using crimpers and now use small diameter heat shrink tubing available at most hardware stores, and in a variety of colors.
Dan
Dan
#35
Two people said there is no reason.
#36
#37
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#38
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But the way it was said, I didn't take it that there is no reason or that the OP shouldn't if that is what is desired.
It's just that those members had no reason to. So are you calling them wrong for not wishing to? Does Shimano or SRAM tell us that we must crimp our cable ferrules?
It's just that those members had no reason to. So are you calling them wrong for not wishing to? Does Shimano or SRAM tell us that we must crimp our cable ferrules?
#39
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Many tend to over-crimp with those little metal dealies, leading to a frayed end when removed.
#40
But the way it was said, I didn't take it that there is no reason or that the OP shouldn't if that is what is desired.
It's just that those members had no reason to. So are you calling them wrong for not wishing to? Does Shimano or SRAM tell us that we must crimp our cable ferrules?
It's just that those members had no reason to. So are you calling them wrong for not wishing to? Does Shimano or SRAM tell us that we must crimp our cable ferrules?
#41
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The other said they couldn't see any reason to crimp them. Again not a commandment that they shouldn't be crimped.
Seems you just don't like any suggestions that seems to disagree with you and you go out of the way to show your annoyance by calling out something that should have been better just to ignore..
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#43
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#44
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I must be missing something. I've just been slipping on those little metal sleeves, caps then just giving the cap a gentle diagonal squeeze with regular old pliers type wire cutters. Caps stay on and are easily re-used after just running the proper sized small nail or brad into them. In a pinch, needle nose pliers or vice grips, but the wirecutters always seemed to me the cleanest.
I'll have to look, I may have had an official "crimper" in my shop forever on my Shimano cable cutters.
I'll have to look, I may have had an official "crimper" in my shop forever on my Shimano cable cutters.
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#45
I must be missing something. I've just been slipping on those little metal sleeves, caps then just giving the cap a gentle diagonal squeeze with regular old pliers type wire cutters. Caps stay on and are easily re-used after just running the proper sized small nail or brad into them. In a pinch, needle nose pliers or vice grips, but the wirecutters always seemed to me the cleanest.
I'll have to look, I may have had an official "crimper" in my shop forever on my Shimano cable cutters.
I'll have to look, I may have had an official "crimper" in my shop forever on my Shimano cable cutters.
#46
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Maybe a pic would help
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#47
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One advantage of the crimped ends is that they stay on and are generally easier to work with. also fewer tiny bits to loose.
One advantage of the un-crimped ends is that if the cable end is a bit frayed, it is easier to work it through each piece one at a time.
One advantage of the un-crimped ends is that if the cable end is a bit frayed, it is easier to work it through each piece one at a time.
#48
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Thanks. Yes I was confused and talking about the wire end crimps. I've never even thought to crimp the housing ferrules. Compression keeps them in place nicely. Never thought about bicycle production lines. So that explains why they are 1) so hard to pull off and 2) useless after doing so.
#49
Metal is normally used for 5mm housing because the walls are only .25mm thick or less. I don't know how that would work with plastic, and I've never seen plastic ferrules that thin. I wouldn't use those Chinese ferrules.
4mm housing now commonly use plastic ferrules that grip the housing nicely. But they are three times as thick as the brake ferrules (brake and shift stops are the same inner diameter).
4mm housing now commonly use plastic ferrules that grip the housing nicely. But they are three times as thick as the brake ferrules (brake and shift stops are the same inner diameter).
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I just use what ever is handy, pliers, dikes, wire strippers, vice grips, no biggy. But if you must have a proper tool then you might want to consider some large gauge Wire Ferrule Crimpers.
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