Need a budget rear wheel
10-02-07, 10:02 PM
#1
My cassette goes to 11
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Need a budget rear wheel
Need a budget rear wheel for my Trek 7.3FX. My current stock wheel is 32 spoke and I bust them about every 400-500 miles. I weigh 280 am 6' 2" and ride fairly aggressively. I would like a 36 spoke wheel that fits 135mm rear drop outs and take a 28mm tire. I would like it to be as close to bullet proof for about $150-$175. I do not have the skills to build it myself.
Can anybody help me out with with a link or suggestion?
Can anybody help me out with with a link or suggestion?
10-02-07, 10:51 PM
#2
Destroyer of Wheels
Watch this thread 
Also check my sig for a bunch of other wheel threads - but for your budget (around what mine is) I think those are the best options.
Also, a way to save a few bucks is to lace the wheel and then have a good wheelbuilder tension it up for you - you'll save some in labor and it's not that hard, check out sheldonbrown.com
Also check my sig for a bunch of other wheel threads - but for your budget (around what mine is) I think those are the best options.
Also, a way to save a few bucks is to lace the wheel and then have a good wheelbuilder tension it up for you - you'll save some in labor and it's not that hard, check out sheldonbrown.com
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10-02-07, 11:47 PM
#3
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Here is an option... Both come in a 48h option. Buy them now and wait until next payday to have it built up at the LBS. This will put you into the $225'ish range. A little more than you wanted to spend, but you can spread the components and labor out a little. It would be a little heavier than you are used to though...
Salsa Gordo rim ($43.50): https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...1&category=146
Gusset Rear Jury Disc Hub ($100.00): https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=2822
Salsa Gordo rim ($43.50): https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...1&category=146
Gusset Rear Jury Disc Hub ($100.00): https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=2822
10-02-07, 11:53 PM
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Here is an option... Both come in a 48h option. Buy them now and wait until next payday to have it built up at the LBS. This will put you into the $225'ish range. A little more than you wanted to spend, but you can spread the components and labor out a little. It would be a little heavier than you are used to though...
Salsa Gordo rim ($43.50): https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...1&category=146
Gusset Rear Jury Disc Hub ($100.00): https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=2822
Salsa Gordo rim ($43.50): https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...1&category=146
Gusset Rear Jury Disc Hub ($100.00): https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=2822
10-03-07, 10:05 AM
#5
My cassette goes to 11
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Watch this thread
Also check my sig for a bunch of other wheel threads - but for your budget (around what mine is) I think those are the best options.
Also, a way to save a few bucks is to lace the wheel and then have a good wheelbuilder tension it up for you - you'll save some in labor and it's not that hard, check out sheldonbrown.com
Also check my sig for a bunch of other wheel threads - but for your budget (around what mine is) I think those are the best options.
Also, a way to save a few bucks is to lace the wheel and then have a good wheelbuilder tension it up for you - you'll save some in labor and it's not that hard, check out sheldonbrown.com
I have seen several of your thread about wheelsets. Seems like you and Mr. Beanz are the go to guys on this issue. I also looked at sheldon brown. I am a tool user, but wonder if I would end up with just a bunch of parts. Custom builders are just too expensive for me at this point.
It would be great if someone would post a shopping list and attach a how to post with pictures. I know sheldon does this, but it is more in depth and applies wheel building therory. I would try one wheel build if I had exact instructions.
Maybe I or someone else will build a widely appciable, bullet proof 36h 700c wheel set and post it?
10-03-07, 11:10 AM
#6
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Air,
I have seen several of your thread about wheelsets. Seems like you and Mr. Beanz are the go to guys on this issue. I also looked at sheldon brown. I am a tool user, but wonder if I would end up with just a bunch of parts. Custom builders are just too expensive for me at this point.
It would be great if someone would post a shopping list and attach a how to post with pictures. I know sheldon does this, but it is more in depth and applies wheel building therory. I would try one wheel build if I had exact instructions.
Maybe I or someone else will build a widely appciable, bullet proof 36h 700c wheel set and post it?
I have seen several of your thread about wheelsets. Seems like you and Mr. Beanz are the go to guys on this issue. I also looked at sheldon brown. I am a tool user, but wonder if I would end up with just a bunch of parts. Custom builders are just too expensive for me at this point.
It would be great if someone would post a shopping list and attach a how to post with pictures. I know sheldon does this, but it is more in depth and applies wheel building therory. I would try one wheel build if I had exact instructions.
Maybe I or someone else will build a widely appciable, bullet proof 36h 700c wheel set and post it?
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. “He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you.”- Fredrick Nietzsche
"We can judge the heart of a man by his treatment of animals." - Immanuel Kant
10-03-07, 06:32 PM
#7
My cassette goes to 11
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Well, I spoke (pun) to the LBS today where I bought the bike 3 months ago. They seemed concerned and wanted me to let them rebuild the back wheel with DT spokes for about $50. What do people think about that?
I think that the rear drop outs on my Cannondale t2000 cadd2 and my Trek 7.3FX are the same 135mm. They are both 8 speed too. I need to measure this to be sure, but it may make some sense to buy a good wheelset and use it for both bikes. Or maybe I should get the LBS to do the repair for me at their cost? Seems that they could have told me about the suitablity or lack there of? What says the forum?
I think that the rear drop outs on my Cannondale t2000 cadd2 and my Trek 7.3FX are the same 135mm. They are both 8 speed too. I need to measure this to be sure, but it may make some sense to buy a good wheelset and use it for both bikes. Or maybe I should get the LBS to do the repair for me at their cost? Seems that they could have told me about the suitablity or lack there of? What says the forum?
10-03-07, 07:02 PM
#8
Destroyer of Wheels
DT double butted spokes? Do it, they'll be a lot stronger (so sayeth the experts). They give a bit more giving a softer ride without snapping the spokes. And if it doesn't work then spend the money on a Deep V or the like and use that as your backup wheel.
I don't know if I'm the go to guy...haven't found something to hold me up yet but have been spending many an hour researching
The trick about lacing then having a good builder tension it came from a slew of wheelbuilding threads over in the mechanics section.
I don't know if I'm the go to guy...haven't found something to hold me up yet but have been spending many an hour researching
The trick about lacing then having a good builder tension it came from a slew of wheelbuilding threads over in the mechanics section.
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10-03-07, 07:06 PM
#9
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Well, I spoke (pun) to the LBS today where I bought the bike 3 months ago. They seemed concerned and wanted me to let them rebuild the back wheel with DT spokes for about $50. What do people think about that?
I think that the rear drop outs on my Cannondale t2000 cadd2 and my Trek 7.3FX are the same 135mm. They are both 8 speed too. I need to measure this to be sure, but it may make some sense to buy a good wheelset and use it for both bikes. Or maybe I should get the LBS to do the repair for me at their cost? Seems that they could have told me about the suitablity or lack there of? What says the forum?
I think that the rear drop outs on my Cannondale t2000 cadd2 and my Trek 7.3FX are the same 135mm. They are both 8 speed too. I need to measure this to be sure, but it may make some sense to buy a good wheelset and use it for both bikes. Or maybe I should get the LBS to do the repair for me at their cost? Seems that they could have told me about the suitablity or lack there of? What says the forum?
10-03-07, 07:09 PM
#10
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50 is good for the build and spokes. Usually $25 for spokes and $45 for the build. Velocity Deep V's can be had for about $50 online. If you google it, it will geive you a list of distributors. Have to search thru prices for the best. Someone posted, (maybe it was me) a site in another thread (same topic) where the V's were about $50.
I leaned to do my own wheels by reading Sheldon Brown's site. Seems confusing but once you look it over, all common sense. Learned good stuf like trailing spokes going on inside of flange for reinforcemnt of the wheel flex.
I used a model wheel at home to follow the pattern exactly. Sheldon gives some examples but hard to see without the model. Once you lace a couple of spokes, you will recognize!
Also placed the labels so that the hub emblem is visible thru the valve hole. I checked some wheels out made by local builders tha some rave about. Didn't do the stuff Sheldon mentioned. Maybe that's why my wheels have lasted 10k and the local builders 2k!
Make sure what they give you is what you paid for. Like DT spokes. Check the ends to make sure the label is there. One local builder built a tandem wheel for me. Only took to them cause they were a tandem specialist shop. I paid for DT spokes. 500 miles later the spokes started breaking. I replaced one then another broke. I couldn't figure out why the nipples were stripping so easily. I looked at the labels and the shop had slipped in some cheap azz spokes. When I went back, the store had been cahnged over to a new manager/shop and the builder was gone. SO becareful with what you get. Check it out before you leave the shop. I learned my lesson this time.
Biggest thing that made my building easy was lacing the wheel while inserting only two threads into the nipple. Then evenly tightening little by little so that the rim doesn't go crooked on you. Takes time but makes it easy. Before i get to the final tight stages, I check the dish with a tool. I tighten then I PLACED THE WHEEL ON THE BIKE AND ROLLED AROUND ON IT TO MAKE SURE ALL THE SPOKES ARE PROPERLY SEATED.
Then readjust as needed. Make sure to retension at about 300 miles or you are in for trouble. ALL the wheelbilders swore no retension was neede. Haven't had one yet that hasn't needed it. The wheels I didn't have retensioned broke! Builders used loctite,everything in the book but they all needed to be serviced after a break in period.
I leaned to do my own wheels by reading Sheldon Brown's site. Seems confusing but once you look it over, all common sense. Learned good stuf like trailing spokes going on inside of flange for reinforcemnt of the wheel flex.
I used a model wheel at home to follow the pattern exactly. Sheldon gives some examples but hard to see without the model. Once you lace a couple of spokes, you will recognize!
Also placed the labels so that the hub emblem is visible thru the valve hole. I checked some wheels out made by local builders tha some rave about. Didn't do the stuff Sheldon mentioned. Maybe that's why my wheels have lasted 10k and the local builders 2k!
Make sure what they give you is what you paid for. Like DT spokes. Check the ends to make sure the label is there. One local builder built a tandem wheel for me. Only took to them cause they were a tandem specialist shop. I paid for DT spokes. 500 miles later the spokes started breaking. I replaced one then another broke. I couldn't figure out why the nipples were stripping so easily. I looked at the labels and the shop had slipped in some cheap azz spokes. When I went back, the store had been cahnged over to a new manager/shop and the builder was gone. SO becareful with what you get. Check it out before you leave the shop. I learned my lesson this time.
Biggest thing that made my building easy was lacing the wheel while inserting only two threads into the nipple. Then evenly tightening little by little so that the rim doesn't go crooked on you. Takes time but makes it easy. Before i get to the final tight stages, I check the dish with a tool. I tighten then I PLACED THE WHEEL ON THE BIKE AND ROLLED AROUND ON IT TO MAKE SURE ALL THE SPOKES ARE PROPERLY SEATED.
Then readjust as needed. Make sure to retension at about 300 miles or you are in for trouble. ALL the wheelbilders swore no retension was neede. Haven't had one yet that hasn't needed it. The wheels I didn't have retensioned broke! Builders used loctite,everything in the book but they all needed to be serviced after a break in period.
10-03-07, 07:10 PM
#11
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If I'm not mistaken the wheels on that bike are either he Race or Select version, neither of which have eyelets and are much weaker than the Race Lites. I, 330 at the time, rode the Race Lite and they were very, very strong. Never had an issue with them, but the Race and Selects have a history of pulling through, they also should be under warranty. Bontrager warranties their wheels for 5 years. I would check on the warranty before I paid for anything.
Edit: Whoop sorry, the wheels I was thinking of were on the next model up. I would still see about a warranty.
Edit: Whoop sorry, the wheels I was thinking of were on the next model up. I would still see about a warranty.
10-03-07, 07:18 PM
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BTW I got a great deal on my rear wheel on my Cannondale. I found the Deep V on a clearance rack for $25. Bought a Dura Ace hub at Supergo for $99 and $25 for spokes. $150 for a DA Deep V!
At a shop, V's are about $70-$80, tht's why you should buy online. I will next time unless I find another deal. I could have used an Ultegra for $50 and got away even cheaper ($100).
If I had thought about it, I would have bought atleast 4 when they were on sale for $25!
At a shop, V's are about $70-$80, tht's why you should buy online. I will next time unless I find another deal. I could have used an Ultegra for $50 and got away even cheaper ($100).
If I had thought about it, I would have bought atleast 4 when they were on sale for $25!
10-03-07, 07:42 PM
#13
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Call Colorado Cyclist ( www.coloradocyclist.com ) describe what you need and have them build one. To get 135 spacing, you will need a mt hub, not a road. I have 7k miles split between 2 ultegra/op wheels 36 spoke (2 bikes) that they handbuilt. Never even had to true them up, and I'm almost your weight.
10-03-07, 10:26 PM
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DTs will help, and quality of assembly counts for a lot in wheels for big guys (I'm lighter than you now, but I've been there...). A carefully handbuilt wheel may work for you. Personally, though, I've had trouble every time I've tried to go with fewer than 36 spokes, and if you have to have something built after all, I'd suggest that.
Nashbar used to carry a set of what they called "touring wheels," less than $200 a pair, with decent 36h generic hubs laced to stout rims (mine are Velocitys, but not any Velocity I ever heard of). I have a set of those on my Atlantis, and they've been true for about 2800 miles. Don't see them in the current catalog, though. You might check back occasionally.
Nashbar used to carry a set of what they called "touring wheels," less than $200 a pair, with decent 36h generic hubs laced to stout rims (mine are Velocitys, but not any Velocity I ever heard of). I have a set of those on my Atlantis, and they've been true for about 2800 miles. Don't see them in the current catalog, though. You might check back occasionally.
10-03-07, 10:48 PM
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I started having spoke issues. My lbs suggested
2007 MAVIC Aksium Race wheelset
I got them for just under 200. No problems yet, but I haven't had them long enough to know yet.
2007 MAVIC Aksium Race wheelset
I got them for just under 200. No problems yet, but I haven't had them long enough to know yet.
10-03-07, 10:58 PM
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I've had great luck with my Mavic Open Pro with 36h on the rear. I got mine built with extra-beefy spokes ($130 - but I used the old hub, would be $180+ with a new hub), but they have them cheaper online if you just buy the hub/wheel combo ($95 - $110 range). Those are the prices at the LBSs that I frequent around here. You can get cheaper ones online, if you look.
I use wider 25 cm tires, which also tend to stand up to more abuse than 23 cm. I know clydes that only ride cyclocross tires in the 32 cm range too. Good luck.
I use wider 25 cm tires, which also tend to stand up to more abuse than 23 cm. I know clydes that only ride cyclocross tires in the 32 cm range too. Good luck.
10-03-07, 10:59 PM
#17
My cassette goes to 11
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Thanks for the suggestions. I think Mr. Beanz has the great opportunity for a side business!!! Mr. Beanz Deep V's for Clydes. I am first in line to buy one.
10-06-07, 12:07 AM
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A buddy of mine in the "above 275lb" range purchased a set of 700c wheels for his Trek 7100 from https://www.bicyclewheels.com/ for $100.00 even. They were 36 spoke and seemed to be pretty decent. He had them checked out at a bike shop near him and after some stressing and retensioning put them on his bike. That was 6 months and 1000 miles ago and I have heard him complain a total of 0 times about them.
10-08-07, 09:43 AM
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Give Peter White Cycles a call the web site is https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/index.html
Peter guarantees his wheels will work if you tell him your specs (i.e. your weight, type of tire, etc). I just got a very nicely built Velocity Dyad front wheel including Shimano generator hub for $200. I can't see how a rear wheel would cost more than $200. The Dyad are a very tough rim, not quite as tall as some of the deep V rims, but close. For my weiht (215 Lbs) and riding style commuting carrying at least an extra 20 Lbs of stuff each day he recommended the 32 spoke front. Since my rear wheel is still under warrantee and the 1st one lasted me 1000 miles I'll keep riding OEM till I can justify the extra expense. I'd go with an other Velocity Dyad, but probably a 36 spoke. Since I am no wheel expert it is great to get some help from someone who builds wheels every day. If you read the web site you will find that Peter is no fan of all these supposed light weight wheels. Sure they will be fine if you weigh 150 Lbs and carry nothing with you, but then what is the point of using your bike other than to just ride and sweat. I want my bike to be practical and use it everyday rain or shine.
Happy riding,
André
Peter guarantees his wheels will work if you tell him your specs (i.e. your weight, type of tire, etc). I just got a very nicely built Velocity Dyad front wheel including Shimano generator hub for $200. I can't see how a rear wheel would cost more than $200. The Dyad are a very tough rim, not quite as tall as some of the deep V rims, but close. For my weiht (215 Lbs) and riding style commuting carrying at least an extra 20 Lbs of stuff each day he recommended the 32 spoke front. Since my rear wheel is still under warrantee and the 1st one lasted me 1000 miles I'll keep riding OEM till I can justify the extra expense. I'd go with an other Velocity Dyad, but probably a 36 spoke. Since I am no wheel expert it is great to get some help from someone who builds wheels every day. If you read the web site you will find that Peter is no fan of all these supposed light weight wheels. Sure they will be fine if you weigh 150 Lbs and carry nothing with you, but then what is the point of using your bike other than to just ride and sweat. I want my bike to be practical and use it everyday rain or shine.
Happy riding,
André
