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solid but cheap track bike

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Old 10-09-07, 07:03 PM
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good track bike for around 8-900 used or new?

so I'm 6' 175 and I want to start racing track. I've been riding fixed gear for a bit and want to take it to the next level. I want to get a bike I can race with but my budget is probably around 800 total. Whats the best way to hit that and still have a bike I can be proud of. I said my size because I usually find used bikes that are too small so its not easy finding a used bike.

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Old 10-09-07, 07:59 PM
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There's a thread in the SS/FG forum, but here's probably the best recommendations of the bunch:

https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...91#post3008691

To add onto what baxtefer said, also check out the Soma Rush or Raleigh Rush Hour for complete rides. I've heard of people getting EAI Bareknuckles with a build kit for around $650.

You're wise to not spend a lot on your first track bike. Chances are in a year or so you'll have a better idea of what you want out of your bike.
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Old 10-10-07, 12:27 AM
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I went with the 2007 Fuji Track as my first track bike - steel, good price, if I didnt like track riding the bike could be ridden on the road with out any problems. I did swap out the saddle, stem and forks. for a "my first track bike" it does its job.
BTW, I am 6'2" and 230lbs and found the 57cm was perfect fit
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Old 10-10-07, 06:46 AM
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if you can get it up to $900 a last years model felt, fuji track pro, or maybe even pista concept is probably doable in the next few months. $800 in january if you're really lucky. It'll take calling around to lots of shops and probably driving though.

Really though there are plenty of solid bikes $<600.
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Old 10-10-07, 06:50 AM
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are there any cool non-big name brand steel frames I could build myself for a total of under 8-900?
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Old 10-10-07, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by data
are there any cool non-big name brand steel frames I could build myself for a total of under 8-900?
if you can strip parts off you're current bike a bareknuckle is doable. Most of the other ones(iro, surly, soma etc) aren't vary track like and you'd be better off just buying a bikedirect bike or a pista if you want something for track use.
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Old 10-10-07, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by yonderboy
I've heard of people getting EAI Bareknuckles with a build kit for around $650.
I can barely find the frame alone for around that price -- how do you get the full bike for 650?

Originally Posted by yonderboy
You're wise to not spend a lot on your first track bike. Chances are in a year or so you'll have a better idea of what you want out of your bike.
I am wise to spend 8-900 or should I spend less?
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Old 10-10-07, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by data
are there any cool non-big name brand steel frames I could build myself for a total of under 8-900?
Originally Posted by data
I am wise to spend 8-900 or should I spend less?
You should probably define "non-big" if you're looking for a cheap bike to get started racing on. Considering the Trek T1 and Specialized Langster Comp retail for $1100 (which are both solid entry-level bikes, btw), I'm guessing you're not talking about that "big".

$800-900 is a good range to start with if you want a solid track bike to race on. You can go cheaper, but then you'll find yourself wanting to upgrade parts. At that price range, a bike is a bike is a bike. If you want to go more customized, you always have the option.

Bottom line: get a frame that works for you in the mean time, ride the hell out of it, and upgrade components as you go. When you've chosen your primary event (ie: omnium, sprint, or pursuit), get a frame tailored to that.
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Old 10-10-07, 03:54 PM
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any suggestions for frames of that nature? I am really liking the bareknuckle but I'm having a hard time figuring out how I can make it sub 900. How much would a parts package be that I wouldn't feel like upgrading in the future? not fantastic but good.
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Old 10-10-07, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by data
How much would a parts package be that I wouldn't feel like upgrading in the future? not fantastic but good.
the fact is that if you are someone who is going to want to upgrade working parts you're probably going to get the urge no matter what you start with.

800-900 seems like a hole for new bikes to me. There is the entry level stuff in the 300-600 range and then the mid range 1000-1500 bikes. You could get an entry level bike and replace some stuff(or save the money) or you can try to get a mid-range one cheap.

As far as steel goes there isn't really much maybe a lemond fillmore? I think it's more of a road bike though. The pista isn't a bad frame if you want steel.
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Old 10-10-07, 08:50 PM
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mid-range being like what?
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Old 10-11-07, 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by data
mid-range being like what?
fuji track pro, felt tk1, trek t1, bianchi pista concept, middle langster etc


All of the ones I can think of are Al. The steel pista is a completely adequate track bike too and sounds like it might be more in line with what you want. If you replace the pedals, saddle, and wheels and buy a couple of spare rings and cogs it's going to be about in the price range you're talking about.
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Old 10-11-07, 06:38 AM
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Now is definitely the time to check out eBay - everyone is dumping their bikes since track season is over. I've seen Fuji Track Pros selling for $500-$600 (before shipping) over the past few weeks, and a few Pista Concepts in the $800 range. Of course, these bikes aren't steel, but a $600 complete Fuji Track Pro is going to be a considerably better value than a Bareknuckle frame for $400.
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Old 10-11-07, 08:03 AM
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While I know the difference of rigidity in steel vs alumuninum, am I wrong to want a steel track bike? It seems like all the lower range frames are steel, the mid are alum, and the upper are steel again. What am I missing. And should I be wanting steel?
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Old 10-11-07, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by data
While I know the difference of rigidity in steel vs alumuninum, am I wrong to want a steel track bike? It seems like all the lower range frames are steel, the mid are alum, and the upper are steel again. What am I missing. And should I be wanting steel?
Most of the TOL frames are AL or CF. As with everything though there are custom builders who prefer to work with steel and charge exorbitant prices. For something as specialized as a track bike they may actually be worth it but this doesn't really have much to do with premade steel frames.

If you are going to ride this bike around and lock it up as well as race a heavier steel bike makes sense.
If you can afford one of the midrange Al bikes and don't plan on locking it up steel is probably not the right choice. You'll end up spending more to get the same components on a lesser frame.
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Old 10-11-07, 09:28 AM
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thanks. I might take your advice as ride my steel fixie in the city and buy a cheaper alum frame with better parts for the track. Now if only I can find a used 58' + frame that the hipsters don't way overbid for on ebay.
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Old 10-11-07, 11:53 AM
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also, what are your wheels on your current street ride? you can save money by sharing them between bikes if the wheels are suitable for both.
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Old 10-11-07, 12:00 PM
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my wheels are in horrible condition because I ride hard on the **** streets of brooklyn. I was thinking of buying a bareknuckle and transfering all my parts from my old frame to it excluding the wheels then slowly transfering it back as I get the cash to buy parts for the new frame. Initial investment would be around 7-800 on a working bike then I could slowly make it into a beast.
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Old 10-11-07, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by data
While I know the difference of rigidity in steel vs alumuninum, am I wrong to want a steel track bike? It seems like all the lower range frames are steel, the mid are alum, and the upper are steel again. What am I missing. And should I be wanting steel?
I raced a 20 year old steel frame all the way to the scratch finals at nats last year. Ride something that fits and you can afford and handles well.

This year I sprung for a used Langster Pro frame and I like it better (way easier to move the bike around underneath me).

The old steel frame is as stiff as you could want (too stiff for the guy I got it from), it just weighed a ton and wasn't good for putting aero bars on for the occasional pursuit.
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