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Looking for a road bike

Old 05-10-07, 09:27 AM
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Looking for a road bike

I know a guy who wants to get into Road cycling. He went to two bike shops and the told him he was too big for a road bike. He is 300 pounds. Does anyone know of a bike that would a good fit? He probably does not want to look into carbon fiber, and since he is not racing it, a relaxed geometry would better suit him.

Recommendations?
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Old 05-10-07, 09:32 AM
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Check my sig - there are quite a few threads on bikes and considerations for us Clydes and 'Uber-Clydes.'

The wheels are going to be the most important, I'd stick with a steel frame, maybe a touring (Surly) or cyclocross with good wheels.
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Old 05-10-07, 09:47 AM
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First, tell him to find a different shop!

I'm bigger than he is, and the only consideration I had when I bought my new bike was:
1.) No carbon fiber
2.) Nice wheelset

Honestly, it depends on his budget, but basically anything is going to be fine for him. He could even go with a carbon fork if he wanted to, there was a big debate at the LBS when I bought my bike, but in the end even Trek said that a decent quality carbon fork would be fine for "any" rider, as long as they aren't doing any offroading.

If he has the budget, stick to steel road bikes. In fact, honestly, the Surly Long Haul Trucker "Complete" build has to be the ideal clyde road build. The thing is a tank, and the components are designed for long trips with lots of weight. The only thing I, and a LBS I talked to would recommend is having the LBS rebuild both wheels on delivery. Meaning, have the take the wheel apart, and hand-rebuild it. Most will charge a nominal fee, the one here quoted me "oh, twenty bucks would be fine" to rebuild both wheels.

Another is the Bianchi Volpe. I kind of kick myself for not spending the extra cash and getting one, but oh well . They are tanks, and again are built for durability. And again, the only thing I'd have done is to have the wheelset rebuilt on delivery. Different LBS said they wouldn't even charge me to do this if I bought a Volpe.

Basically, he can ride whatever he wants. Just don't buy it from *that* shop.
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Old 05-10-07, 06:09 PM
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No kidding, find a different shop. I was well over 300 lbs and test road many road bikes and ended up with a Specialized Allez off Craig's List. The bikes are really a non-issue, wheels are the issues. Make sure the wheels are sturdy.
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Old 05-10-07, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Univega
I know a guy who wants to get into Road cycling. He went to two bike shops and the told him he was too big for a road bike. He is 300 pounds. Does anyone know of a bike that would a good fit? He probably does not want to look into carbon fiber, and since he is not racing it, a relaxed geometry would better suit him.

Recommendations?
The first thing to do though, is find a good bike shop, a good salesman in a good bike shop doesn't flinch when you start talking about clyde and uber-clyde weights, they ask a few additional questions, like what type of riding he plans on doing, how tall he is, what his inseam measurement is, possibly sleeve length, and riding experience, then think about what they have available, or can get fairly quickly, and then make some recommendations. He shouldn't be surprized if they check their computer for inventory or what their suppliers have, these days manufacturers and distributors can get just about anything anywhere in a day or two. I work for a courier company, and we had about 10 bikes come through our depot the same night....

He shouldn't be surprized if they recommend a hybrid, because the relaxed geometry and lower gearing, suit a new rider, or someone who hasn't riden in a long time better. Of course in a year or two, 75lbs lighter, and a good deal fitter, the same bike salesman might recommend something much different.
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Old 05-11-07, 01:42 AM
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Sounds like the LBS is too lazy to build him an appropriate wheelset. He should definitely seek another LBS. Clydes chew through wheels faster than average, and you need a good wheel builder on your side.

What is his budget?

What is his (road) cycling experience?
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Old 05-11-07, 09:52 AM
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"First, tell him to find a different shop!

I'm bigger than he is, and the only consideration I had when I bought my new bike was:
1.) No carbon fiber
2.) Nice wheelset"

+1

I'm 6'7" / 275# and ride several different road bikes(see my sig.)
The wheels and tires are my biggest concern....along with putting the seat back and
getting a nitto extended stem...with those I can ride just about any size frame I choose!
....but I choose to ride 64-67cm frames because they just plain look better

I am currently riding my '89 Paramount with a set of Mavic Cosmos laced 20 and 24 and they
have held up for quite a while....very lively ride I might add.
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Old 05-11-07, 01:25 PM
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Look into Land Shark. I'm 5'11", 270 pounds, and after testing a few bikes such as Cannondale, Specialized and Seven and finding they were made for sticks rather than stones I spoke with John Slawta (owner of LS) after having a sit down with Mike from Bicycle Station in Brooklyn. We took a whole bunch of measurements and my bike a cyclocross was made. it has a steel body with over sized tubing and the only major carbon is on the fork and handlebars. It's also light and seems to be supporting my weight with no problem at all. Give it a shot.

P.S. I also have a Co-Motion Mazama which is also a great Clydesdale bike.
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Old 05-11-07, 04:03 PM
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big boy bikes

I ride a couple of 1980's lugged steel bikes both with 36 spoke touring style( Mavic T520 & A719) wheels and 32 mm tires. These days, as others have suggested, look into a Surly LHT or Crosscheck. Get 36 spoke wheels with beefy rims and at least a 32 mm tire 35-37 would be better. Ride the beans out of it and when the weight drops, you can load up the bike with bags and tour with it. These bikes are very versatile road machines. Forget racer type framesets, they are often limited to narrow tires 23-25 cm max due to close clearances from those overly fat aluminum tubes. Guys our weight need more rubber to avoid flatting often, plus you get a plush ride too. Don't worry about the speed drop, its not much and in fact, I can ride faster with the wider tires on chipseal surfaces. Dropping poundage will do the most for your ride speeds....until then, get something that will hold up and allow some comfort.
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Old 05-11-07, 06:26 PM
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I'll agree completely with Charles Vail. If I had the change, I would have gotten a LHT or Cross-Check with a killer wheelset, and probably never bought another bike. They are sweet rides, and the "complete" bikes are awesome builds for clydes.

I'll also agree with charles on tire width. I've ridden 25 and (*GASP*) 23mm road tires, I didn't feel comfortable on either. 32mm is probably as narrow as I would ever comfortably go, I rode some 28's and while they are fine, I'm not comfortable with them. 32mm is a great compromise for me, they are *FAST*, stable, and ride well. My rear rim is a Sun RhynoLite so I pretty much can't go below a 28mm .

Anyway, steel is the way to go. Surly's are built like tanks, as are Trek 520's and most any quality steel road/touring/cross bike you will find.
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Old 05-11-07, 06:37 PM
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That large o' man ought to condider a steel frame, NO,NO on the carbon.His weight neutralizes any benefit to such a frame not to mention safety concerns. Bikes than cost LESS than $1,000 have 32 spoke wheels may look good on paper but may need tuning frequently at his weight at least they can be trued. Bikes that cost more have lighter faster wheels,NO go for him either. Cyclecross bikes cost $1,200 or more. Notable exceptions are bikes by Jamis, Bianchi,these two sites are informative ,even if you choose a dif. bike . Kona perhaps has bikes that will work.
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Old 05-11-07, 07:52 PM
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Well...I don't understand the negativity toward carbon.

I bought my first carbon bike last September when I tipped the scales at 302lbs. I currently weigh 262-ish and have used it for everything from 60-mile mountainous, to 20-mile criteriums, to 40-mile commutes, and tomorrow my first century in about 10+ years with about 6,000 feet of climbing.

I do agree...get some good wheels. I was/am riding 32-14gauge spokes with Mavic CXP33's, laced 3-cross in the rear and 32 single-cross 14/15-gauge spokes in front. Broke my first spoke yesterday in 3,000+ miles.

Not too bad for a clyde on a carbon frame.

My 2 cents.
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Old 05-11-07, 08:09 PM
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mkadam68: What bike are you riding? I keep hearing horror stories about carbon for anyone of stature, but I can't stop looking at the Madones every time I'm in the LBS. I wanted to make one my "300 pound down" bike, but at that point I'll still be 267, and yeah..
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Old 05-11-07, 08:34 PM
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crack in half

I've read a few company brochures that had a disclaimer regarding their carbon fiber products....specifically, that if you are over 250 pounds they don't reccomend you use them. While I'm sure Trek builds a fine frame, its not really suitable for wide tires or fenders, for that matter. Something I appreciate on a all around bike. I don't like flatting and I don't like all that wet, gritty, sludge going on my backside or into my drivetrain.
One problem CF suffers from is it doesn't handle scratching, gaffs, wrecks or other types of damage without invisable damage occuring. This is warned about in some product manuals. If you ride a CF bike or fork, keep an eye on it, if it gets nicked, scratched or wacked hard. Hidden micro cracking can lead to sudden failures without warning.
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Old 05-11-07, 09:29 PM
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I know a lot of 300 pounders riding road bikes. Some on carbon fiber, some steel. Just get high spoke count wheels and he should be fine.
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Old 05-11-07, 09:56 PM
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If he a gets steel or aluminum bike that costs 1,000 or less or a flatbar road bike,he'll have more money to but really strong 36 spoke wheel soon or to start with.We are talking about a 300 pounder.Traditional Drop bar road bikes,actually are not designed for that weight and really..the carbon fiber idea is very laughable. Hybrid bikes and wheels are a different matter but we're discussing road bikes. I weighed 368 and rode,a hybrid, -140 pounds later,I had the nerve to get back on a road bike AFTER I changed the rims and used 28mm tires. let's keepit real here next thing some one's apt to be having the man on a 753 Bob Jackson with silk tubulars 'cause it's cool. The image of a 300 pounder on a Sctt Addict scares me.
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Old 05-11-07, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by old and new
If he a gets steel or aluminum bike that costs 1,000 or less or a flatbar road bike,he'll have more money to but really strong 36 spoke wheel soon or to start with.We are talking about a 300 pounder.Traditional Drop bar road bikes,actually are not designed for that weight and really..the carbon fiber idea is very laughable. Hybrid bikes and wheels are a different matter but we're discussing road bikes. I weighed 368 and rode,a hybrid, -140 pounds later,I had the nerve to get back on a road bike AFTER I changed the rims and used 28mm tires. let's keepit real here next thing some one's apt to be having the man on a 753 Bob Jackson with silk tubulars 'cause it's cool. The image of a 300 pounder on a Sctt Addict scares me.
Gee...I hope I don't scare you...unless it's the sight of my massive thighs dropping you... Now my gut hanging out on the other hand...

Yeah...each rider is an individual. For some...carbon may work...others not. But don't just dismiss it out-of-hand. I've been incredibly happy with my machine since I got it. Very valid point about saving money on frameset and getting good quality wheels. Saying carbon fiber is laughable shows ignorance. I, and others like me, are proof positive that it is fine when done right. Some manufacturers do have weight limits. Their choice. My Kuota does not. End of discussion.

Bob Jackson 753?...very good choice. It could handle the OP no problem. Silk tubulars...OP's choice, but I don't use. Too expensive when fixing flats.

I went looking for
#1-strength/stiffness in the bottom bracket area as I can flex my old, beer-can sized Cannondale whenever I wish; and
#2-comfort for long rides. My carbon bike does both without a whimper. I am never sore from the bike. Legs from too many hills...yes, too many intervals...yes. Bike vibration discomfort...no.

For the record, I ride a Kuota Kharma, 2006. Mavic Ksyrium Elite wheels (18/20 bladed spokes f/r), drop bar, Specialized Alias 143mm saddle, Look Keo Carbon/Ti pedals, Shimano Ultegra throughout, 53/39 chainrings, 11/23 cassette (12/25 for hills). I am happy as a clam, and comfortable to boot.
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Old 05-11-07, 11:58 PM
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hmmm

Originally Posted by powerglide
I know a lot of 300 pounders riding road bikes. Some on carbon fiber, some steel. Just get high spoke count wheels and he should be fine.
When you say road bike do you mean a lightweight racer? Or any drop bar 700c wheeled bike?
A heavy duty cross style bike or a tour weight frame would be a better frame for a heavy rider IMHO.....with surdy wheels and wide tires.
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Old 05-12-07, 05:28 AM
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Old & New--

Fact: Other posts have dismissed carbon fiber as a possibility simply because the person in question weighs 300 lbs.

Fact: I only have asked not to dismiss carbon fiber out-of-hand simply because (see: post #17)

Fact: I am 300 lbs too...or rather I was when I first purchased my cf frame.

Fact: My frame has not cracked or failed me in 3,500+ miles

Fact: There are cheap frames in any material, steel, titanium, aluminum, carbon fiber

Conclusion: It is therefore ignorant (def: not knowing) to dismiss cf as a possibility simply because you think it will not work for a 300 lb rider when it is demonstrated to work for another 300 lb rider.

Opinion: Do I recommend carbon fiber? I don't know the guy. I recommend a bike that fits, is sturdy, and is comfortable. At least give the guy (or girl) choices and reliable, truthful information. If they want to blow a wad of cash...who are we to say "no"?
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Old 05-12-07, 09:02 AM
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mkadam68 - great points!

The way I ride....I'd be afraid I'd crack it. I've broken things (not necessarily bike riding) and people just stop and ask how the hell I did that. It's a gift But I would be afraid of being on a cf bike, yes probably ignorant but so be it I WILL say I was very happy when my front fork bent because it was steel and not snapped like it would have with cf or al.

But let's not turn this into one of those threads! Ultimately the best bike for you is one that you'll ride the most which means fitted right and comfortable.
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Old 05-12-07, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Air
But let's not turn this into one of those threads! Ultimately the best bike for you is one that you'll ride the most which means fitted right and comfortable.
This Athena (and moderator) completely agrees with not having one of those threads on the Clydesdale forum. Especially a thread like this one that is full of useful observations, opinions, and advice.
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Old 05-12-07, 09:42 AM
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*hi donnamb!*
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Old 05-12-07, 12:26 PM
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Hi, Air!
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Old 05-12-07, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Air
But let's not turn this into one of those threads!
I whole-heartedly agree. (Of course, you all aren't privy to the PM's I received.)

Originally Posted by Air
...Ultimately the best bike for you is one that you'll ride the most which means fitted right and comfortable.
+1

All I have asked is just don't dismiss it because a) He's large, and b) it's carbon. If it's worked for me...it can work for him.
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Old 05-12-07, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Air
But let's not turn this into one of those threads! Ultimately the best bike for you is one that you'll ride the most which means fitted right and comfortable.
+10000000000

Seriously. I "Internet Shop" for bikes all the time. When I bought my last one, I was SET on a Rockhopper Comp or a Trek 6700. I bought a Hardrock Sport. 800 miles later, and I don't regret it one bit, talk about a hell of a bike!

Second bike, I was *SET* on a Redline 9-2-5. Also thought of maybe trying out a Volpe. I rode out on a Trek 7.3 FX that I absolutely adore, and have almost 300 miles on. Today I did 55 miles on it, and it's a champ. I'll probably ride it until I hit my "300 lost" goal, at which point who knows what I'll get .
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