Oxalic acid question
#1
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Oxalic acid question
I went to the local Sherwin-Williams store this afternoon and left ten bucks lighter clutching a 12 ounce tub of oxalic acid. The label has lots on instructions on mixing it up as a wood bleach, but what's the dope on making it a rust remover?
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Depends on how much water you're using.
I use a very scientific method - I fill a metal pie tin with hot water, and add pinch or two (literally - a thumb/forefinger pinch). Stir it a bit to dissolve, and add the rusty bits. Then let it sit and occasionally check it for progress. I've done soaks for a couple of hours for lightly rusted stuff, and for a couple of days to take care of really rusty stuff. I tend to err on the weak side, just because.....
I had some cable clips with light surface rust that came out gleaming after about a 2 hour soak. Conversely, I had a chain that was dry and bright orange - after a 2 day soak it looked and worked like new.
I use a very scientific method - I fill a metal pie tin with hot water, and add pinch or two (literally - a thumb/forefinger pinch). Stir it a bit to dissolve, and add the rusty bits. Then let it sit and occasionally check it for progress. I've done soaks for a couple of hours for lightly rusted stuff, and for a couple of days to take care of really rusty stuff. I tend to err on the weak side, just because.....
I had some cable clips with light surface rust that came out gleaming after about a 2 hour soak. Conversely, I had a chain that was dry and bright orange - after a 2 day soak it looked and worked like new.
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It can be a lot less strong. Maybe start at 1/5 the amount of acid to water as is on the instructions.
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Mix it in warm water until the solution is saturated (Crystals no longer dissolve). If you want it weaker, add water from there. Always use warm water.
FWIW I pay about $6/lb at Rockler woodworking for Oxalic acid.
FWIW I pay about $6/lb at Rockler woodworking for Oxalic acid.
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Originally Posted by Old Fat Guy
Mix it in warm water until the solution is saturated (Crystals no longer dissolve). If you want it weaker, add water from there. Always use warm water.
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#6
A Son of the Cape Fear
Does anyone have experience with oxalic acid and plated parts? I'm thinking about nickel and chrome plating, primarily.
I own a band instrument repair shop, and my 79 year old repair tech dips some parts in Lysol Toilet Bowl Cleaner. I'm wondering if oxalic acid is the active ingredient in that. Does anyone know?
I own a band instrument repair shop, and my 79 year old repair tech dips some parts in Lysol Toilet Bowl Cleaner. I'm wondering if oxalic acid is the active ingredient in that. Does anyone know?
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Originally Posted by bigbossman
Wow - you mix it way stronger than I do. How's that work for you? Does the rust dissolve really quickly?
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Originally Posted by tarmusic
Does anyone have experience with oxalic acid and plated parts? I'm thinking about nickel and chrome plating, primarily.
Almost all the parts I've done have been chrome plated - cable clips, chain ring bolts, binder bolts, headset cups, etc. Works great.
You do have to clean/degrease the parts first, though. Oxalic acid needs to touch the bare surface, and will not work though grime or grease.
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Last edited by bigbossman; 05-11-07 at 09:13 AM.
#9
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There are two sets of instructions on the container: 3 oz per quart to BLEACH wood and 3 oz per gallon for BRIGHTING wood decking. Do I use either of these or some other dilution?
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You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
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Originally Posted by top506
There are two sets of instructions on the container: 3 oz per quart to BLEACH wood and 3 oz per gallon for BRIGHTING wood decking. Do I use either of these or some other dilution?
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Oxalic acid is a very mild organic acid. It has long been used to remove rust stains from fabric and will not damage fabrics. It is poisonous so wash your hands after using it or use gloves. I'll bet if you read the ingredients in your Tidy Bowl, you will probably see EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid or one of its salts). EDTA is non-toxic and is also used in foods like salad dressing. It's great for dissolving soap scum and dried minerals like calcium and magnesium but I'm not sure about removing rust (iron oxide) from parts. 10 bucks for less than a pound seems like a Tidy profit for the store.
Vegas Triker, chemist
Vegas Triker, chemist
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Originally Posted by VegasTriker
It's great for dissolving soap scum and dried minerals like calcium and magnesium but I'm not sure about removing rust (iron oxide) from parts. 10 bucks for less than a pound seems like a Tidy profit for the store.
Vegas Triker, chemist
Vegas Triker, chemist
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Originally Posted by top506
There are two sets of instructions on the container: 3 oz per quart to BLEACH wood and 3 oz per gallon for BRIGHTING wood decking. Do I use either of these or some other dilution?
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"Incompetent individuals, compared with their more competent peers, will dramatically overestimate their ability and performance relative to objective criteria."
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I used it on a freewheel and it went from this:
To this:
I did disassemble it first, though.
To this:
I did disassemble it first, though.
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Originally Posted by tarmusic
Does anyone have experience with oxalic acid and plated parts? I'm thinking about nickel and chrome plating, primarily.
DON"T use it on zinc or cad plating, the acid will eat the plating and leave you with dull metal. The tiny bubbles coming off the plating during the process are pretty cool though.
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Here are before and after pictures of the fork on a Rossin I picked up:
https://www.gallery.unvoiced.com/main.php
https://www.gallery.unvoiced.com/main.php
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Originally Posted by raverson
I am going to have to find a local source. The Chemistry Store would cost $32 for a minimum order and S&H.
Last edited by McDave; 05-11-07 at 08:27 PM.
#21
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Originally Posted by McDave
Yeah it ended up costing me $29 for a 7lb pail delivered to Texas but I'm so far out in the sticks I don't have any other options. That's why I don't mix it as strong as Old Fat Guy does, and at the rate I'm using it it should last a couple or three years.
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Here is the directions off my box of OA:
Directions: Rust Stain Remover
Wet the stain and sprinkle PURE OXALIC ACID on it. Rub with a wet cloth, sponge or brush until stain has vanished. Rinse thoroughly and wipe dry. For more stubborn stains, make a paste of PURE OXALIC ACID and water, apply to the stain and allow to stand a minute or two before rubbing. Rinse and wipe dry. To whiten iron stained clothes, presoak using 4 tablespoons of PURE OXALIC ACID in 2 gallons of water. PURE OXALIC ACID can also be sprinkled in the toilet bowl and other porcelain surfaces to clean embedded rust and hard water stains.
Source:
https://www.empireblended.com/enginee...xalicacid.html
Like I said above, a paste made with Zud cleanser and OA, rubbed or steel wooled onto the surface works in a few minutes.
Borax will neutralize the OA, if needed.
I thought the fork on the Rossin was junk, but as you can see in my earlier post, a bit of elbow grease and OA works wonders.
Directions: Rust Stain Remover
Wet the stain and sprinkle PURE OXALIC ACID on it. Rub with a wet cloth, sponge or brush until stain has vanished. Rinse thoroughly and wipe dry. For more stubborn stains, make a paste of PURE OXALIC ACID and water, apply to the stain and allow to stand a minute or two before rubbing. Rinse and wipe dry. To whiten iron stained clothes, presoak using 4 tablespoons of PURE OXALIC ACID in 2 gallons of water. PURE OXALIC ACID can also be sprinkled in the toilet bowl and other porcelain surfaces to clean embedded rust and hard water stains.
Source:
https://www.empireblended.com/enginee...xalicacid.html
Like I said above, a paste made with Zud cleanser and OA, rubbed or steel wooled onto the surface works in a few minutes.
Borax will neutralize the OA, if needed.
I thought the fork on the Rossin was junk, but as you can see in my earlier post, a bit of elbow grease and OA works wonders.
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Originally Posted by raverson
If I can find a cheap supply, I figure I won't have to worry about using it so sparingly.
OFG brings up a good point - using Borax to neutralize the acid when finished treating. I had a case where treating cheap shorty fenders the acid seemed to continue working even after I rinsed and polished. I noticed a couple weeks later that it left dull specks down to the steel where the rust spots had been. I now rotate the old box of Baking Soda out of the fridge into my OA rinse baths to ensure the acid stops working.
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What works on aluminum? I have a pair of shorty Weinnman fenders which need to be cleaned of corrosion spots. I have used mag/alum wheel polish but it does't get it all.
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Originally Posted by raverson
I am going to have to find a local source. The Chemistry Store would cost $32 for a minimum order and S&H.