BicycleWheelWarehouse Wheel build (with pics)
#1
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BicycleWheelWarehouse Wheel build (with pics)
Just picked up a set of wheels to complete my new bike build. Very happy with the service from BicycleWheelWarehouse. They shipped the wheels out next day and I had them in way under a week. I took off the cheesy reflective Mavic Stickers. Build is like this...
Rim: Mavic Open Pro 700c. 32 hole black rear, 28 hole black front
Front Hub: Shimano Ultegra 6500 series, 28 holes, silver with skewer
Rear Hub: Shimano Ultegra 6600 series, 8/9/10 speed compatible, 32 holes, silver with skewer
Spokes: DT Swiss double butted Competition, 2.0/1.8/2.0, black
Lacing: 3 cross rear drive and non drive side. Radial Front.
Nipples: DT Swiss alloy nipples
Set = 1795g (I didn't actually weigh them but this is what they claim)
I put on velox rim tape, and michelin krylion tires. I know the valve stems are long but I had a bunch of tubes with 60mm valve stems so I just used them anyway.
Here are some pics...
Front wheel
Front Hub
Rear Wheel
Rear Hub
Set
Overall they seem like a great durable wheelset for cheap. I definately recomend them to anyone looking for a good quality wheel. They also offer a bunch of other configurations for what you need.
Rim: Mavic Open Pro 700c. 32 hole black rear, 28 hole black front
Front Hub: Shimano Ultegra 6500 series, 28 holes, silver with skewer
Rear Hub: Shimano Ultegra 6600 series, 8/9/10 speed compatible, 32 holes, silver with skewer
Spokes: DT Swiss double butted Competition, 2.0/1.8/2.0, black
Lacing: 3 cross rear drive and non drive side. Radial Front.
Nipples: DT Swiss alloy nipples
Set = 1795g (I didn't actually weigh them but this is what they claim)
I put on velox rim tape, and michelin krylion tires. I know the valve stems are long but I had a bunch of tubes with 60mm valve stems so I just used them anyway.
Here are some pics...
Front wheel
Front Hub
Rear Wheel
Rear Hub
Set
Overall they seem like a great durable wheelset for cheap. I definately recomend them to anyone looking for a good quality wheel. They also offer a bunch of other configurations for what you need.
#3
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They were $16 CHEAPER then performance for a newer rear hub (6600 as opposed to 6500 from performance), better spokes (DT Swiss instead of wheelsmith), black spokes (instead of silver), 28 radial front (instead of 32 3x front), and alloy nipples (instead of brass nipples). Plus the big differene they are hand built and not machine built.
#6
How much does it weigh?
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#7
How much does it weigh?
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(Performance price + shipping + tax) - $16 = (BWW price + shipping + tax)
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Originally Posted by BWW
Each of our wheels are meticulously built using the latest robotic technology and hand inspected for a top quality wheel that will survive through years of use.
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my exact planned build!
with a few differences in the spoke setup but pretty darn similar...
think i shall go for silver instead of black though, and i also shall too remove the sticker, maybe even some red nipples haha
with a few differences in the spoke setup but pretty darn similar...
think i shall go for silver instead of black though, and i also shall too remove the sticker, maybe even some red nipples haha
#10
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Like early Fords, you can get whatever color you want as long as it is black.
If you look at their site, there is only one road silver wheel set, and no silver for MTB...
If you look at their site, there is only one road silver wheel set, and no silver for MTB...
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#11
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https://www.bicyclewheelwarehouse.com...d&productId=42
Those are the wheels I bought. You can see they were $209 but they just raised the price slightly. Still a a better deal then performance.
Look around there site they offer a couple of other configurations and I am pretty sure they can custom make what you want.
#12
Making a kilometer blurry
They look great. Should be good wheels for you.
Check that the hubs are not over-tightened. All the Shimano hubs I've ever bought new came out of the box too tight. There should be some play when the QR is half tight, and no play when it's completely tight. If there's not play half open, you are drastically shortening the life of your hubs.
Regarding the machine built wheels, I guess it's not a bad deal because the price is so low. Still, it's unfortunate that the outbound spokes weren't properly bent to adjust the spokeline before being brought up to tension. Keep an eye on how even the tension is, now and over time. If they were mine, I'd detension completely (leave them laced), adjust the spoke lines, and retension...
I'm not trying to scare you -- these will be great wheels for you. The subtle techniques are what make the difference between a 12,000 mile wheel and a 24,000 mile wheel...
Check that the hubs are not over-tightened. All the Shimano hubs I've ever bought new came out of the box too tight. There should be some play when the QR is half tight, and no play when it's completely tight. If there's not play half open, you are drastically shortening the life of your hubs.
Regarding the machine built wheels, I guess it's not a bad deal because the price is so low. Still, it's unfortunate that the outbound spokes weren't properly bent to adjust the spokeline before being brought up to tension. Keep an eye on how even the tension is, now and over time. If they were mine, I'd detension completely (leave them laced), adjust the spoke lines, and retension...
I'm not trying to scare you -- these will be great wheels for you. The subtle techniques are what make the difference between a 12,000 mile wheel and a 24,000 mile wheel...
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They look great. Should be good wheels for you.
Check that the hubs are not over-tightened. All the Shimano hubs I've ever bought new came out of the box too tight. There should be some play when the QR is half tight, and no play when it's completely tight. If there's not play half open, you are drastically shortening the life of your hubs.
Regarding the machine built wheels, I guess it's not a bad deal because the price is so low. Still, it's unfortunate that the outbound spokes weren't properly bent to adjust the spokeline before being brought up to tension. Keep an eye on how even the tension is, now and over time. If they were mine, I'd detension completely (leave them laced), adjust the spoke lines, and retension...
I'm not trying to scare you -- these will be great wheels for you. The subtle techniques are what make the difference between a 12,000 mile wheel and a 24,000 mile wheel...
Check that the hubs are not over-tightened. All the Shimano hubs I've ever bought new came out of the box too tight. There should be some play when the QR is half tight, and no play when it's completely tight. If there's not play half open, you are drastically shortening the life of your hubs.
Regarding the machine built wheels, I guess it's not a bad deal because the price is so low. Still, it's unfortunate that the outbound spokes weren't properly bent to adjust the spokeline before being brought up to tension. Keep an eye on how even the tension is, now and over time. If they were mine, I'd detension completely (leave them laced), adjust the spoke lines, and retension...
I'm not trying to scare you -- these will be great wheels for you. The subtle techniques are what make the difference between a 12,000 mile wheel and a 24,000 mile wheel...
#14
Making a kilometer blurry
Yeah, again, not trying to scare you. You got a great deal. Just some points to keep an eye on
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What do you mean by spoke line? I've never heard of that before and double checking sheldon's page I can't find anything.
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They were $16 CHEAPER then performance for a newer rear hub (6600 as opposed to 6500 from performance), better spokes (DT Swiss instead of wheelsmith), black spokes (instead of silver), 28 radial front (instead of 32 3x front), and alloy nipples (instead of brass nipples). Plus the big differene they are hand built and not machine built.
I was of the opinion that brass nipples are more durable than alloy, and that Wheelsmith spokes are superior to DT Swiss because they provide a more snug fit into the spoke holes. Is there any basis to this?
My Performance Ultegra/Open Pro wheelset, which I purchased in 2005, came with DT Swiss spokes (2.0mm). I'm curious as to why they changed to Wheelsmith.
#18
Senior Member
I've had the same wheels for a week now, but I sent the front one back to get a 3/cross for a little more strength. I just got the new front one yesterday and checked out spoke tension and true and dish and everything is right on. I'm 210#, maybe I'll lose more weight and try different ones later on.
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#19
Senior Member
No, the new hubs that Shimano makes, are covered. I checked that out as well, but thinking about that, I decided to go with the 3/C.
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#20
Extra Medium Member
Yet another site that has nothing Campy compatible....and if it ain't Campy, it ain't jack ravenmore, as for your inquiry regarding warranty, I haven't read a Shimano disclaimer in a looooong time, but it used to be that using their products "in competition" voided the warranty as well.
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#21
Making a kilometer blurry
Shimano fronts are good for radial, and supported by Shimano. Rears are not.
#22
Making a kilometer blurry
To prevent this, you take your laced, untensioned wheel, and push all the spokes flat as they come out of the hub flange. This adds to the bend coming out of the flange hole and gets the spoke naturally toward the rim hole.
Heads-out spokes don't usually have a problem with this, but NDS MTB rear hub spokes can sometimes require a bit of bend in the opposite direction (opening the j-bend a bit).
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They were $16 CHEAPER then performance for a newer rear hub (6600 as opposed to 6500 from performance), better spokes (DT Swiss instead of wheelsmith), black spokes (instead of silver), 28 radial front (instead of 32 3x front), and alloy nipples (instead of brass nipples). Plus the big differene they are hand built and not machine built.