135mm rear wheel build advice
05-04-24, 11:12 AM
#26
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Why put such nice components on an old hybrid frame? You can buy a nice older road frame for less than $100. Isn't the BB on that 135mm hybrid 73mm rather than road 68mm? Why not use a classic Deore 8 speed hub?
The aesthetics and economics of this project make no sense to me.
The aesthetics and economics of this project make no sense to me.
05-04-24, 12:27 PM
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The chainline and wheel dishing will dictate the side on which the spacers are added. In my experience, spacers are almost always added on the non-drive side, but yours may vary.
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Richard C. Moeur, PE - Phoenix AZ, USA
https://www.richardcmoeur.com/bikestuf.html
Richard C. Moeur, PE - Phoenix AZ, USA
https://www.richardcmoeur.com/bikestuf.html
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05-04-24, 12:54 PM
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05-04-24, 01:04 PM
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If it were me, I'd try to source some MTB hubs or just live with 130mm hub that's squeezed in.
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05-04-24, 02:15 PM
#30
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Why put such nice components on an old hybrid frame? You can buy a nice older road frame for less than $100. Isn't the BB on that 135mm hybrid 73mm rather than road 68mm? Why not use a classic Deore 8 speed hub?
The aesthetics and economics of this project make no sense to me.
The aesthetics and economics of this project make no sense to me.
05-04-24, 02:18 PM
#31
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05-04-24, 04:13 PM
#32
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Why no just use that cheap Novatec hub I linked to. The whole wheel would only cost 100 Euro. I did a search online for forum comments and that hub seems to be fine.
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05-04-24, 05:12 PM
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They weren't. But neither was 135mm rear spacing, and those two go together. It was a change to add 2.5mm to the chainline by widening BB and hub by 5mm (73/135). If the BB is 68, the dropouts should be 130. So the OP might consider whether this should be 135 or someone spread it.
That's cool, but why pair it with such pricey hubs if they don't even have the right specs? It isn't like superlight wheels are going to make up for the relatively heavy frame and fork.
I would suggest either going with less swanky wheelset, or coldsetting the frame to 130 so these super nice wheels are useful in other bikes. Going down to 130 is no more difficult than spreading from 126 to 130.
I have nice old road frames. But most of them only take 25mm tires. If you want to run 32 or even wider gravel tires (like I do) you‘re better off with a hybrid frame. That‘s why. Makes sense to me, since I had old components left and did not want to spend 1000$+ on a modern steel gravel frame when I had this nice old frame with enough tire clearance and perfect geometry for me.
I would suggest either going with less swanky wheelset, or coldsetting the frame to 130 so these super nice wheels are useful in other bikes. Going down to 130 is no more difficult than spreading from 126 to 130.
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05-04-24, 07:07 PM
#34
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They weren't. But neither was 135mm rear spacing, and those two go together. It was a change to add 2.5mm to the chainline by widening BB and hub by 5mm (73/135). If the BB is 68, the dropouts should be 130. So the OP might consider whether this should be 135 or someone spread it.
ETA: Some companies stuck with 68mm BBs for a long time. I recall my 1996 Mongoose IBOC-SX had 135 rear and 68mm BB. Of course this was still in the square taper BB era and BB shell width didn't have much to do with chain line, that was controlled by BB spindle width. A 73mm BB shell does give builders a hair more room to provide a couple more mm tire clearance without bending chainstays as much and allows them to brag about a stiffer BB cluster as well
Last edited by LesterOfPuppets; 05-04-24 at 07:37 PM.
05-04-24, 07:51 PM
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Wild. I kinda figured most MTB cassette rear wheels were 135. Pretty sure my 1991 MB-3 and 1992 Bianchi Grizzly have 135 rear ends and 68mm BBs. I'm gonna have to measure next time I get a chance.
ETA: Some companies stuck with 68mm BBs for a long time. I recall my 1996 Mongoose IBOC-SX had 135 rear and 68mm BB. Of course this was still in the square taper BB era and BB shell width didn't have much to do with chain line, that was controlled by BB spindle width. A 73mm BB shell does give builders a hair more room to provide a couple more mm tire clearance without bending chainstays as much and allows them to brag about a stiffer BB cluster as well
ETA: Some companies stuck with 68mm BBs for a long time. I recall my 1996 Mongoose IBOC-SX had 135 rear and 68mm BB. Of course this was still in the square taper BB era and BB shell width didn't have much to do with chain line, that was controlled by BB spindle width. A 73mm BB shell does give builders a hair more room to provide a couple more mm tire clearance without bending chainstays as much and allows them to brag about a stiffer BB cluster as well
05-04-24, 09:01 PM
#36
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05-04-24, 11:13 PM
#37
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They weren't. But neither was 135mm rear spacing, and those two go together. It was a change to add 2.5mm to the chainline by widening BB and hub by 5mm (73/135). If the BB is 68, the dropouts should be 130. So the OP might consider whether this should be 135 or someone spread it.
That's cool, but why pair it with such pricey hubs if they don't even have the right specs? It isn't like superlight wheels are going to make up for the relatively heavy frame and fork.
I would suggest either going with less swanky wheelset, or coldsetting the frame to 130 so these super nice wheels are useful in other bikes. Going down to 130 is no more difficult than spreading from 126 to 130.
That's cool, but why pair it with such pricey hubs if they don't even have the right specs? It isn't like superlight wheels are going to make up for the relatively heavy frame and fork.
I would suggest either going with less swanky wheelset, or coldsetting the frame to 130 so these super nice wheels are useful in other bikes. Going down to 130 is no more difficult than spreading from 126 to 130.
I will either go cheap or cold setting.
05-04-24, 11:20 PM
#38
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https://a.aliexpress.com/_EyJC0q3 - obviously you can use DT Swiss replacement parts as well. Not an Aliexpress guy, though…
05-05-24, 12:06 AM
#39
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you‘re right. Unfortunately they are 32h - bit much for my taste. I was also looking at this 45$ hub (China DT Clone), some people built with it…but hard to find opinions:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EyJC0q3 - obviously you can use DT Swiss replacement parts as well. Not an Aliexpress guy, though…
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EyJC0q3 - obviously you can use DT Swiss replacement parts as well. Not an Aliexpress guy, though…
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05-05-24, 07:46 AM
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Now: For a build (old steel frame turned to fast road bike, see here), I need a 135mm rear wheel (QR / rim brake, 11s road HG, light) which is not that easy to find.
I‘m currently using a Mavic Aksium wheelset (130mm) and just squeeze the dropouts together. But as I really like that bike and ride it a lot (more than my modern road bike currently), I am looking for a more permanent solution that make taking out/putting in the wheel easier and give me more peace of mind while riding fast - on a non squeezed frame.
I‘m currently using a Mavic Aksium wheelset (130mm) and just squeeze the dropouts together. But as I really like that bike and ride it a lot (more than my modern road bike currently), I am looking for a more permanent solution that make taking out/putting in the wheel easier and give me more peace of mind while riding fast - on a non squeezed frame.
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