$17 MTB frame, shipped
#1
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$17 MTB frame, shipped
I just ordered this frame this morning. I figure that for less than $20, I can't go wrong.
Proof that it cost less than $17:
I spent most of the rest of the day looking at parts for it, and have come to the realization that a $17 frame doesn't necessarily equate to an inexpensive bike.
The funny thing about the frame is that they're selling it on eBay with a starting bid of $9.99 plus $30.99 shipping, or Buy It Now at $19.99 plus $30.99 shipping.
Proof that it cost less than $17:
I spent most of the rest of the day looking at parts for it, and have come to the realization that a $17 frame doesn't necessarily equate to an inexpensive bike.
The funny thing about the frame is that they're selling it on eBay with a starting bid of $9.99 plus $30.99 shipping, or Buy It Now at $19.99 plus $30.99 shipping.
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Wow. Good find, even if it sucks really bad.. its only $17 shipped.
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Originally Posted by monogodo
I just ordered this frame this morning. I figure that for less than $20, I can't go wrong.
I spent most of the rest of the day looking at parts for it, and have come to the realization that a $17 frame doesn't necessarily equate to an inexpensive bike.
I spent most of the rest of the day looking at parts for it, and have come to the realization that a $17 frame doesn't necessarily equate to an inexpensive bike.
Hope this helps.
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#5
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Thread Starter
I already have the following:
That means all I'd need is a fork, brakes, seatpost, stem, seat, cables & pedals.
Since I'm wanting to get the Catamount repainted, I'm considering moving the parts from it to the new frame while it gets repainted.
And from the looks of the dropouts, I'm thinking I might be able to go SS with it. By utilizing some existing parts, I should be able to get it running fairly cheap.
And I've also considered hitting a few pawn shops in the area to look for hidden treasures that can be stripped/recycled.
But I'm not in a hurry.
- a set of Deore LX 8-speed hubs laced to Mavic 221 rims (with tires)
- a Tioga Prestige handlebar
- DiaCompe brake levers
- SRAM X-Ray Gripshift
- a pair of OURY grips
- Deore LX RD & top-pull FD (in the correct clamp diameter)
- 600 Ultegra 170mm double cranks (yeah, I know they're road cranks, but they're paid for)
- bottom bracket (unless the Shimano one I've got works, but I doubt it)
That means all I'd need is a fork, brakes, seatpost, stem, seat, cables & pedals.
Since I'm wanting to get the Catamount repainted, I'm considering moving the parts from it to the new frame while it gets repainted.
And from the looks of the dropouts, I'm thinking I might be able to go SS with it. By utilizing some existing parts, I should be able to get it running fairly cheap.
And I've also considered hitting a few pawn shops in the area to look for hidden treasures that can be stripped/recycled.
But I'm not in a hurry.
Last edited by monogodo; 05-02-07 at 07:07 AM.
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Except for the non-looped stays, it reminds me very much of the old Yeti Ulimate:
Good snag, monogodo. ediscount bike is an interesting company. They get a lot of closeout OEM stock from diverse sources. They've had some incredible buys on K2 frames. Wish I'd snagged a raw aluminum cruiser frame when they were blowing them out for about $25 a few years ago.
Good snag, monogodo. ediscount bike is an interesting company. They get a lot of closeout OEM stock from diverse sources. They've had some incredible buys on K2 frames. Wish I'd snagged a raw aluminum cruiser frame when they were blowing them out for about $25 a few years ago.
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Originally Posted by dminor
Except for the non-looped stays, it reminds me very much of the old Yeti Ulimate:
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I learned how to ride a bike on a hot pink Nishiki Alien with jelly bean stickers and 24" wheels...
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#12
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Originally Posted by While At Rome
your call, but by the looks of the welds on that bike, catastrophic failure is right around the corner.
#13
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Originally Posted by dminor
Good snag, monogodo. ediscount bike is an interesting company. They get a lot of closeout OEM stock from diverse sources. They've had some incredible buys on K2 frames. Wish I'd snagged a raw aluminum cruiser frame when they were blowing them out for about $25 a few years ago.
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Originally Posted by Raiyn
I learned to ride on one of these
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Originally Posted by Mark Twain
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#16
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Originally Posted by dminor
Hey, that was my second bike! (minus the mutli speeds). Columbia Playboy . . . even had a 'dual-crown' fork, which was cool but made it heavy for popping wheelies. My first bike was a 24" JC Higgins.
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Originally Posted by Raiyn
Playbike Mine was the single speed with the regular fork. I still have it back at the parentals. It needs a good restoration job, but it's all there.
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Originally Posted by Mark Twain
"Don't argue with stupid people; they will drag you down to their level and then beat you with experience."
Last edited by dminor; 05-02-07 at 04:51 PM.
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Originally Posted by dminor
Playboy was the little-bit-earlier predecessor to the Playbike. Oh boy do I remember that - - my friends gave me no end of razzing for that. Maybe part of why Columbia changed the name. And the fuggly sissy bar that wasn't cool like the Schwinns:
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Originally Posted by Raiyn
Ahh. I suppose a few moms got together and bit¢hed about it. Imagine riding that puppy during the 1980's BMX boom think you got crap? Mines still got knobbies and a BMX bar on it. (Yes we kept the ape hangers)
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after you have put 2 or 3 hundred hours into welding manifolds for cars that have to withstand more than 1200 degrees u know what welds are good and bad.
cant really tell because it is painted, judging from the bubble like shape of the welds on the head-tube it looks like it is mig welded.
the way to tell a strong well done weld is that is is for the most part flat or at a 45 degree angle with the 2 peices it is holding together. this shows that the heat penerated the metal enough to not only "weld" then together but also fuse them somewhat where the rod cant reach. when u get a concave weld it means that the heat to thickness was incorrect and u are heating up the metal too much. Not enough heat in the weld results in a bubble looking weld. this is basically just the physical weld holding it together. this is the weakest and worst thing to have. if ur bike was made by a reputable company probably 9/10 of them use machine tig welders which will do a perfect weld as long as there are no problems with the metal.
basically, judging by the quality of the welds on that frame, u probably would be better off building urself a wooden frame with screws and glue. might last longer.
cant really tell because it is painted, judging from the bubble like shape of the welds on the head-tube it looks like it is mig welded.
the way to tell a strong well done weld is that is is for the most part flat or at a 45 degree angle with the 2 peices it is holding together. this shows that the heat penerated the metal enough to not only "weld" then together but also fuse them somewhat where the rod cant reach. when u get a concave weld it means that the heat to thickness was incorrect and u are heating up the metal too much. Not enough heat in the weld results in a bubble looking weld. this is basically just the physical weld holding it together. this is the weakest and worst thing to have. if ur bike was made by a reputable company probably 9/10 of them use machine tig welders which will do a perfect weld as long as there are no problems with the metal.
basically, judging by the quality of the welds on that frame, u probably would be better off building urself a wooden frame with screws and glue. might last longer.
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Originally Posted by While At Rome
after you have put 2 or 3 hundred hours into welding manifolds for cars that have to withstand more than 1200 degrees you know what welds are good and bad.
cant really tell because it is painted, judging from the bubble like shape of the welds on the head-tube it looks like it is mig welded.
the way to tell a strong well done weld is that is is for the most part flat or at a 45 degree angle with the 2 pieces it is holding together. this shows that the heat penetrated the metal enough to not only "weld" then together but also fuse them somewhat where the rod cant reach. when you get a concave weld it means that the heat to thickness was incorrect and you are heating up the metal too much. Not enough heat in the weld results in a bubble looking weld. this is basically just the physical weld holding it together. this is the weakest and worst thing to have. if your bike was made by a reputable company probably 9/10 of them use machine tig welders which will do a perfect weld as long as there are no problems with the metal.
basically, judging by the quality of the welds on that frame, you probably would be better off building yourself a wooden frame with screws and glue. might last longer.
cant really tell because it is painted, judging from the bubble like shape of the welds on the head-tube it looks like it is mig welded.
the way to tell a strong well done weld is that is is for the most part flat or at a 45 degree angle with the 2 pieces it is holding together. this shows that the heat penetrated the metal enough to not only "weld" then together but also fuse them somewhat where the rod cant reach. when you get a concave weld it means that the heat to thickness was incorrect and you are heating up the metal too much. Not enough heat in the weld results in a bubble looking weld. this is basically just the physical weld holding it together. this is the weakest and worst thing to have. if your bike was made by a reputable company probably 9/10 of them use machine tig welders which will do a perfect weld as long as there are no problems with the metal.
basically, judging by the quality of the welds on that frame, you probably would be better off building yourself a wooden frame with screws and glue. might last longer.
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Originally Posted by While At Rome
after you have put 2 or 3 hundred hours into welding manifolds for cars that have to withstand more than 1200 degrees u know what welds are good and bad.
cant really tell because it is painted, judging from the bubble like shape of the welds on the head-tube it looks like it is mig welded.
the way to tell a strong well done weld is that is is for the most part flat or at a 45 degree angle with the 2 peices it is holding together. this shows that the heat penerated the metal enough to not only "weld" then together but also fuse them somewhat where the rod cant reach. when u get a concave weld it means that the heat to thickness was incorrect and u are heating up the metal too much. Not enough heat in the weld results in a bubble looking weld. this is basically just the physical weld holding it together. this is the weakest and worst thing to have. if ur bike was made by a reputable company probably 9/10 of them use machine tig welders which will do a perfect weld as long as there are no problems with the metal.
basically, judging by the quality of the welds on that frame, u probably would be better off building urself a wooden frame with screws and glue. might last longer.
cant really tell because it is painted, judging from the bubble like shape of the welds on the head-tube it looks like it is mig welded.
the way to tell a strong well done weld is that is is for the most part flat or at a 45 degree angle with the 2 peices it is holding together. this shows that the heat penerated the metal enough to not only "weld" then together but also fuse them somewhat where the rod cant reach. when u get a concave weld it means that the heat to thickness was incorrect and u are heating up the metal too much. Not enough heat in the weld results in a bubble looking weld. this is basically just the physical weld holding it together. this is the weakest and worst thing to have. if ur bike was made by a reputable company probably 9/10 of them use machine tig welders which will do a perfect weld as long as there are no problems with the metal.
basically, judging by the quality of the welds on that frame, u probably would be better off building urself a wooden frame with screws and glue. might last longer.
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Originally Posted by While At Rome
after you have put 2 or 3 hundred hours into welding manifolds for cars that have to withstand more than 1200 degrees u know what welds are good and bad.
cant really tell because it is painted, judging from the bubble like shape of the welds on the head-tube it looks like it is mig welded.
the way to tell a strong well done weld is that is is for the most part flat or at a 45 degree angle with the 2 peices it is holding together. this shows that the heat penerated the metal enough to not only "weld" then together but also fuse them somewhat where the rod cant reach. when u get a concave weld it means that the heat to thickness was incorrect and u are heating up the metal too much. Not enough heat in the weld results in a bubble looking weld. this is basically just the physical weld holding it together. this is the weakest and worst thing to have. if ur bike was made by a reputable company probably 9/10 of them use machine tig welders which will do a perfect weld as long as there are no problems with the metal.
basically, judging by the quality of the welds on that frame, u probably would be better off building urself a wooden frame with screws and glue. might last longer.
cant really tell because it is painted, judging from the bubble like shape of the welds on the head-tube it looks like it is mig welded.
the way to tell a strong well done weld is that is is for the most part flat or at a 45 degree angle with the 2 peices it is holding together. this shows that the heat penerated the metal enough to not only "weld" then together but also fuse them somewhat where the rod cant reach. when u get a concave weld it means that the heat to thickness was incorrect and u are heating up the metal too much. Not enough heat in the weld results in a bubble looking weld. this is basically just the physical weld holding it together. this is the weakest and worst thing to have. if ur bike was made by a reputable company probably 9/10 of them use machine tig welders which will do a perfect weld as long as there are no problems with the metal.
basically, judging by the quality of the welds on that frame, u probably would be better off building urself a wooden frame with screws and glue. might last longer.
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