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Deep V vs Dyad vs Open Pro

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Deep V vs Dyad vs Open Pro

Old 10-02-07, 03:44 PM
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Deep V vs Dyad vs Open Pro

Thoughts?

Also, what width wheel should I be looking at? I want to put Gatorskins on them. And is it possible for them to drill the hole a bit bigger for Shrader valves (I really hate Presta with a passion and as silly as it sounds would probably not ride as much if it meant messing with those stupid valves. Yes I know there are adapters).

[edit - I'm ~ 280#, 6-1' ]

[edit - backstory here I also created a new section in my sig and combined all my wheel woes in one area, useful to see the progression]
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Old 10-02-07, 04:57 PM
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Open Pro 32 spoke works great for me, once 254 lbs.

Are you using a cheap pump? If so spend the $50 for the Topeak Joe Blow 2 pump and you will like the smaller valves just fine.
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Old 10-02-07, 07:56 PM
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A: Presta valves rock
B: schrader valve suck

end of story

Your happily entitled to your own opinion however.

I dont think you could go wrong with open pro or deep v's. both seem to be built with us clydes in mind

but really, whats your beef with presta valves? they work great, and are easier to use since you dont have to push the pump head on so far as to release air, as the presta valve will open due to difference in pressures. *shrugs* not tryin to start anything, just asking a question
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Old 10-02-07, 09:48 PM
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Everytime I've tried to fill them up on the road (I have a Road Morph) I wind up bending the tip. Just seem so fragile. On the other hand I've never had a problem with shraders.

[Yeah, I realize I'll probably have to switch but I can be grumpy about it]
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Old 10-02-07, 11:56 PM
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Prestas do take some time to learn. Each tube manufacturer seems to require slightly different technique when attaching a pump and filling.
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Old 10-03-07, 08:16 AM
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given those choices, and my particular amount of clydeness (<210) I'd go Deep V. Actually thinking about building a set with aeroheads, but they're probably not heavy-weight enough for "real" clydes....
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Old 10-03-07, 08:20 AM
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Oops - thanks for reminding me. I'm ~ 280#, 6-1'.
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Old 10-03-07, 09:41 AM
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I'm curious to hear what you end up with and where you get them. I need a pair of road wheels - 6'2" and 240 here.
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Old 10-03-07, 10:39 AM
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I'm running 36 hole Open Pro's on my geared bike; 36 hole Velocity Deep V's on the fixed gear. Same tires on both (28's). I don't remember what spokes were used. Both sets were machine built and then hand tensioned and trued by someone who knows what they're doing (in other words, not me). Both have held up well but if I had to pick one I'd go with the V's. The Open Pro's have loosened up a bit, nothing that requires truing but just enough that I can notice it. The V's are as tight as the day I got them even with the stress of fixed gear stoplight racing and downtown potholes.
Can't really speak to drilling out for Schraeder as the last time I did that was 15 years ago on a Mavic 231.
For reference I'm 6', 260 lbs.
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Old 10-03-07, 10:58 AM
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Have any experience with the Spartacus or Spartacus Pros Velocity offers? It's the Deep-V rim in a 20/24 spoke count configuration, with Velocity's hub. They claim it's meant for heavier riders, but the spoke count seems a little low.
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Old 10-03-07, 12:36 PM
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I've been looking at the Aerohead OC and Synergy OC because of the offset spoke bed which should build a stronger rear wheel, especially on Campy hubs (lots of dish). I haven't heard anything one way or another about these being clyde-friendly rims though.
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Old 10-03-07, 08:59 PM
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Found a thread on Deep V vs Dyad if anyone's interested.
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Old 10-03-07, 09:53 PM
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Apparently a wheelbuilder in Florida comes highly recommended (heard his name a few times and then in some other threads).
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Old 10-03-07, 09:57 PM
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Cross posted from this thread in the mechanics section - I just got a pair of 36 spoke Campy Record tubular wheels. Old but doesn't look like they were ridden more than around the block. Another option is to reuse the Quando sealed bearings hub from the crappily built wheel that fell apart - at least I'd get something out of it rather than being a shiny dust collector.

I've been able to find Velocity Deep V and Dyad rims for about $50 online, so if I supply the hub I can have a builder build the whole thing and it'll wind up being $130 for something that should be bombproof.

Any reason not to use either hub?

[PS - I also created a new section in my sig and combined all my wheel woes in one area, 'fun' to see the progression ]
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Old 10-03-07, 10:14 PM
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I'd go with new hubs, just to be play it careful. Another rim to consider is the Mavic
CXP33.

https://www.coloradocyclist.com/product/display/25350/

You can have them use straight gauge spokes if you wish. I've seen gurus that say double butted are better, but the guy who builds my wheels thinks straight gauge are better for Clydesdales.
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Old 10-04-07, 06:45 AM
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I've been riding Deep-Vs for a couple of years with no problems, and I'm 6'3" and 300 lbs.

I also had the same problems with presta valves until I put a Topeak smart head on my pump. No more problems.
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Old 10-04-07, 08:53 AM
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These wheels for your roadie? I ride Deep V's laced to an IRO (Formula) hub on my fixie. Still true and still strong.
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Old 10-04-07, 09:18 AM
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Yup - for the roadie.
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Old 10-04-07, 10:01 AM
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I have Deep Vs -- 28 up front and 36 rears, with ultegra hubs. Couldn't keep open pros trued.

6'4, 230, a passion for breaking wheels. After 1,00 miles, these things are still tight.

I have conti 28s and they're fine. Another plus is that the deep V allows you a surface to put on reflective tape for commuting safety if that's your thing.

Highly recommend a hand build, plus brass nipples and good spokes. Spin-lite has a great reputation and guarantees them not to go out of true.
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Old 10-04-07, 01:20 PM
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Just went to one LBS. They said the Deep Vs and Dyads aren't nearly as strong as Mavic A719s.

Thoughts?

Also, just added a bunch of threads that talked about the A719s.

Here's a great comparison chart from Peter White on weights and usage.
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Last edited by Air; 10-04-07 at 01:46 PM.
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Old 10-04-07, 04:08 PM
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Well, the Mavic 719 cost the most, so they must be the best. Reffering to the Peter White link, I run the Sun CR-18 on my touring Cannondale t2000. They are not great, but are better than the stock wheels on my hybrid.

You are going to end up with the Peter White wheels having a Phil Wood hubs and Mavic 719 rims all anodized black and I will be really jealous!!!

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Old 10-04-07, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Air
Just went to one LBS. They said the Deep Vs and Dyads aren't nearly as strong as Mavic A719s.

Thoughts?

Also, just added a bunch of threads that talked about the A719s.

Here's a great comparison chart from Peter White on weights and usage.

SOme shops aren't Velcoity Deep V reatilers. Sure Mavic is stronger cause they sell it. That and they know you =can get one online cheaper thatn their price.

I was really shocked last weekend. A bud on the trail had 24 spoke wheels on his ride. I asked why and he said the shop said it was an upgrade and the wheel could hold his 290 lb body. Most sHops are full of it! He's had the wheel for amonth and can't keep it true!
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Old 10-04-07, 04:29 PM
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Mavic A719, just googled it. $70. 567 grams. Deep V is 520 listed but read somewhere more like 580 grams. Can be had for $50 online.

A719 looks like a standard box type rim. Same one hat failed Becky not too long ago, cause the shop said!
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Old 10-04-07, 04:46 PM
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I know, took me a few. I bet they have an A17 in the backroom and no DeepV in sight!
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Old 10-08-07, 09:55 AM
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I just got a new front wheel built by Peter White, Velicity Dyad 32 spokes w/ shimano generator hub. These rims are sort of 3/4 deep V design. The nice thing is that they are not soo "deep" that you need to get special tubes with extra long metal tube, but clearly are going to be MUCH stiffer than the standard time shape. Very nice rims.

On a side note, the rim required a switch to Presta valve inner tube. I am glad I went to the local bike store tech session this summer. I'd never seen a Presta valve up close before so at least I now knew what to expect. Actually I grew up with Dunlop valves in Holland... kind of like Presta, but bigger like the Schrader valve, but the Presta valve is a different beast. At least thanks to the little show and tell, I knew to loosen the little nut at the top, then I screwed on the adapter valve I got with my cheapy Schwinn pump from Target and had no problems putting air in. I don't see how putting air in a Presta tube was any big deal. Remove adapter when done, tighten little nut. Put on dust cap and your done. Actually easier than a Presta valve as you didn't have to get the pittle pin in the middle of the Schrader valave pushed in. That can be a bit tricky depending on the pump you use.

Happy riding,
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