That FSA click...crap :(
08-22-07, 01:54 AM
#51
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Not the pedals?
Ok...
1. Pull the crank and BB.
2. Change out the bearings.
3. Reinstall with teflon tape on the BB cup threads, and torque 'em real good.
Ok...
1. Pull the crank and BB.
2. Change out the bearings.
3. Reinstall with teflon tape on the BB cup threads, and torque 'em real good.
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08-22-07, 07:37 AM
#52
Don't Bug Me
I have FSA K-Force carbon cranks on my Look. At about 4000 mi., I started to experience play in the crank arm on the non-drive side. It never clicked or made any noise at all as I rode the bike, but it felt like the pedal or my cleat was loose. The problem turned out to be looseness in the connection where the non-drive arm mates with the splines of the shaft connected to the crank side. I initially tried to tighten the retaining bolt a bit to fix it, but when I did the self-extracting insert failed.
I contacted FSA about it, and they asked that I send the crank into them to examine. I sent it in, and FSA sent me back an entirely new crank assembly, which I installed and has given me zero problems and I have about 3000 mi. on it now.
The new crank system is designed differently from the original one that I had. With the old crank, the crank arm just slipped onto the splines all the way until it bottomed out, and then the assembly was held together with the steel retaining bolt and a self-extracting fitting that was made of alloy. The new crank has a spline design that gets tighter and tighter as the retaining bolt is torqued down. FSA also recommends that Lock-tite assembly compound be used on the splines as you install it, and they sent some along with the crank. The self-extracting insert on the new crank is no longer soft alloy, and I believe it is steel. FSA also sent along new BB cups which was nice.
The new system is a whole lot better then the old and it is much less dependent on the retaining bolt/extractor insert, assuming you've properly torqued it down in the first place.
I contacted FSA about it, and they asked that I send the crank into them to examine. I sent it in, and FSA sent me back an entirely new crank assembly, which I installed and has given me zero problems and I have about 3000 mi. on it now.
The new crank system is designed differently from the original one that I had. With the old crank, the crank arm just slipped onto the splines all the way until it bottomed out, and then the assembly was held together with the steel retaining bolt and a self-extracting fitting that was made of alloy. The new crank has a spline design that gets tighter and tighter as the retaining bolt is torqued down. FSA also recommends that Lock-tite assembly compound be used on the splines as you install it, and they sent some along with the crank. The self-extracting insert on the new crank is no longer soft alloy, and I believe it is steel. FSA also sent along new BB cups which was nice.
The new system is a whole lot better then the old and it is much less dependent on the retaining bolt/extractor insert, assuming you've properly torqued it down in the first place.
Last edited by mantis; 08-22-07 at 10:56 AM.
08-22-07, 08:18 AM
#53
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It's nice to know that it's not just us mountain bikers that have to deal with crank issues. Square taper worked fine, until freeride came along and people started snapping axles. Then came ISIS, less snapped axles, hello frequent bb replacements. Then came outboard, the bearings last longer, lots of drag now, easy to contaminate, q-factors suck, to keep the q reasonable the arms are straight as arrows leading to lots of rub. Ceramic bearings certainly help the outboard, my buddy just got some ceramic bearings for his XT setup, they now actually spin when the chain is off.
Personally, I went back to square taper on my mountain bike, a Middleburn DUO crank on a Shimano UN-73 bb. I couldn’t be happier, no noise, nice smooth bearings, and should last a looooong time, so far so good after one racing season. On my cross bike I have ISIS, now on its third bb in 4 years. If I was building a road bike I think I’d search out some square taper Campy.
Personally, I went back to square taper on my mountain bike, a Middleburn DUO crank on a Shimano UN-73 bb. I couldn’t be happier, no noise, nice smooth bearings, and should last a looooong time, so far so good after one racing season. On my cross bike I have ISIS, now on its third bb in 4 years. If I was building a road bike I think I’d search out some square taper Campy.
08-22-07, 08:30 AM
#54
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Personally, I went back to square taper on my mountain bike, a Middleburn DUO crank on a Shimano UN-73 bb. I couldn’t be happier, no noise, nice smooth bearings, and should last a looooong time, so far so good after one racing season. On my cross bike I have ISIS, now on its third bb in 4 years. If I was building a road bike I think I’d search out some square taper Campy.
I'm on over three years on my FSA platinum Ti ISIS BB, others I know swear on the token Ceramic ISIS Ti.
Crank Brothers now make a good ISIS BB as well.
You can now get Token ceramic BBs for Campy square taper. They are not that expensive.
08-22-07, 10:35 AM
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and a good way to keep a bottle opener on you.
I am thinking that I might be riding a bent after I get cleared to ride again. Doesn't seem to be as harsh on the ankle because I really do throw the power down if I am on a normal bike. Plus, I have a tendancy to stand when I climb. Not because I have too but because it is actually more comfortable for me sometimes.
Bent seems to be even less stressful.
I am thinking that I might be riding a bent after I get cleared to ride again. Doesn't seem to be as harsh on the ankle because I really do throw the power down if I am on a normal bike. Plus, I have a tendancy to stand when I climb. Not because I have too but because it is actually more comfortable for me sometimes.
Bent seems to be even less stressful.
Tried that several times. LBS went that route a couple times too just to make sure something wasn't missed. No dice. Greasing the splines really good seemed to get a bit of very temporary relief which is why they thought that's where the noise was coming from.
Surgery route sounds more expensive than going with the R700. Of course, you can wind up with Ti components after surgery. No chance of that with the R700.
Surgery route sounds more expensive than going with the R700. Of course, you can wind up with Ti components after surgery. No chance of that with the R700.
08-22-07, 10:35 AM
#56
Portland Fred
AL. Checked very carefully for problems with that and so did the shop. I also suspected problems in the threading, but as soon as I got a new crank on, problem was solved. Nothing else worked.
08-22-07, 11:00 AM
#57
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Cheers.
Last edited by KrisA; 08-22-07 at 01:25 PM.
08-22-07, 11:16 AM
#58
Burnin' and Lootin'
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I have FSA K-Force carbon cranks on my Look. At about 4000 mi., I started to experience play in the crank arm on the non-drive side. It never clicked or made any noise at all as I rode the bike, but it felt like the pedal or my cleat was loose. The problem turned out to be looseness in the connection where the non-drive arm mates with the splines of the shaft connected to the crank side. I initially tried to tighten the retaining bolt a bit to fix it, but when I did the self-extracting insert failed.
I contacted FSA about it, and they asked that I send the crank into them to examine. I sent it in, and FSA sent me back an entirely new crank assembly, which I installed and has given me zero problems and I have about 3000 mi. on it now.
The new crank system is designed differently from the original one that I had. With the old crank, the crank arm just slipped onto the splines all the way until it bottomed out, and then the assembly was held together with the steel retaining bolt and a self-extracting fitting that was made of alloy. The new crank has a spline design that gets tighter and tighter as the retaining bolt is torqued down. FSA also recommends that Lock-tite assembly compound be used on the splines as you install it, and they sent some along with the crank. The self-extracting insert on the new crank is no longer soft alloy, and I believe it is steel. FSA also sent along new BB cups which was nice.
The new system is a whole lot better then the old and it is much less dependent on the retaining bolt/extractor insert, assuming you've properly torqued it down in the first place.
I contacted FSA about it, and they asked that I send the crank into them to examine. I sent it in, and FSA sent me back an entirely new crank assembly, which I installed and has given me zero problems and I have about 3000 mi. on it now.
The new crank system is designed differently from the original one that I had. With the old crank, the crank arm just slipped onto the splines all the way until it bottomed out, and then the assembly was held together with the steel retaining bolt and a self-extracting fitting that was made of alloy. The new crank has a spline design that gets tighter and tighter as the retaining bolt is torqued down. FSA also recommends that Lock-tite assembly compound be used on the splines as you install it, and they sent some along with the crank. The self-extracting insert on the new crank is no longer soft alloy, and I believe it is steel. FSA also sent along new BB cups which was nice.
The new system is a whole lot better then the old and it is much less dependent on the retaining bolt/extractor insert, assuming you've properly torqued it down in the first place.
Last edited by ggg300; 08-22-07 at 01:53 PM.
08-22-07, 01:19 PM
#59
Don't Bug Me
All I did was go to the web site to get the contact number of their HQ in Washington, and I asked for the customer service dept., and told them the story. It might have helped that I did not have a LBS to go to with this issue because I built up the bike myself, buying the Look 585 frame and K-Force cranks from a supplier in CA (I am in VA).
Actually, when I made the initial call to FSA, I was only asking for a new retaining bolt and and a new self-extracting collar, since I trashed the collar trying to tighten the crank. I didn't realize at the time I had a bigger problem. The FSA rep. asked me a lot of questions about what exactly had happened and he impressed upon me that the problem was not in the bolt/collar, but in the splines, and that I should send the assy. in to FSA for them to look at it. I didn't want to do to do that, of course, as it meant my bike would be down a couple of weeks, but I am glad now that I did send it in, as I have a whole new crank set-up that is as solid as a rock as far as I can tell.
Mantis
Actually, when I made the initial call to FSA, I was only asking for a new retaining bolt and and a new self-extracting collar, since I trashed the collar trying to tighten the crank. I didn't realize at the time I had a bigger problem. The FSA rep. asked me a lot of questions about what exactly had happened and he impressed upon me that the problem was not in the bolt/collar, but in the splines, and that I should send the assy. in to FSA for them to look at it. I didn't want to do to do that, of course, as it meant my bike would be down a couple of weeks, but I am glad now that I did send it in, as I have a whole new crank set-up that is as solid as a rock as far as I can tell.
Mantis
Last edited by mantis; 08-22-07 at 01:35 PM.
08-22-07, 01:24 PM
#60
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check out the token Ceramic ISIS ti. I bought one, but haven't installed it yet, it has a CF spacer and is water tight, the machine work is like jewelry. Shimano never made anything like this.
08-22-07, 01:28 PM
#61
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Well it seems like I have to send it in....I got an e-mail from them today...
Let you guys know what happens...
Let you guys know what happens...
08-22-07, 02:55 PM
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Didn't Chris King come up with ISIS and dropped it because they could never get it to work up to their standards? Personally, I dislike ISIS and Octalink. I've used square taper, isis, octalink and outboard. My favorites are outboard and square taper hands down. IF CK dropped ISIS, that's enough for me.
I was totally square taper (sold my octalink and isis setups) until I tried a outboard setup. If someone of my limited power output can flex a campy square taper enough to get chain rub even with trim adjustment then it is time to move on. Same thing with Square taper BB on my MTB. Ran Race Face Turbines FOREVER until I tried outboar. Switched to outboard and followed all the torque specs and zero issues.
I love the comments some make about how smooth ceramics are with zero load. My ceramics in my BB were actually rougher without load and the manufacturer's website said that's the way they were ment to be. It's only under LOAD that you should notice a difference or less drag. Actually, a recent MTB publication talks about how ceramics and MTB are a bad thing and that FSA doesn't recommend using them together.
I know this more of an answer to multiple posts but hey.
I was totally square taper (sold my octalink and isis setups) until I tried a outboard setup. If someone of my limited power output can flex a campy square taper enough to get chain rub even with trim adjustment then it is time to move on. Same thing with Square taper BB on my MTB. Ran Race Face Turbines FOREVER until I tried outboar. Switched to outboard and followed all the torque specs and zero issues.
I love the comments some make about how smooth ceramics are with zero load. My ceramics in my BB were actually rougher without load and the manufacturer's website said that's the way they were ment to be. It's only under LOAD that you should notice a difference or less drag. Actually, a recent MTB publication talks about how ceramics and MTB are a bad thing and that FSA doesn't recommend using them together.
I know this more of an answer to multiple posts but hey.
The problem with ISIS is that it is not a BB, it is a standard. ISIS BBs differ greatly from very bad (TruVativ) to very good (Token Ceramic Ti). Same deal with Octalink, Shimano used cheap bearings.
I'm on over three years on my FSA platinum Ti ISIS BB, others I know swear on the token Ceramic ISIS Ti.
Crank Brothers now make a good ISIS BB as well.
You can now get Token ceramic BBs for Campy square taper. They are not that expensive.
I'm on over three years on my FSA platinum Ti ISIS BB, others I know swear on the token Ceramic ISIS Ti.
Crank Brothers now make a good ISIS BB as well.
You can now get Token ceramic BBs for Campy square taper. They are not that expensive.
09-14-07, 12:43 PM
#63
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I've followed this because I too have an FSA click at the bottom of my drive side stroke. LBS took the cranks apart, can't find it. They guess ISIS Bottom bracket.
My web searches show that I can expect an ISIS to have a short life span.
I just ordered the Ultegra Compact crank and BB. I hated spending the money as my bike is almost new and has a mere 2500 miles on it. At least I found the cranks on sale...
As a hoped for bonus, the Ultegra Compact is supposed to shift the 50-34 set up on a 10 speed cleaner than the FSA. We'll see.....
Will report back on this attempted solution.
My web searches show that I can expect an ISIS to have a short life span.
I just ordered the Ultegra Compact crank and BB. I hated spending the money as my bike is almost new and has a mere 2500 miles on it. At least I found the cranks on sale...
As a hoped for bonus, the Ultegra Compact is supposed to shift the 50-34 set up on a 10 speed cleaner than the FSA. We'll see.....
Will report back on this attempted solution.
09-14-07, 12:51 PM
#64
Burnin' and Lootin'
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I have got the ok to send the crank in, but I am going to finish out this month before I do as there are some key rides I want to do. Then I'll send it off...and be w/o bike.
Good luck...
Good luck...
09-14-07, 12:56 PM
#65
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They dropped it because it was too expensive to do properly. Shimano went ahead with Octalink anyway.
Outboard bearings are cheaper, that's the #1 reason they have been adopted.
Now, with ceramic ISIS, you can get a long, long, time from a cartridge, and some of these BBs weight only 140g.
You can't make generalizations about ISIS -it's not a BB, it's a standard -and there are very good and very bad (cough*truvativ*cough).
09-14-07, 01:29 PM
#66
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I'm not trying to negate anything that has been said.
However, with other folks who may have the same problem (me included). It may not bee the BB or cranks.
Like I said, I had the same problem. At 4-5 o'clock on the drive side I would get a click from what I thought was my crank. It drove me batty. At first I thought it was one of my bottle cages. I took them off, cleaned them, and cleaned my down tube. Put them back on and the clicking stopped .........
or did it.
Two rides later. Click, click, click. "Fudge packa!"
It couldn't be my cages again, could it? Nope. Clicking continued.
Then I went ape on my bike. 5:30 am I pulled into a well light Taco Bell and started putting force on different parts of my bike just to try and make it click where I could identify it's source. I yanked on the seat. I yanked on the bars. I yanked on the cages. No clicking. THEN! I stood in front of the bike placed my legs on the front wheel and swayed my bike back and forth. Click, Clickety, Click, Click. "What tha hey?"
I loosened my scewer then retightened it a little more than normal. I swayed the bike. No click.
Maybe it's my crappy cadence coupled with a slightly loose wheel. D'know. But it was quiet for the remaining 10 miles. We'll see tomorrow how it holds up.
edit: A week or so ago I took it to the LBS and he told me I was all good. No problem.
However, with other folks who may have the same problem (me included). It may not bee the BB or cranks.
Like I said, I had the same problem. At 4-5 o'clock on the drive side I would get a click from what I thought was my crank. It drove me batty. At first I thought it was one of my bottle cages. I took them off, cleaned them, and cleaned my down tube. Put them back on and the clicking stopped .........
or did it.
Two rides later. Click, click, click. "Fudge packa!"
It couldn't be my cages again, could it? Nope. Clicking continued.
Then I went ape on my bike. 5:30 am I pulled into a well light Taco Bell and started putting force on different parts of my bike just to try and make it click where I could identify it's source. I yanked on the seat. I yanked on the bars. I yanked on the cages. No clicking. THEN! I stood in front of the bike placed my legs on the front wheel and swayed my bike back and forth. Click, Clickety, Click, Click. "What tha hey?"
I loosened my scewer then retightened it a little more than normal. I swayed the bike. No click.
Maybe it's my crappy cadence coupled with a slightly loose wheel. D'know. But it was quiet for the remaining 10 miles. We'll see tomorrow how it holds up.
edit: A week or so ago I took it to the LBS and he told me I was all good. No problem.
Last edited by substructure; 09-14-07 at 01:44 PM.
09-14-07, 01:40 PM
#67
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I'm not trying to negate anything that has been said.
However, with other folks who may have the same problem (me included). It may not bee the BB or cranks.
Like I said, I had the same problem. At 4-5 o'clock on the drive side I would get a click. It drove me batty. At first I thought it was one of my bottle cages. I took them off, cleaned them, and cleaned my down tube. Put them back on and the clicking stopped .........
or did it.
Two rides later. Click, click, click. "Fudge packa!"
It couldn't be my cages again, could it? Nope. Clicking continued.
Then I went ape on my bike. 5:30 am I pulled into a well light Taco Bell and started putting force on different parts of my bike just to try and make it click to where I could identify it's source. I yanked on the seat. I yanked on the bars. I yanked on the cages. No clicking. THEN! I stood in front of the bike placed my legs on the front wheel and swayed my bike back and forth. Click, Clickety, Click, Click. "What tha hey?"
I loosened my scewer then retightened it a little more than normal. I swayed the bike. No click.
Maybe it's my crappy cadence. D'know. But it was quiet for the remaining 10 miles. We'll see tomorrow how it holds up.
However, with other folks who may have the same problem (me included). It may not bee the BB or cranks.
Like I said, I had the same problem. At 4-5 o'clock on the drive side I would get a click. It drove me batty. At first I thought it was one of my bottle cages. I took them off, cleaned them, and cleaned my down tube. Put them back on and the clicking stopped .........
or did it.
Two rides later. Click, click, click. "Fudge packa!"
It couldn't be my cages again, could it? Nope. Clicking continued.
Then I went ape on my bike. 5:30 am I pulled into a well light Taco Bell and started putting force on different parts of my bike just to try and make it click to where I could identify it's source. I yanked on the seat. I yanked on the bars. I yanked on the cages. No clicking. THEN! I stood in front of the bike placed my legs on the front wheel and swayed my bike back and forth. Click, Clickety, Click, Click. "What tha hey?"
I loosened my scewer then retightened it a little more than normal. I swayed the bike. No click.
Maybe it's my crappy cadence. D'know. But it was quiet for the remaining 10 miles. We'll see tomorrow how it holds up.
Your cadence? or cadence sensor and magnate?
09-14-07, 01:47 PM
#68
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Cadence. Maybe I'm a little lop-sided and the loose wheel was shifting.
I mean, it happened at 4-5 o'clock on the drive side of my pedalling. Honest. I pedalled with one-foot and it didn't click. Either foot. Weird, I know. But as soon as I tightened my skewer it quit. *shurgs*
I mean, it happened at 4-5 o'clock on the drive side of my pedalling. Honest. I pedalled with one-foot and it didn't click. Either foot. Weird, I know. But as soon as I tightened my skewer it quit. *shurgs*
09-17-07, 06:51 PM
#69
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Well, what do you know? My SL-K crankset is a falling apart piece of junk, now, too. Had to drop it off at lbs again today. 
It's nice to know it's not just me being picky and that others are having the same issues. I think I'll be moving up to Ultegra SL compact soon.
It's nice to know it's not just me being picky and that others are having the same issues. I think I'll be moving up to Ultegra SL compact soon.
09-17-07, 07:59 PM
#70
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Same thing happened to me. It ended up being the bolts that held the chainrings on. I usually tighten them every month prophylacticly now.
09-18-07, 09:58 AM
#71
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Please see the thread I started about my experiences with this....
https://bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=344837
https://bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=344837
09-18-07, 12:19 PM
#72
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09-18-07, 01:26 PM
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Outboard bearings dont make sense, why cant they make the bottom bracket wide and simply press the bearing into the bottom bracket. BMX uses this method and I rarely hear about anyone messing up their bottom bracket and the argument of cost doesnt hold ground because BMX frames are probably the most inexpensive compared to Road and Mountain.
09-18-07, 01:42 PM
#74
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I have a ultegra crank with < 600 miles and its clicking like a loud watch on every pedal rotation. WTF!
09-18-07, 02:06 PM
#75
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Humm...
Now it makes me wonder...I'm on my first roadbike and I have FSA SLK MegaExo crankset. I've only ridden these cranks for a little over 2k miles and I haven't had any problems. After reading all the reviews from roadbikereveiw.com I wonder if I'm missing out on having better rides... I've got nothing to compare these cranks to.. but they seem ok to me. Do you think if i have the $$ i should put on some ultegra or da cranks? would i feel any significant difference?
Now it makes me wonder...I'm on my first roadbike and I have FSA SLK MegaExo crankset. I've only ridden these cranks for a little over 2k miles and I haven't had any problems. After reading all the reviews from roadbikereveiw.com I wonder if I'm missing out on having better rides... I've got nothing to compare these cranks to.. but they seem ok to me. Do you think if i have the $$ i should put on some ultegra or da cranks? would i feel any significant difference?