Machined Vs. Nonmachined rims
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Machined Vs. Nonmachined rims
I ride fixed, but like to ride with a front brake. I'd still like to be a shallow hipster wannabe with some colorful Deep Vs though, but I'd rather not get a machined front rim. I know the machined rims make for a smoother braking surface, but can you run a brake on a nonmachined rim?
Does it put too much stress on the rim, and make braking too slow?
TIA
Does it put too much stress on the rim, and make braking too slow?
TIA
#2
you get ugly streaks on your rims and it doesn't work so well in the rain.
but it won't get you as much hate as this thread will. most are not so forgiving about threads that have been beaten to death, buried, dug back up, beaten again, and so-forth.
but it won't get you as much hate as this thread will. most are not so forgiving about threads that have been beaten to death, buried, dug back up, beaten again, and so-forth.
#10
#11
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: Montreal
I would say that's only true once the paint has worn off, especially in the rain. When my all-black Sun MZ-14s were new, the brakes made some squealing noises and weren't great in the wet. Dry, they were fine. But they work well when wet now that the paint has worn off.
#13
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: Montreal
What rims are they? You probably shouldn't worry too much about it. If you keep using your brake, it will be "machined" soon enough. Or you'll hit a car. Whichever comes first.
#17
Brake chatter on CX forks
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, ON
Bikes: '04 Kona Jake, '05 Kona Stuff, '07 Specialized Langster
Mavic Open Pro CD, or Ceramic?
What about Mavic Open Pro CD, or Ceramic? These mimic the look of non-machines rims, but brake fine. In fact Mavic claims they brake BETTER, in wet conditions. Though I've read that the CD/ceramic coating does wear off eventually. But this is going on a fixie, so you probably won't be using the front brake that much anyway.
#18
Blue Light Special
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,467
Likes: 1
From: Bay Area, Sunny Cali
Bikes: '05 Felt F55, Schwinn Prologue road bike, '86 Centurion DS Iron Man, Sette Flite AM MTB
So the choice is between a rim "machined" by your brake pads and a properly machined rim to begin with? Seems like the second option makes more sense and looks better.
#19
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,544
Likes: 1
You guys should read what Grant Peterson has to say about machined rims. Here's a hint: Rivendell bikes only sells non-machined rims.
Braking will eventually "machine" your rims for you. Anodizing will have no effect on braking.
Powdercoated rims, on the other hand, will probably have poor stopping power until the paint rubs off. If you are getting a powdercoated rim then get a machined rim - it's going to end up like that in the long run anyway.
Braking will eventually "machine" your rims for you. Anodizing will have no effect on braking.
Powdercoated rims, on the other hand, will probably have poor stopping power until the paint rubs off. If you are getting a powdercoated rim then get a machined rim - it's going to end up like that in the long run anyway.
#20
yo yo yo yo yo
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,518
Likes: 0
From: delaware
Originally Posted by https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/machined-rims.html
Even anodizing, which is a hard ceramic, whether thick or thin, is more durable than the machined rim. However, anodizing is not the solution to wear, because it degrades braking. Anodizing being an insulator that overheats brake pads and causes brake fade.
#21
gridlock junky
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 201
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles
Bikes: 1944 JC Higgens Cruiser, 1988 Univega Aero Speed, 1993 GT Ricochet, 2005 Electra Cruiser, 2006 Cervelo Dual, 2007 IRO Mark V
i run a non machined clear anodized with a brake and it works fine -- i dont use the brake that much anyway
#22
THIS SPACE FOR RENT
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,849
Likes: 1
Much as I love Grant/Rivendell, this is one of the things they get wrong. Surfaces that start uneven won't necessarily wear down to be even. They will if you're using some big precision machining rig, but not on a bike. It's like saying that if you sand a whole surface evenly, eventually it will be flat. Anyone who has done any carpentry or woodworking knows this ain't the way it goes. On a bike rim it probably doesn't ultimately make much difference, but still, this falls into the category of stuff where no engineering knowledge is harmed in the making of the conventional bike wisdom.
#25
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: San Joser
Bikes: Yeti ARC-X, Gunnar Ruffian, Schwinn Twin Tandem, S&M Holmes, Boss Hogg




