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Old 03-24-09, 07:57 PM
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My Manhattan Adventure

A few weeks ago, I asked for advice here about cycling in NYC. Thanks to all you who contributed your ideas, they were very helpful.

Last year, in Manhattan to visit my daughter there for the first time, I was blown away by all the bikes on the streets and locked up on the sidewalks. I vowed that when I returned this year from Los Angeles, it would be to ride a bike. At first I planned to rent a bike. However, because I didn't own a single-geared bike, it seemed appropriate to purchase one in NYC upon my arrival. My purchase was definitely an extravagance, but I didn't find any shops that rented quality single speed or fixed gear bikes and I didn't have time to build one.

It was a ten minute ride from the bike shop on Lafayette, pedaling north to 9th Street, then west to 6th Avenue, and then a left onto 13th Street to 7th, where I was staying. I was, at first, a bit intimidated by all the cars and all the pedestrians. However, I quickly adapted to the frantic pace, not to mention riding on the left side of a one-way street in a bike lane, which isn't the way it works in Los Angeles. There was an incredible sense of excitement to the city, from the people, from the traffic, and from the amazing amount of architecture, old and new, lining the streets. And I loved riding the one gear.

The last rays of the sun colored the tops of the taller buildings with a golden light, as I made my way with growing confidence through those concrete canyons. Too soon my introductory ride was over, but I had a great evening with my lovely daughter and her boyfriend.

Over the next few days we would share some terrific meals, see the Broadway hit, "Avenue Q," and complete some excellent sightseeing on foot, with stops that included the American Museum of Natural History and the beautiful New York Public Library on 5th Avenue at 47th Street. By chance, we passed by the Jack Spade bike shop after dinner out the first night; the shop was having a party that had spilled into the street. When someone invited us inside, I saw noticed the finely crafted messenger bags and stylish Rapha bike jerseys.

Two people, who shall remain nameless to protect their anonymity, squired me around town on separate occasions. Their gesture of welcoming friendliness was most unexpected and greatly appreciated. I assume there are those reading this thread who might recognize the two people pictured here, and who know already that they are both fine people.

Below: This was my view coming into the city on the Long Island Railroad, after my flight to JFK from Los Angeles. Seeing the skyline was exciting.



Above: One of my riding companions/tour guides is on the left; he set aside his Friday for me. I had warned him, when he first offered to ride with me, that I was old, and that I'd be on a new bike. He was much younger than me, but he didn't care about my age. He rode a beautiful Raleigh fixed gear conversion. And he took me on a merry chase through the streets of Manhattan, weaving in and out of traffic as I followed him. I think he might have suffered a severe kink in his neck from looking behind him incessantly to make sure I was still there, and I usually was.

He quickly demonstrated that bike riders, like pedestrians (at least those who are not tourists), do not wait for traffic lights to turn from red to green unless there's a very compelling reason. By the end of my visit, I could discern the tourists who were on foot - they waited for the lights to change. I also learned to watch for pedestrians who would cross the street anywhere traffic was stopped, not just at intersections.

Although the weather predictions had been for sunny skies, Friday morning broke with falling snow. My guide had met me at Bicycle Habitat where, the evening before, I'd purchased my bike. (The staff at the shop were very pleasant and helpful. The bike, a basic Specialized Langster, was ready and waiting for me when I arrived. All the details had been worked out in advance by email. On arrival, the pedals I brought with me were attached, Matt fit me to the bike, I put on my helmet, and I was good to go.)

Due to the snow, my guide and I had decided by phone earlier in the morning to postpone our ride for 90 minutes - the weather forecast now called for clearing skies by noon. Even so, we still pushed off into faintly falling snow flurries; it was 11 a.m. Although I felt a little like a poseur, I brought my messenger bag with me (which I actually use as a briefcase, and rarely use with a bike); I jammed in some extra clothes for the cold, although I never pulled them out.

Over the course of the day we would cycle about 25 miles; make it 35 if you count the constant weaving through traffic. Our travels took us to the UN, the Empire State Building, around Grand Central Station, as well as a lap around Central Park, and all along Broadway, including a fantastic stretch along Times Square.



Above: My guide helped another tourist navigate Central Park.

At some point, we plunged through traffic to reach Ground Zero. There I met Jason, a friend I'd made earlier in the year in California, who took me to an upper floor of the building where he works, to overlook the scene. Although I did not, after the passage of time since 9/11, expect to be moved emotionally, I was. It was sobering to look down upon the site of one of the most momentous events in the history of the United States. The effects of that event, of course, reverberate today.



Leaving Ground Zero, we headed for lunch at the Stone Street Tavern in the Financial District, which sits along a short stretch of cobbled roadway. Our bikes were unlocked, which made us both nervous, but we had seats at the window facing the bikes, which we'd lodged behind a heavy sandwich board, and we were only a few feet from the door. Only one person, a man perhaps a little younger than me, took notice of the bikes. He looked at the bikes, he looked at us through the window, and then shoved a heavy planter gently to one side of the sandwich board, to further impede a potential thief.

After a great burger and a beer, we headed by the park at City Hall and proceeded to the Brooklyn Bridge. It was a treat to ride over the iconic span. I've seen photographs, viewed it in the movie, Saturday Night Fever, and read about it. So it was one of the few obligatory stops for a photograph. (I find it difficult to both ride and bike and make photographs - for me, it usually needs to be one or the other. For this trip, though, allowances had to be made.) We returned via the Manhattan Bridge; it was too cold for the suggested ice cream stop.

Below: During our ride, I did see some heavy-duty locks, but after viewing this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J7zb8YXrmIA I can see no bike is safe.





Above: A view of Times Square a day later.

Below: The Chrysler Building, photographed with my guide from the following day, and two views of the city from the top of the Rockefeller Center, which I visited with my daughter.





Above: My next day's companion took me on a more leisurely tour, including some areas not explored the previous day. He loves New York, and he knew much of the history of the neighborhoods we were visiting. He's a lot younger than me - almost everybody alive is - and yet he too was willing to share his time with me, as well as slow down his usually fast pace on a bike. That's not to say we didn't speed up on occasional stretches without traffic. And of course we jumped every possible red light, and wove our way through the car-clogged streets just as I'd done the day before. And my new guide was just as skilled blasting, worming, and finessing his way through traffic as my guide had been the previous day. He brought his beautiful Schwinn road bike and made me think that if I return to New York, I will have to ride a geared bike for at least a day, too.

It was an even colder morning than before, so I added some extra clothes, and ditched my messenger bag. We pedaled through parts of Chinatown, Little Italy, Soho, Chelsea, new areas in Central Park, and along the Westside bike path, the one place where my fingers, even in gloves, became almost too chilled. When we stopped for a restroom break, my hands began to warm, and the sun climbed into the sky to finally warm the day.

Among many other locations, we rolled through NYU, and past the beautiful Washington Square Arch. And then we stopped at a little bakery for some delicious croissants, one filled with chocolate. And now it was warm enough to shed my outer wind breaker and the warm pile cap I'd worn under my helmet.

Eventually, we made our way back to my comfortable accommodations, complements of my daughter's boyfriend. (I told myself the savings I'd made by not staying in a hotel, as I did last year, made up for the cost of the bike.)



Above Left: The label on the bottle of the excellent wine - Cycles Gladiator - my daughter and I purchased (it seemed so appropriate) to take to dinner with us at the wonderful Kuma Inn restaurant, on the Lower East Side.
Above Right: Another view of Central Park, on the Sunday of my visit; there was a walk-a-thon, a runners race, and there people pushing baby carriages, there were skaters and cyclists, too.



Over the next two days, I made a couple of more rides on my own, returning to some locations my new friends had taken me to, and I found new locations, too, including Madison Park and a Shake Shack for a burger, as per suggestion on the forum; I also visited Russ and Daughters and Yonah Schimmel's. Unfortunately, I didn't make it to the Cloisters, nor to Prospect Park. Those are for my next visit, probably in a year, although I'd love to come back in this summer. Of course, I made good use of the bike map that several people here suggested I obtain.

On my last night, my daughter and her boyfriend and I ate in a restaurant, sitting at the bar, talking and watching the chefs at work right in front of us. We had quail, we had octopus, we had gnochi with oxtail, and pasta with lamb ragu. And like every meal I had during my visit, it was exquisitely flavorful.

One chef wore a bike cap, and of course I wanted his photograph. It was almost impossible, as he was in constant movement and I didn't want to use a flash and I wasn't going to ask him to hold still. At some point he must have overheard me discussing with my daughter my need for a CO2 cartridge. He turned his work over to the other two chefs, and headed somewhere to look for a spare cartridge in his bike bag. How often does something like that happen?

On Monday afternoon, I rode back to Bicycle Habitat, where my bike was packed into a box. In a few minutes I'd carried it around the corner and sent it on its way, via Fed Ex, and I await its arrive in Los Angeles sometime on Thursday. I'm going to flip the hub and try the bike in FG mode - I'll be totally new to riding a fixed gear. I didn't dare try FG in the crowded streets of Manhattan.

Heading back to my accommodations to pick up my gear and head for the airport, I stopped by NYC Velo, and purchased a long-sleeved t-shirt (my other one, from my first visit to NYC, is a bit frayed) as a final souvenir, and a few hours later, I was on a plane back to Los Angeles.

As the owner of Bicycle Habitat put it, I had experienced deferred pleasure by waiting a year to return to Manhattan to visit my daughter and to ride a bike in her town. Though I did know I was going have a lot of fun on my trip, it was far more enjoyable that I thought it would be.

Again, thanks to all for all the fine suggestions, and thanks to my wonderful riding companions.
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Old 03-24-09, 08:14 PM
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What a great trip!

Let us know if you're back in June. There should be an increase in the number of random night rides to various food destinations.

And you've got a picture of my commute in there. The far side of the photo of Ground Zero includes the Hudson River Greenway.
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Old 03-24-09, 08:17 PM
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Fantastic photos! What a great tribute to a great city and I'm glad riding a bike in Manhattan turned out to be such an enjoyable experience.
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Old 03-24-09, 08:52 PM
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Great photos and a wonderful writeup - thanks for sharing!
Too bad you didn't catch a break on the weather. March is really a crap shoot in that respect. It aught to be slightly warmer if you make it back in June...
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Old 03-24-09, 09:10 PM
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>Too bad you didn't catch a break on the weather.<

By the weather standards of Los Angeles, the cold was arctic in scope. But it was rideable! :-) There was sun each day, and hey, who gets to ride a bike in a snowfall in Manhattan, especially as a tourist? No complaints about the weather from me.
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Old 03-24-09, 10:45 PM
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Great story, thanks for sharing
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Old 03-24-09, 10:56 PM
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Big city riding is the best.

Thanks for sharing. Great photos.
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Old 03-25-09, 12:50 AM
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Great photo. Thanks for sharing.

I am going to Tokyo on vacation this summer and just beginning to look into renting a bike there...your photos inspire me to figure that out.
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Old 03-25-09, 04:33 AM
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thanks indeed - looks like you had lots of fun and good riding
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Old 03-25-09, 05:47 AM
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very nice, though i'm a jersey boy, i take a bike into the city every now and then to get from place to place, the city has quite a great history.
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Old 03-25-09, 06:18 AM
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I see this stuff every day, but your pictures were great. Always nice to hear someone describe a positive experience in this city.
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Old 03-25-09, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by lukasz
I see this stuff every day, but your pictures were great. Always nice to hear someone describe a positive experience in this city.
Exactly what I was thinking.

Glad you enjoyed the time and thanks for putting up a great post to read this morning. The pics are really great too!
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Old 03-25-09, 08:49 AM
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Yup, great pics! Did you check out the promenade during your short trip to Brooklyn? Spectacular views of the skyline, and it's in a great, historic neighborhood.
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Old 03-25-09, 08:54 AM
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BTW one of my fav places to go for brunch is down on those cobble stone streets. On Sunday when the weather is nice they put picnic tables out and you can put your bike right next to you with no worries.
I think that moment when they guy hid your bikes more for you was awesome.
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Old 03-25-09, 09:22 AM
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>Did you check out the promenade during your short trip to Brooklyn?<

Missed it - I'll definitely make Brooklyn a priority on my next visit. I just hope it doesn't take another year to make the trip.
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Old 03-25-09, 09:31 AM
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Wonderful story and great photos!! Thanks for letting us know how it all worked out.
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Old 03-25-09, 09:46 AM
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You know, the New York Times has a brand new cycling blog. You should send them a link to your original post. It would make a great story.
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Old 03-25-09, 11:29 AM
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That is an excellent idea
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Old 03-25-09, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by pgoat
That is an excellent idea
The Times' new City Room cycling blogger/reporter can be found here:

https://cityroom.blogs.nytimes.com/au...trick-farrell/
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Old 03-25-09, 11:59 AM
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cool - thanks. I just found this also - nice little video on getting your bike ready for spring
https://cityroom.blogs.nytimes.com/20...two-wheels/?hp

very cool that they're doing this.
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Old 03-25-09, 12:05 PM
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>You should send them a link to your original post.<

I just cruised over to the article, and I included a link to this post.
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Old 03-25-09, 12:08 PM
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Great story, fantastic photos.
I'm glad you appreciated our wonderful city.
You should try to schedule your next trip in warmer, more pleasant weather.
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Old 03-25-09, 12:30 PM
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Cycling in the city is definitely an experience worth having, glad you enjoyed it. In my years of riding in NYC I've discovered more on my bike than I would have otherwise. Though I'm in NJ I live right over the river so perhaps next time a few of us BF members can meet up with you for a group ride, either through one of the boroughs or up 9W for a nice scenic ride.
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Old 03-25-09, 12:41 PM
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Nice photos! I'm glad you had a nice time in NYC. I do hope you come back to visit us again soon.
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Old 03-25-09, 01:17 PM
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What great photo's, thanks for that!
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